problems due to too high chain tension?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    295

    problems due to too high chain tension?

    i'm sure this has come up before but i didn't see it in FAQ's and couldn't put my finger on it elsewhere but i'm curious what problems arise from keeping chain tension too high. I set me EBB in the full forward position and the tension is just a little too loose, just barely. So then i dropped one more link, swung the EBB to the full back position and now the tension is t.i.g.h.t. i can get a little play out of it in the loosest spot but in the tightest it's super firm. if i ride it this way, what will go wrong?

  2. #2
    SSOD
    Reputation: Crosstown Stew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    826
    i like about a 1" vertical movement in my chain. too tight a chain will add resistance to your pedals causing the chain to not freewheel smoothly. It will wear bearings faster. What kind of ebb are you using? You should have more adjustibility than that imo, unless its a bb30 adapter, then you may need a 1/2 link.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    861
    Quote Originally Posted by head View Post
    i'm sure this has come up before but i didn't see it in FAQ's and couldn't put my finger on it elsewhere but i'm curious what problems arise from keeping chain tension too high. I set me EBB in the full forward position and the tension is just a little too loose, just barely. So then i dropped one more link, swung the EBB to the full back position and now the tension is t.i.g.h.t. i can get a little play out of it in the loosest spot but in the tightest it's super firm. if i ride it this way, what will go wrong?
    It will likely be fine although it puts a little more stress on your bottom bracket and will increase wear on the chain, cog, and ring. After around a hundred miles it should wear to the point that it is not so tight.

    If it is very tight you might want to find a chain that is slightly more worn so you can splice together a chain that has a little more slop in it. You can use four segments of chain with two segements from your new chain and two segments from an older chain to make a chain that is slightly longer then later when it has worn you can replace the segments that are from the old chain and in doing so you can in theory manage the tight loose and chain wear by replacing the worn segments of the chain with new segments each time the chain gets loose rather then moving the EBB. Using this technique you may be able to "magic gear" in the far back on the EBB and this is good because in doing so the EBB can never slip to loose tension.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    295
    The EBB is a Carver, which i like just fine and don't think is the problem. It seems to me as the chain wears i need to adjust the ebb every few months to keep good tension. I like to start with it "snug" but not tight in order to maximize time between adjustments. Sometimes if i let it go too long between adjustments, the chain will let me know by derailing and causing seriously painful knee to bar/stem impact. When my eyes water from that pain i know it's time to adjust my EBB. last week i was given the signal by my left knee to adjust the EBB so i did and that's when i realized i had almost no room left to adjust forward. I could get the chain a tad tighter than it was but i considered the difference to be insignificant. i also knew it was such an incremental increase in tension that i'd be slamming my knee into the bar again in a couple of weeks. So that's when i dropped a link and swung to the full back position.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    861
    Make sure to check your chain wear. If you are removing a link it could be that the chain is beyond the recommended wear limit. The problem with riding a chain beyond the wear limit is that once the chain becomes longer due to wear the result is that the links hit the teeth of the cog outside of the proper place in the valley that exists between the teeth. The worn chain will damage the teeth of the cog and ring to the point that later when you put a new chain on the system will creak and have slop.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saul Lumikko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,801
    Looks like you're between a rock and a hard place with your current drivetrain. Too tight destroys bearings and causes unwanted resistance, but you don't want a sloppy chain or lack of adjustment range, either.

    Check out magic gear calculators to see if there's another chainring/cog combination that would change your effective chainstay length ever so slightly, so you'd be in a better spot of EBB adjustment when it comes to tension adjustment.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    295
    Fact is all was good for months with just minor adjustments. maybe this is a sign that my chain is too far gone as febikes noted. i haven't measured it yet but sure sounds like good reasoning.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-17-2015, 08:52 AM
  2. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-10-2013, 06:58 AM
  3. Best Single Speed Chain Tension / Chain Guide
    By bank5 in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-24-2013, 07:16 AM
  4. How do get such high tension in your spokes?
    By Godlikedog in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 05-23-2013, 02:45 PM
  5. problems with chain tension with chain ring.
    By Rad Rider 415 in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-14-2011, 08:34 PM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.