Question on the Rollenlager chain tensioner- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Question on the Rollenlager chain tensioner

    The back story. I originally owned the cannondale trail sl 29 SS. https://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gea...peed-14-48208/

    Couple weeks ago I cracked the frame. Cannondale no longer makes that frame and offers no other SS frame as a option. My only choices were 20% off any new cannondale bike purchase or their alloy F-Si frame which I'd have to run some type of chain tension to make it work.

    https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bi...c-cc796c18ef43

    I learned its not worth buying new bikes with cheap components cause I either don't like them and replace them, or break them and have to replace them anyways. So since I don't have the funds right now to buy a new bike from them with a better components package to start with, I should take them on the new frame instead.

    Doing some researching I ended up deciding on the Rennen Rollenlager tensioner. My only concern is will it work with this frame or will it need to be modified? Has anyone run one on this frame or close to it? My ratio I will be using is 18/34. The wheels are the original wheels from the SS cannondale.

    I've seen some people have bent the bracket to get better alignment if needed or use spacers to move the roller a little. Anyone know the size of the bolt they use to mount it to the derailleur and the bolt used for the roller? Meaning thread type,pitch, std / metric? I ordered it today but don't have it in my hand to know yet. I may want to replace the big ugly bolt that bolts to the derailleur hanger with a allen bolt. Also like to know what size roller bolt they use in case I need to change it and if I can get it locally.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    It looks like a viable option. The only downside might be needing a wrench, or hex key if you flat the rear. I'm running a Soulcraft Convert which is no longer in production. They do pop up occasionally on Ebay. The Soulcraft uses and indexing pin to hold it into position and swings out of the way to drop your rear wheel out.
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    It looks like a viable option. The only downside might be needing a wrench, or hex key if you flat the rear. I'm running a Soulcraft Convert which is no longer in production. They do pop up occasionally on Ebay. The Soulcraft uses and indexing pin to hold it into position and swings out of the way to drop your rear wheel out.
    I agree with the wrench thing. Hence why I'm looking to replace it lol. After starting this thread I emailed Rennen asking about the bolt size. They responded back fast. Its 10mm-1.0x16mm for anyone else interested. I'm going to find a button head allen key one or any head that will take a allen key. For the looks and for being able to use my parks travel allen key set if I'm in a jam in the woods.

    Only bad news is they ran out and have to make more, so it looks like I'll be waiting around two weeks before I get it. Sounded like I'll be waiting a little for the frame to come anyways.

    I was thinking of the convert, but heard they are out of stock (redesigning) and heard some had problems. So I figured I'd give this one a try.

  4. #4
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    THe F-si 3 frame you linked has a BB30 bottom bracket. You could convert to an eccentric bb with an adapter. Keeps it super clean and adjustable.

  5. #5
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    I ran a Rollenlager on a carbon F29 years ago, it did require a little grinding to fit around the dropout but it was not difficult to do.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pharm View Post
    THe F-si 3 frame you linked has a BB30 bottom bracket. You could convert to an eccentric bb with an adapter. Keeps it super clean and adjustable.
    I currently have a Bushnell EBB. Their website said no with a BB30 Eccentric bottom bracket for bb30

    I'm assuming you mean another type? But as you'll read below, it may not be that frame anyways.


    I should have wrote I'm "assuming" lol that's what I'm getting. My LBS said they were getting a alloy FS-I frame. The owner couldn't find it on their site when I asked to see it and asked cannondale on the phone were it was on the website. The rep said its not on there site yet. Couple of nights later I was home and tried doing a search and somehow found that link I posted. Figured that's what I'm getting. The part that does confuse me is I was under the impression the frame is new and they didn't even have the frames ready to ship yet. But the frame I linked to seems to have been available for a while. So I'm really not positive what frame I'm getting.

    I know I was told I would need a bb adopter to make my cranks work on the new frame. So I'd assume the LBS guy knows what bb it will be. I replaced the original cranks and EBB on the SS before I broke the frame. My cranks currently are Race Face Turbine 30 Cranks I believe with a Bushnell EBB.I know the EBB I wont be using and will need to sell. He said I can swap my rigid Fatty fork over with a new head set which I will. The last thing was the chain tensioner I was told I would need.

    Sorry if this was confusing for some to read. I don't know all the lingo yet and the names of all this stuff. I'm making a effort now to better understand everything since I really got into riding now.

    I'll put photos up of how everything went when I get everything in. I'm going to do the parts swap myself at the bike shop with the owners guidance as needed.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by driver bob View Post
    I ran a Rollenlager on a carbon F29 years ago, it did require a little grinding to fit around the dropout but it was not difficult to do.
    Thanks for the info

  8. #8
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    why not just go with the shimano alfine tensioner? works just like a derailleur minus the shifting part. lots of adjustment for chain length and cheap. like $25 on amazon. Wheel changes are also just as easy as with a derailleur.

    https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CT-S500L-Alfine-Vertical-Tensioner/dp/B001GSKOSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533850215&sr=8-1&keywords=CT-s500



  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    why not just go with the shimano alfine tensioner? works just like a derailleur minus the shifting part. lots of adjustment for chain length and cheap. like $25 on amazon. Wheel changes are also just as easy as with a derailleur.

    https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CT-S500L-Alfine-Vertical-Tensioner/dp/B001GSKOSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533850215&sr=8-1&keywords=CT-s500


    Its hard enough for me to except I need a chain tensioner now lol. That thing I wouldn't use if it was free, just my opinion. When I started SS'ing I fell in love with the simplicity and more importantly the absolute silence of the bike. Just hearing the wind threw my face and the sound of my tires contacting the outdoors was bliss. That thing looks like a noise maker and I'm sure I'd feel the drag. Not so much that I care about loosing a little power but I definitely grown to love feeling directly connected to the bike too. I'd also probably have people doing a double look till they figure it's a single before I get the SS nod I've grown to enjoy getting from the geared community lol.

    I've been riding my Santa Cruz Heckler since this bike broke and I miss SS'ing a lot, its driving me nuts waiting. SS'ing has made me care less about gears and suspension of any kind and those were the things I loved most when I started riding lol.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoneWolf8o View Post
    I currently have a Bushnell EBB. Their website said no with a BB30 Eccentric bottom bracket for bb30

    I'm assuming you mean another type? But as you'll read below, it may not be that frame anyways.
    Yep, different kind of EBB adapter. Here is the Wheels Manufacturing version that I have seen. Maybe there are others. You will need a different crankset with a smaller diameter spindle for this BB. No personal experience, but reports I've heard on this forum were good

    From the notes there are some frames that it isn't compatible with so I guess it's wait-and-see on the frame anyways

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn View Post
    Yep, different kind of EBB adapter. Here is the Wheels Manufacturing version that I have seen. Maybe there are others. You will need a different crankset with a smaller diameter spindle for this BB. No personal experience, but reports I've heard on this forum were good

    From the notes there are some frames that it isn't compatible with so I guess it's wait-and-see on the frame anyways
    Here is another option Origin8 for half the price. I don't have any experience with these. IT seems like your old cranks are square taper...

  12. #12
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    Was finally done two weeks ago. Took longer since a new rear brake mount had to be ordered after getting everything in and also a new rear brake line since a longer one was needed.

    As far as the Rollenlager mount I have to say I was bummed out over it. Part of me doesn't blame the company but the fact the bike industry has no fitment standards. As you can see in the photos the bottom slot was completely off from the derailleur hole. I had to file a lot off the bottom just so the bolt would screw in. I also has to bend the tensioner arm to get proper alignment. As is it would have hit the spokes. I also had to file the back of the rollenlager plate and replace one of the cannondale derailleur screws with a flat one so it would mount flush and have range of motion. These complaints I don't feel are necessarily rollenlagers fault since different manufactures are doing things differently. But I did find it highly annoying I had to bend and file a $50 part just to make it work.

    Things I didn't like about it that could be controlled on rollenlagers part was the machining. The arm was the only nicely crafted part (even though that had to be modified in my case). The rubber wheel was offset and made for tighter and looser spots in the chain. Also whoever did the machining on the rubber wheel spacers should be fired. Very sloppy and looked like they weren't made in a machine shop at all. The tension bolt should have come with a allen bolt like I installed. My camelback multi-tool has that size so it works great if I need to service it in the field. The bolt they give you is ugly and who wants to carry a wrench with them.

    As far as the bike, I'm happy to say it handles sooooo much better for me. Which made spending the money to get my fork powder coated to match the new frame worth it. Didn't realize cannondale replacement frames have to be "team colors". Luckily I just had to remove some stickers on my wheels lol and my seat.

    I'm upset that I had to give up my 18/34 gearing though and go to 20/34 to be able to adjust the chain properly. I didn't feel like running a half link and the headaches that come along with it.

    When I get some money together I want to make this a geared bike and get a real dedicated single speed bike down the road. Because with the rollenlager I don't feel its a true single speed now and its noisy and creeks now with the rollenlager. Have to really tighten down the QR now to get rid of the creaking but it comes back within 10-20 minutes of riding. Seeing how the rollenlager is mounted to a detachable derailleur (that's not even flat, let alone the screw issue I had) I don't see the creaking disappearing. Ill use as is till I have the funds to make it geared and eat the loss on the rollenlager since I wont be able to sell it.

    P.s. Added info for anyone interested. The old frame had a cup that went on the bottom of the headset (added about a inch). We didn't try to remove it and install it on the new frame. We also didn't cut the stem down on the fork when we re-installed it. Decided to add some spacers and bring the handle bars up more instead. It may also be the reason why I feel better on this frame now.
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  13. #13
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    Did it turn out having a BB30? If so, I'd go with an eccentric from Wheels Manufacturing. I'm running it on my Chinese carbon frame to run it SS and it works great. Not sure about the Origin8 one but they usually have pretty good gear too so that's definitely a cheaper option.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  14. #14
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    I believe it is the BB30.

    Has two bearing retaining clips and two bearings pressed directly in the frame hat rest against the clips with two outer seals. That's the BB30 right?

    I'll have to look into it as a option. Thanks for the idea.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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