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Thread: Q factor

  1. #1
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    Q factor

    especially for SS, where you have options on chainlines and BB spindle lengths, and spinning and mashing has to be sustained for long periods, do you consider Q factor when picking your cranks to dial in your ride?

  2. #2
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    I don't.

  3. #3
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    pardon my ignorance, but what is Q factor?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cygnus View Post
    do you consider Q factor when picking your cranks to dial in your ride?
    Absolutely -- it drives my crank, bottom bracket, and even frame purchases. I ended up with a custom mtb SS frame for precisely that reason -- couldn't get a frame that would allow use of a low Q-factor crank, so had it made. I actually gave the frame maker the crank and bottom bracket so that there would be no questions when it was all said and done. For some people Q-factor doesn't matter, but it makes all the difference for me.
    "The plural of anecdote is not data." -- Attributed to various people in a variety of forms, but always worth remembering...

  5. #5
    AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by westcoaster View Post
    pardon my ignorance, but what is Q factor?



    A rudimentary explanation would be how far apart your pedals are.

  6. #6
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    Absolutely, for me the narrower the better, but some people need wider. If I run cranks with too wide of a Q-Factor my knee get weird. I'm actually wearing grooves into my XTR cranks from shoe rub.

  7. #7
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    I never realize how important Q factor is after I change varieties spindles length. I like it narrow and too wide makes you hard to turn bad pedal clearance especially on singletrack.

    The worst is I use 68mm BB on 73mm BB shell, it is uneven/off center the right crank is further 4mm compare to the left side. It's kinda annoying but with adaptation I can still live with it and smokes some gears but If I ride my other bike I need to adapt again - it's only took 15 minutes to adapt though.

    My other bike is normal so I don't need adaptation, feels alright all the time.

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