A poor man's H-bars : 9,20- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    A poor man's H-bars : 9,20

    Check these out. More like "M" bars, really.

    A buddy of mine uses and likes them, on two of his bikes.

    Used on trekking bikes for many years already.
    Alu, 61cm/24" wide (2" less than Jones', but better than most flats), a bit of rise and perhaps even some reach built-in. 9,20 or $11,60 , if you can get them. In Europe, www.roseversand.de sells them, as does any citybike shop.

    These just might do the trick for women and skinny racer types, or those that don't mind narrowish bars, or have a longish bike to begin with. Real racers may even prefer to use the thing inverted, negative rise, drop, droopy, or whatever that would be called. With these, that may well give it a bit of a bike-messenger-weird-bar-setup-look, rather than just plain ugly. whichever, you can't complain for 9,20 or comfort.

    For *cough* gearie bikes it might work with twist shifters a bit better than Jones', lacking the weld. It does lack the extentions of course. I wonder how barends, cleverly positioned on the bend, would look on there as a poor man's substitute? Bad, I'm sure, but it just might work.
    I've got a steel titec 140mm stem that no-one seems to want to trade me anything for, so I might as well bring my 28/26" ugly bike commuter to the next level while improving comfort some more. For this bike, higher bars are better so the built-in rise is very welcome, I've got a low riser Halfords POC on there now, very moto already.
    From the looks of, not far off Jones' magical 45 bars, at least 40 on these, I'd say.



    And used on a bike, it can look like this : (please excuse gearie content)
    Pic courtesy of JEA.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki
    Check these out. More like "M" bars, really.

    A buddy of mine uses and likes them, on two of his bikes.

    Used on trekking bikes for many years already.
    Alu, 61cm/24" wide (2" less than Jones', but better than most flats), a bit of rise and perhaps even some reach built-in. 9,20 or $11,60 , if you can get them. In Europe, www.roseversand.de sells them, as does any citybike shop.

    These just might do the trick for women and skinny racer types, or those that don't mind narrowish bars, or have a longish bike to begin with. Real racers may even prefer to use the thing inverted, negative rise, drop, droopy, or whatever that would be called. With these, that may well give it a bit of a bike-messenger-weird-bar-setup-look, rather than just plain ugly. whichever, you can't complain for 9,20 or comfort.

    For *cough* gearie bikes it might work with twist shifters a bit better than Jones', lacking the weld. It does lack the extentions of course. I wonder how barends, cleverly positioned on the bend, would look on there as a poor man's substitute? Bad, I'm sure, but it just might work.
    I've got a steel titec 140mm stem that no-one seems to want to trade me anything for, so I might as well bring my 28/26" ugly bike commuter to the next level while improving comfort some more. For this bike, higher bars are better so the built-in rise is very welcome, I've got a low riser Halfords POC on there now, very moto already.
    From the looks of, not far off Jones' magical 45 bars, at least 40 on these, I'd say.
    The On*One Mary bar is even better than these. Hoping Brant can show us the samples soon
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  3. #3
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    I've seen something from him like that indeed, and it looked promising. Love to have the production version of that.

    If Jones would somehow do a weightweenie, more affordable alu version of his H-bar design, I'd buy a family pack. He introduced the age-old 40-50 grip angle to non-riser-non-drop bar mountainbikes, at least for me. Good bike karma will come upon them who buy his bars from him.

    For the time being, non of the two (Jones says at some point he will do a steel bar , when he's got time...) will match the poor man's setup of the POS trekking bar on price, I'm affraid. Although perhaps not for my broad shoulders and my specific bikes, it may well be great for some people out there with any wrist/hand problems in combination with a tight budget. And it will raise or lower your hand position as suits you.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  4. #4
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    have run something like them before

    And bent them too easily while riding the fixie and doing some urban drops.

    They were fairly comfortable tho and would possibly last longer on a commuter type bike. I'd bend them again if I tried to ride trails with them. But then, I can be kinda hard on parts...


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  5. #5
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    Am I glad I said that it's a nice thing for smaller and lighter riders, especially on a Ss forum :-)
    I would get some for sure if I had any mtbikes with too long a reach, even if i put on 140mm stems. Should I re-use one of my old frames for my girlfriend for instance, it should suit her well.
    Just suggesting folks another option to be different AND get a more comfortable ride. The fact that the bars are marketed for trekking says wnough about how it will handle drops to flat by clydesdales :-)
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  6. #6
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    3 spd steel

    Hey all, been a while since I posted last but felt I should chime in. I have a set of steel 3 spd bars similar to the m bars. I'm runing them flipped on my cross-check fixie and i love them. There are definately enough hand positions for longer rides and the Width is OK at 580mm. They are also a good angle for trails though a little more flare would be nice. Heavy but indestructable and CHEAP
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  7. #7
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    Cool setup, looks hardcore! For a bit more flare, those alu bars might suit you well, while adding some width.
    How hard would it be to re-bend that steel beauty for some extra flare? Could it be done without comprimising strength? I'd say re-bend in 2 places, near the stem for a bit more reach (if you liek that), and at the most outer bend, for with and flare.
    Your hands seem to be pretty low, in between flat bars and the drops of drop bars?
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  8. #8
    Holy Chromoly!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki
    Cool setup, looks hardcore! For a bit more flare, those alu bars might suit you well, while adding some width.
    How hard would it be to re-bend that steel beauty for some extra flare? Could it be done without comprimising strength? I'd say re-bend in 2 places, near the stem for a bit more reach (if you liek that), and at the most outer bend, for with and flare.
    Your hands seem to be pretty low, in between flat bars and the drops of drop bars?

    Funny.. I bought the very bar Cloxxki is talking about.. uh... a year back or so... It was cheap and I thought by the looks of it, it might be something worth to try. The instant I got it, I mounted some XTR Sti's on them, to see whether my thoughts proved right. The gripping position does reassemble somewhat the position you have when you are in the drops of a WTB Dirt Drop bar.. Not quite the same, but you could not get closer with other bars....

    It never made it to a bike so far, also because of the hidious stemlength required...









    I have to admit, I actually like the looks sorta.. mounted up side down...
    No, I am not retro.... I am way ahead of my time...

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  9. #9
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    steel these bars

    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki
    Cool setup, looks hardcore! For a bit more flare, those alu bars might suit you well, while adding some width.
    How hard would it be to re-bend that steel beauty for some extra flare? Could it be done without comprimising strength? I'd say re-bend in 2 places, near the stem for a bit more reach (if you liek that), and at the most outer bend, for with and flare.
    Your hands seem to be pretty low, in between flat bars and the drops of drop bars?
    The setup works well there is a bit of drop to the bars, yeh bout 1/2 way between drops and flats. I think I can safely bend the bars they are really thick tubing and quite heavy. Just been too lazy to do it yet. =)
    - albert

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    The On*One Mary bar is even better than these. Hoping Brant can show us the samples soon
    I've read so much about these new On*One bars - there's a Midge and Mary, do I have the names right? I think I've seen pics of one, but are there pics of the other? Kinda bummed out that only a precious few have seen pics.

    Brant, who do I have to bang to get glimpse of these hyped bars?

    EDIT: I took another look through shiggy's pics. What bar is this back there? Is this that bar named Mary? And how does that compare to the Nitto North handlebar?
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    Last edited by SpinWheelz; 11-22-2004 at 11:35 AM.

  11. #11
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    Is that an Vitus or Alan in the background?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeroen

  12. #12
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    Mary Mary

    Quote Originally Posted by SpinWheelz
    EDIT: I took another look through shiggy's pics. What bar is this back there? Is this that bar named Mary? And how does that compare to the Nitto North handlebar?
    I think the one you're pointing to is the "Mungo". For info on Mary, Midge and Mungo try this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=54071

  13. #13
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    Thanks for clearing that up, Fab5Fixie.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by aosty
    Is that an Vitus or Alan in the background?

    That's an un-labbeled Alan indeed. Should have built it up by now for some evening roadtraining... but its still in the same spot as it was weeks back when I took this picture... I have to many projects running now....
    No, I am not retro.... I am way ahead of my time...

    "...though a lot of marijuana was smoked in the early days of mountain bike development, not all of the riders were potsmoking hippies... " Frank J. Berto

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  15. #15
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    Quicktime Flypast of the Mary Bar here:-

    http://www.on-one.co.uk/mary.mov

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected]
    Quicktime Flypast of the Mary Bar here:-

    http://www.on-one.co.uk/mary.mov
    SWEET! When do you expect to be selling 'em ?

  17. #17
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    should be here in about 2 months.

    price is expected to be 30 - about $55

  18. #18
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    Brant, could you perhaps share the dimension of the bar (overall width, rise)?

    Very nice shape indeed, looks rad, comfortable and practical. Easy way to make any MTB more comfortable. I like the uninterrupted straight ends, that might allow for many different brake lever and *cough* shifter setups.

    Now that Dutch XC racers are complaining about road bikes taking over XC (29" being allowed by UCI), a great opportunity to pizz them off by showing up to a race with yet another non-standard bike setup.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  19. #19
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    The grip section is just over 175mm long to give you lots of room for whatever levers and grips you fancy. You can even trim them from the back if you want.
    The centre-centre dimension across the ends is 645mm which is less than a conventional flat bar, but that's because the grip sections are angled at 45degs, rather than being 5-8degs... The actual "grip centre" position is very similar to a standard bar - that was the point of the design, but with a 45deg sweep rather than a flatter one.
    The bar sweeps forward 2in or so from the bar centre to allow you to run the same length stem you've got at the moment, and not need a stem swap. This lessens the torsional force going through the stem clamp, which we found was a problem on our non-swept-back samples (yeah fine, you can just fit a longer stem, but then the force that you exert on the bar can easily make the bar spin when doing drops and stuff, though this can be fixed OK with a good stem, careful installation and a bit of loctite, we didn't think it was a perfect scenario).
    The rise is 37.5mm - we could have done more, but there was enough bending and sweeping and curving going on and this is what came out right. Plus with 5in forks on lots of bikes now, having a HIGH rise is less important.
    They're made in 6061 for several reasons. Firstly it's a material that doesn't mind being bent all over the place. It's not as tough to bend as other materials either. And for the wall thickness to we wanted to get the stiffness we needed (we could have gone lighter, but didn't want them too flexy) the 6061 was plenty strong enough. The thicker wall also means it will usually bend before snapping. Which we like a lot.
    Finish is shot blasted to stress relieve, before anodising and lazer etching logos.
    I haven't got a final weight yet but I'd expect something around 350g.

    I'm convinced. Half the reason on-one exists is to make stuff for me to ride, and this has been a personal project and a half. The tooling costs for this project have been pretty awful - we found the other day we could have a full carbon frame mold done for not much more than this bar, and actually, we then realised we could have made them in carbon for a lot less tooling costs :-)

    Inspite of all that, the easy manufacturing that 6061 allows means we can pump them out for a killer price - well, I think £30 ($55ish) is a good price, no, but we've got to sell over 200 pairs before we make a penny because of the tooling cost. There are easier things to do :-)

    Ride is great. What I particularly like is the way you can tune your weight distribution and have a very adaptable bike position. With your hands a long way forward you can well set up to keep the front end down on steep climbs, mimicking a longer stem and narrower bar. But when the ground tips the other way, you can slide your hands backwards, to emulate a shorter stem and wider bar. That's the killer thing for me - the adaptability of the design.

    It's funny how it's evolved, and taken influences from moustache bars, jones bars, and "silly bars" some particularly odd U shaped welded bars I was running in around 1990 (sort of like tt cowhorns).

    I think bars will be a big development area over the next few years, as a multi-position bar works so well alongside long travel suspension.

    Enjoy!

  20. #20
    Sofa King We Todd Did
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    I've shared this with Brant and I'll say it here in public: mad props to Brant for being so inclusive and forthcoming in the development of his products, for being so responsive to requests and queries, and for making his customers (and customer-to-be) feel more than just nameless, faceless consumers. The world needs more Brant-like marketers, that's for sure.

    Now, in the past couple of weeks, I'd exchanged e-mails with Brant to see if he did indeed have something in the works that was close to what I was looking for in a new set of handlebars. The movie shows it. But in the meantime, while I'm waiting out the 2 months or so, I couldn't stand it anymore and had to go out and try out an idea I had for similar handlebars. I wanted moustache bars, but also wanted to try the 45-degree position the Jones bars offered.

    So, I went to the Bike Works shop in the Lower East Side of Manhattan (brilliant shop - it's practically a museum of bike antiquities!) and picked up a set of generic North handlebars. These are fashioned somewhat similarly to the Nitto North bars, but they're a) made of steel, I think, b) have close to a 45-degree sweep, and c) don't have as much of a rise as the Nitto North bars. In other words, exactly what I was looking to try out in the interim. In fact, they're practically identical to the pair that Cloxxi posted in his original post, except they're not black, they're chromed out.

    And here's what I did with them. Mounted them upside down do they drop instead of rise. Wrapped them with up with bar tape (my first time wrapping handlebars, so excuse the shoddy job). I placed the brake levers much higher up the bar on purpose. This gives me a bit more room to play with when I have my hands in the lowest position. The levers also give me something to wrap my fingers around when I move my hands upwards towards the apex of each side. The middle section curves downward slightly and is wide enough for me to place my hands there, too. So I've got quite a few hand positions to work with, which was what I was after in addition to the 45-degree basic hand position. Because of the drop, I had to resort to steeper stem, which meant that I had to pull out my heavy crap Bontrager stem. It's a fairly short stem, about 90mm with a steep rise - this brings you basic 45-degree hand position closer to the body but also allows me to reach the brake levers and middle sections without stretching too far out. This was the stem issue that Brant was addressing in his post.

    In any case, I got done wrapping and position the bars about an hour ago. Haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Not sure if I'll get a chance tomorrow, seeing my knees are still quite shot. If anyone's interested, I'll be happy to post a report after my first proper ride. Otherwise, thanks for putting up with me. Here are some pics...
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  21. #21
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    Two more pics, this time of the whole bike...
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  22. #22
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    Brant, with normal bars, I take you mean typical DH risers? Your Mary seems to offer about the same width as a 660mm Salsa, for the wrists even a bit more.
    And rise?? Come on, it's drop! Haha, to get my bars down on a 29" FS with 5" fork, the drop may come in handy. People will ask about thes ENO-NO brand, though.

    Very nice setup SpinWheelz, are those North bars regularly available, or just old stock? A magnet will tell you if it's steel :-)

    Next time you do a warp job, you could consider to put the levers where you want them first, and just wrap the tape over the levers' clamps to add a slightly more comfortable hand position right there.

    I just got a used 140mm Thomson to use with a set of H-bars, in stead of a 120mm Thomson with a 660mm/11 Salsa flat bar. With a Thomson, I would think things such as flex and stress are much less of an issue than with other XC stem.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  23. #23
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    These bars came out of a large bucket of used handlebars. The shop guys said they were used, but these were in perfect condition, still wrapped up and stuff. Paid a whopping $8 for them. I think they're pretty generic cruiser handlebars, nothing fancy.

    As for the wrapping, I did lock down the brake levers first before I wrapped the bar. I asked the shop guys about wrapping around the brake lever clamp the way you do road bikes and they said that it would be better to wrap the bar in sections like I did 'cause the clamp is somewhat thick and if I wrapped around it, it'll make an uncomfortable bulge in that section of the handlebar. So that's what I did.

  24. #24
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    Perhaps the bulge would be too much yes. Then, I now run a (crappy) double wrap on a flat and I'm getting used to the thicker grips. With just a single wrap over the levers it might not be too bad, but definately a challenging tapejob to pull off.
    I think tape that's thicker in the middle makes for nice single wrap jobs, but may have been the cause for my forst try at double wrap to fail miserably. Where I turned around after one wrap to the the second, it's hard to get leveled.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

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