PAUL Chain Keeper?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    Rocket Boy
    Reputation: Arby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    272

    PAUL Chain Keeper?

    Hey folks:

    I'm thinking about running a 1X9 set up on my Cannondale F1. I'd run a 32T ring and am thinking about using Paul's Chain Keeper. Does anyone have anything positive or negative to say about this device?

    Here's a little blurb about it:
    https://www.twentysixinches.com/2010...g-chain-keeper

    I realize this is a singlespeed forum but I thought someone on here might have used one before.

    Thanks in advance,
    Arby

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    314
    It works well, I've got one, but it's a pain to set up so it doesn't rub. Once there, you're good to go and it works really well. I think you'll hear the same thing from others.

    I have another bike with the MRP 1.x and it rocks.

  3. #3
    Rocket Boy
    Reputation: Arby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by FKMTB07
    It works well, I've got one, but it's a pain to set up so it doesn't rub.
    Yeah that's what I was thinking. Especially running a 1X9. I suspect I may rub when in the little and big cogs in the back.

    Thanks,
    Arby

  4. #4
    Never Satisfied...
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    627
    I had a ***** of a time adjusting it for a 1x9....

    I ended up using a bash guard and N-Gear Jump stop for my 1x9.....

    Threw the Paul's on the SS just for shits and giggles...........

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nater's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,855
    A friend is running one on a Stumpjumper 29er hardtail. Because of the low clamp design, it's difficult to get it low enough to really work well because the clamp contacts the fat down tube. It works OK with some fiddling.

    If your DT isn't fat it'll work great.

    I've also heard that Paul is developing a high clamp version because of this.

  6. #6
    Out spokin'
    Reputation: Sparticus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Posts
    9,657
    Quote Originally Posted by Arby
    Yeah that's what I was thinking. Especially running a 1X9. I suspect I may rub when in the little and big cogs in the back.

    Thanks,
    Arby
    A riding buddy running 1x9 got one as soon as they came out and it rubbed at both extremes. I think he did some filing.

    Personally I have a couple bikes utilizing 1x8 drivetrains and I employ the Jump Stop + bash ring setup. It works. My 2.

    --Sparty
    disciplesofdirt.org

    We don't quit riding because we get old.
    We get old because we quit riding.

  7. #7
    Rocket Boy
    Reputation: Arby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by Nater
    A friend is running one on a Stumpjumper 29er hardtail. Because of the low clamp design, it's difficult to get it low enough to really work well because the clamp contacts the fat down tube. It works OK with some fiddling.

    If your DT isn't fat it'll work great.

    I've also heard that Paul is developing a high clamp version because of this.
    This is why I love mtbr.com. Thanks for the info!
    Arby

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    61
    Have one on my cross bike, set up 1X8. Agree with others that it is difficult to set up and the chain does rub, but could be due to the 8 speed chain.

    It does, though, work very well.

  9. #9
    The need for singlespeed
    Reputation: zaskaranddriver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    973
    I ran one on my 1x9 for about a month before going SS. A little fine tuning (about as much as one would do with a front der) and no rubbing. With a 32t CR you have to run it a bit high over the chain else it won't clear the crank spider (see pic). Maybe that's why I didn't get as much rubbing as the other guys who posted?...



    PS if you want mine PM me and we'll work out a deal.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: amishscum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    470
    Worked great on my Ventana El Toro with a 34T chainring - no rubbing whatsover after getting it dialed in. Looked clean and functioned perfectly.

    But... went to install on my new Ventana El Ciclon and the shock mount prevents it from getting low enough to work with a 34T. Had to go with the MRP 1.X.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tendon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    66
    Don't wast your money!!! I tried it on a one by nine and all it did was jam when the chain started bouncing. Went with a bash guard & N-Gear Jump Stop.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AndrewTO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,949
    Don't waste your money! part 2 .....

    Why is it that people feel the need to get this type of thing? I've run various 1x9 set ups (different cassette sizes) on HT and FS frames and have never needed to do this BECAUSE I adjusted the spring tension on the rear derailleur. If you remove the cage you should find a second hole to insert the spring into. Use it and you'll have greater spring tension which will help immensely. Give it a try .....

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=76

    *****Check "pic #7" in that link and you'll see what you're after.*****

    Fool proof, costs nothing (if you already have the tools of course) and it's a good learning experience to repair/overall your stuff.
    I ..... need ..... DIRT!!!!!

    ... and cookies. :D

  13. #13
    Never Satisfied...
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewTO
    Don't waste your money! part 2 .....

    Why is it that people feel the need to get this type of thing? I've run various 1x9 set ups (different cassette sizes) on HT and FS frames and have never needed to do this BECAUSE I adjusted the spring tension on the rear derailleur. If you remove the cage you should find a second hole to insert the spring into. Use it and you'll have greater spring tension which will help immensely. Give it a try .....

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=76

    *****Check "pic #7" in that link and you'll see what you're after.*****

    Fool proof, costs nothing (if you already have the tools of course) and it's a good learning experience to repair/overall your stuff.
    Interesting... I didn't know about this....

    Oh well, I went with a MRP 1X and it's been flawless.....

    Thanks for the info.....

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AndrewTO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,949
    Awww crap, I forgot my disclaimer .....

    Apologies to those using SRAM rear derailleurs. I do not know if they are capable of this "modification" or not. While I do own an X9 rear derailleur myself i've never had to take it apart. It's too new for that. Perhaps it's easily done by drilling an extra hole. So far, every Shimano XT and LX rear derailleur i've seen is capable of this easy task.

    Thank you.
    The Management
    I ..... need ..... DIRT!!!!!

    ... and cookies. :D

  15. #15
    Never Satisfied...
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewTO
    Awww crap, I forgot my disclaimer .....

    Apologies to those using SRAM rear derailleurs. I do not know if they are capable of this "modification" or not. While I do own an X9 rear derailleur myself i've never had to take it apart. It's too new for that. Perhaps it's easily done by drilling an extra hole. So far, every Shimano XT and LX rear derailleur i've seen is capable of this easy task.

    Thank you.
    The Management
    X-9 is what I'm runing so now I don't feel so bad.........

    I have tried the Paul's and the bash/N-gear.... But, the only thing "for me" that works 100% is the MRP 1X...........


  16. #16
    Long live long rides.
    Reputation: Life and Liberty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    266
    don't waste your money part 3...

    I love paul stuff, but this is silly. Use and old front derailleur, and adjust the limit screws to make it work. No cables, no anything needed.

    The real plus to this is that if you converted your bike, you already have one of these, AND it fits your bike.

    No, it's not the sexiest way to accomplish this, but it's really cheap and works well.

    Sorry Paul.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MWillis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewTO View Post
    Don't waste your money! part 2 .....

    Why is it that people feel the need to get this type of thing? I've run various 1x9 set ups (different cassette sizes) on HT and FS frames and have never needed to do this BECAUSE I adjusted the spring tension on the rear derailleur. If you remove the cage you should find a second hole to insert the spring into. Use it and you'll have greater spring tension which will help immensely. Give it a try .....

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=76

    *****Check "pic #7" in that link and you'll see what you're after.*****

    Fool proof, costs nothing (if you already have the tools of course) and it's a good learning experience to repair/overall your stuff.
    wont that push your pulley into your tallest rear cog? sepecially like a 36t rear cog?

    whoops... holy old thread batman!?

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.