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  1. #1
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    Please help me identify

    Hi there,

    This is one of my options for converting some old gear to a SS. Is there anything special I need to make the rear cog stable? Please note the thread at the end of the hub


    " width="549">


    also, when putting on a chainring or rear cog is there an "inside" side or an "outside" side? in other words, does it matter which way you put on the ring on?

    thanks,

    chs

  2. #2
    I'm just messing with you
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    You will need spacers between the cog and lock ring, if the cog's base isn't wide enough to fill the space tightly.

    That big washer looks weird on the end of the hub though - is it bigger than the freehub body?

    As far as I know there is not one way to put the rear cog on. I have a Surly with an offset base, so there one has the option of altering the chain line by flipping the cog over.

    With a singlespeed chainring, there's no inside/outside. I always put mine on so the tooth count marking faces outward.
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  3. #3
    Retro Grouch
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    What you have is a Hyperglide freehub that is Uniglide compatible. The only thing wrong is the washer that someone stuck on the end (probably because they didn't have a lockring). Remove the spacer and you will have a standard freehub configuration. The threads on the outside of freehub body was to make it backwards compatible with Uniglide that did not use a lockring. Since the body has a wide spine it is an early Hyperglide, and will be threaded for a lockring.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Please help me identify-k7hub-3-stylessm.jpg  

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by aka brad
    What you have is a Hyperglide freehub that is Uniglide compatible. The only thing wrong is the washer that someone stuck on the end (probably because they didn't have a lockring). Remove the spacer and you will have a standard freehub configuration. The threads on the outside of freehub body was to make it backwards compatible with Uniglide that did not use a lockring. Since the body has a wide spine it is an early Hyperglide, and will be threaded for a lockring.



    thank you very much. I am not sure I understand about the washer you mentioned. Shoould I remove the
    piece that is circled in red in the photo?

    " width="549">

    once I get the right chainline,do I grease the lockring and tighten it and I am good to
    go?

  5. #5
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    two lockrings?

    Since you are using a threaded lockring up against the spacers (threaded on the freehub- this is the Uniglide retention), you don't need that outer lockring at all (nor the little part you circled in red). FWIW- I think people earlier were remarking that there was a large washer- from what I can tell, that is your lockring (the hyperglide lockring).

    I may be off, as it's not the best picture, but this is what I think you have going on:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Please help me identify-screen-shot-2010-12-22-2.47.46-pm.jpg  


  6. #6
    I'm just messing with you
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    Yeah, with that different angle I see that's not a washer, it's a regular cassette lockring that threads into the inside threads.
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  7. #7
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    I showed my LBS this 2nd photo (granted it is not a great photo) and they said I was lucky I threaded the lockring on. They suggested using spacers on the outside of the cog and not the uniglide lockring. Might they be unaware of the features of this Hyperglide freehub that is Uniglide compatible, or am I totally confused????

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by -chs-
    Hi there,

    This is one of my options for converting some old gear to a SS. Is there anything special I need to make the rear cog stable? Please note the thread at the end of the hub


    " width="549">



    thanks,

    chs
    Okay there seems to be a lot going on here. First, how did you get from the first photo to the second? I would think you would have had to remove the outside "lockring" in order to install the spacers, cog and "inside lockring". Second, the outside "lockring" looks like no lockring I have ever seen. HG lockrings use 12 or 13T cog that the lockring butts up against. Further, the axle nut is on the outside of the lockring and there appears to be no cutout with interior slines for a lock ring tool to insert into and the axle nut appears to be nutted up against the lockring, meaning the freehub and axle would not be able to spin independent of each other without a great deal of friction; normally the axle nut would be under or behind the lockring.

    Quote Originally Posted by -chs-
    I showed my LBS this 2nd photo (granted it is not a great photo) and they said I was lucky I threaded the lockring on. They suggested using spacers on the outside of the cog and not the uniglide lockring. Might they be unaware of the features of this Hyperglide freehub that is Uniglide compatible, or am I totally confused????
    I believe what your LBS is saying is to remove the inside lockring (that is not a Uniglide lockring, it is a Bottom Bracket lockring, they are the same size and have the same threading; a Uniglide lockring is the same as a thin threaded track cog). Anyway, you need to remove whatever that is on the end of your freehub and get yourself a cassette (Hyperglide) lockring as below (I also advise also using the 12t cog which will help keep the spacers and cog tight). Using a (Hyperglide) lockring will allow you to space the cog farther out and will fix the problem of the axle nut being against the current lockring (or what ever that is)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Please help me identify-screen-shot-2010-12-22-2.47.46-pm.jpg  

    Please help me identify-k7hub-lockring.jpg  

    Last edited by aka brad; 12-22-2010 at 07:35 PM.
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  9. #9
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    first of all, thank you very much for your patience and feedback. i really appreciate it. I am excited to learn about maintenance, building and I figured there would be no better way than to take an old bike and make a singlespeed. Of course, I am in way over my head but with some luck and help, I will prevail.

    what I did to get from the 1st photo to the 2nd photo:

    With the help from a home made chainwhip, I used a Pedros cassette tool to loosen the lockring and then removed the cassette. After I removed the cassette, I replaced the lockring and the little washer that next to the lockring. I took the 1st photo.

    I disassembled the cassette and retrieved the various spacers that were between each cog. After putting on the 5 spacers, I slid the one of the cogs (20 teeth) over the hub.

    I was given a bunch of washers from my LBS and I put one on the outside of the Cog.
    Next I screwed on a lockring (uniglide lockring) , which was also given to me my LBS. I tightened it by hand and was waiting to research what tool I need to get it really tight. I replaced the original lockring (Hyperglide Lockring) and took the 2nd photo.

    Sorry, I hope that makes sense.

    chs

    here are 2 more photos:

    " width="549">

    " width="549">
    Last edited by -chs-; 12-22-2010 at 08:47 PM.

  10. #10
    one chain loop
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    no need for the hyperglide lockring. your setup will work but the question is, is it at the right chainline?
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by -chs-
    first of all, thank you very much for your patience and feedback. i really appreciate it. I am excited to learn about maintenance, building and I figured there would be no better way than to take an old bike and make a singlespeed. Of course, I am in way over my head but with some luck and help, I will prevail.

    what I did to get from the 1st photo to the 2nd photo:

    With the help from a home made chainwhip, I used a Pedros cassette tool to loosen the lockring and then removed the cassette. After I removed the cassette, I replaced the lockring and the little washer that next to the lockring. I took the 1st photo.

    I disassembled the cassette and retrieved the various spacers that were between each cog. After putting on the 5 spacers, I slid the one of the cogs (20 teeth) over the hub.

    I was given a bunch of washers from my LBS and I put one on the outside of the Cog.
    Next I screwed on a lockring (uniglide lockring) , which was also given to me my LBS. I tightened it by hand and was waiting to research what tool I need to get it really tight. I replaced the original lockring (Hyperglide Lockring) and took the 2nd photo.

    Sorry, I hope that makes sense.

    chs
    Perhaps I am wrong and it's just the angle of the photo. Could you take a photo of the freehub end so I can see how the lockring is attached and it's position relative to the axle nut? Otherwise I would disagree with fishcreek for the very reason he mentioned; I think you'll find for a good chain line you will need the cog out toward the end of the freehub body.
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  12. #12
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    I agree- Fishcreek is right that you CAN use the BB lockring on the uniglide threads and it will work just fine, but it really limits your options for adjusting chainline- especially using a cog out of a cassette, which are a little more prone to slippage and bending- you want to be sure your chain is straight. FWIW, you can get really cheap spacer kits for around or under $20- the spacers from the cassette will work, but you likely won't have enough to make up the gap.

  13. #13
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    I will take a photo later and post it so you can see how the lockring is attached.

    I ended up getting a spacer kit. I was able to replace the crankset, attach the rear cog and spaceers, get the chainline set, replace the chain ( made it too short so had to take everything off and put on a smaller rear cog). right now it is 38/17 but once I figure everything out, I will be purchasing a different rear cog and front chainring. and a 1/2 link. Today and tomorrow project is figuring out a chain tensioner from an old derailleur.

    pretty cool and only took me about 1.5 hours.


    thanks again for lessons.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by aka brad
    Perhaps I am wrong and it's just the angle of the photo. Could you take a photo of the freehub end so I can see how the lockring is attached and it's position relative to the axle nut? Otherwise I would disagree with fishcreek for the very reason he mentioned; I think you'll find for a good chain line you will need the cog out toward the end of the freehub body.

    hi

    here is the front view photo. It is without the lockring. sorry it is not better quality



    here are some more photos:




    This is all the original gear so the chain was (and is) a pile of rust. I will be working on cleaning it better.

    happy new year!

    chs

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