Q-Rings on a SS?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    I Strava Hamburgers
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    Q-Rings on a SS?

    How does this work?

    Chain tensioners, or do they work on sliders?

    Anyone have some insight or pics to help a nubcakes out? Been thinking about going to a bigger gear for next year's season, but then I heard of these Q-Ringythingys and they seem to be made of unicorns and rainbows.

  2. #2
    CB2
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    Jam Econo
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    A friend of mine runs them and he loves them. He doesn't use any kind of tensioner and hasn't had a problem with dropping chains. His only issue with them is they are expensive.

  3. #3
    Fat & Single
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    I had a 33t fitted to my SS for nearly 1 year, the chain goes slightly looser when the ovalization is horizontal then tighter when verticle.Set you chain up in the verticle position and you will not have any problems.... do they work ? maybe, i have got rid of mine for a HBC ring and dont notice any difference.

    They will work on any setup.
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  4. #4
    Gigantic Hawk
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    I have the 34t Rotor ring on my Nimble. It was great for awhile, but I miss the ground clearance. It's hard to go all out when I'm slightly concerned about wrecking a $130 chainring. I did notice a benefit when hill climbing, and a chain tensioner is not needed.

  5. #5
    PSYCHOLUST
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    I ran the 34T SS version of the ROTOR ring last season and LOVE it.... Just installed a new one as that one is completely worn out..... Yup, it's expensive, but we all spend alot of cash for lighter/faster stuff so whats another $130?

  6. #6
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    Bike snob but new to SS. 2 years ago. Endurance racer. No issues running it. Went with. 32 round for one event PC P2P felt harder on climbs
    Than the 33. I don't know but it seemed to get me over the top on the pedal stroke. I run position 2 and did not like position 3. Expensive.

  7. #7
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    Funny you just made this post...just thinking about my Q-Ring.

    Most of the trails i ride in southern new england don't have any long steady climbs, but plenty of short steep ones. On my old singlespeed i was running 32/18 gearing with a traditional chainring and while i could clear all the steeps i wanted to spin a bit more instead of slowly mashing up. i was contemplating going to 32/19. unfortunately that bike broke and i found a used singlespeed set up with a Q-Ring by chance. it was setup 34/18 with the q-ring. i knew that it was geared to high and i would have problems with the steeps, but rode the bike anyway before swapping gears. While the steeps weren't any easier, they definitely weren't any more difficult. more flat ground speed and speed out of the corners was a nice bonus. I'm sold.

    I haven't had a problem with chain tension and if you look at the way its setup, when your pedals are at 9 and 3 (clearing an obstacle) the "low" spot of the ring is towards the ground. this effectively makes the chainring roughly the same size as a 32t so it doesn't effect ground clearance too much.

  8. #8
    Dive Bomber
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    I am thinking to use ordinary shimano oval / biopace chainring because mostly I ride uphill, do I need a tensioner?

    Is there any different between biopace and Q-Ring?
    Last edited by jackspade; 11-24-2011 at 03:41 AM.

  9. #9
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    IIRC biospace and q-ring are the exact opposite. As in, oval in opposing directions.

  10. #10
    Beer is my spirit animal
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    Yeah, talking with one of the sales reps for Rotor at Interbike, he shuddered at the mention of Biopace. Two very different creatures. And honestly, based on his sales pitch, I would try one if I had the money to spend.

  11. #11
    Dive Bomber
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    Well, I think I'll try the biopace as soon as I get the crank arm. I have both normal and biopace I'll try which one is better for climb. Last time I use oval on my roadbike 38T biopace and 48T normal is 15 years ago so kinda forget how it feels.

    Even my normal chainring and crank is getting ovaled, so the chain tension is varies LOL.

  12. #12
    Gigantic Hawk
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    The biopace will make climbing more difficult.

  13. #13
    Dive Bomber
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    The biopace will make climbing more difficult.
    I'll try to experiment by rotating the chainring, changing the furthest/nearest spot versus crankarm position. Just maybe it would work and make climbing easier.


  14. #14
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    I love my Q-Ring. Highly recommended. I have dropped a chain a few times when the ebb was not tensioned correctly. Ride it more then once before you settle on your opinion of it.

  15. #15
    I Strava Hamburgers
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    Hrm.. I really don't have an option to "test" a $100 ring around here....

    Thanks for all the replies!

  16. #16
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    I have a lightly used 34T Rotor Q-ring (SS version) that I would be willing to sell for $80 plus shipping if anyone is interested? For SS, these things are great.

    P.S.- I also have a Rotor 3D Crankset for sale too!
    Last edited by Ordinarybikes; 11-25-2011 at 12:42 PM.

  17. #17
    www.bigrobracing.co.uk
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    They work just fine on a SS as the total diameter stays constant, so the chain tension stays constant, it's just the effective radius that changes to help smooth out the pedal stroke.

    Two friends have them on "magic ratio" singlespeeds (the most sensitive to chain tension) and they work just fine, so I have seen the proof in action, I'm not sure I'd have believed it if I hadn't seen it! ;-)

  18. #18
    Dirty South Underdog
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    I used one for a while. I found that it was great in "near spin-out" situations in that I could maintain a high cadence for slightly less effort. However, I tended to spin my rear wheel more often when standing and climbing. Also, the large part of the chainring didn't clear my chainstay with the EBB in the rear half of its rotation... I broke a chain during a race and had to DNF because I faced destroying my frame if I removed a chain link. So, soon after, I took the Q Ring off.
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