Parts needed to convert to SS?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Parts needed to convert to SS?

    I've been thinking about converting my Chameleon to SS for a while now. The rear is 148 boost. I would get the 142 SS drop-outs and an SS rear hub but that's not in the cards right now. My rear hub already has a Shimano HG. I'm running an M8000 boost crank with a 32T Wolf Tooth chainring. I also have a 30T version if I want to make things easier.

    So all I would need to fully convert to SS is an SS cog, spacer kit, and a 9 speed chain correct? I assume a 9 speed chain works with the chainring?

    All I would need to do is remove the drivetrain, install the SS parts and chain, adjust spacers in the rear hub and/or crank spindle for clearance and chainline, adjust chain tension, and I should be good to go right?

    Thanks!
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  2. #2
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    I don't think you need the "singlespeed" dropouts. Aren't the regular ones that come with the bike adjustable? That's all that matters.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    I don't think you need the "singlespeed" dropouts. Aren't the regular ones that come with the bike adjustable? That's all that matters.
    Yes they are sliding. I was referring to the 142 SS dropouts and a matching 142 SS rear hub. Ya know, to show everyone I'm a serious singlespeeder hahaha.
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  4. #4
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    Sliding drops makes it so much easier. If you have an old cassette, tear it apart and use the spacers from it. Pick up a Surly cog, a chain and you should be set. I always use a SS specific chain. Their cheap and durable...not light but that's ok on a SS.

    That's the cheapest way I know to test the SS thing. If you like it, you have a killer cog and if you don't, you aren't out much and can reset the cog.

    I've run 32x19 for 10-ish years and works well for my area and riding style.

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  5. #5
    local trails rider
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    It might be useful to check what gear combinations give you a chain length that is about right for your chainstay length: http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by perttime View Post
    It might be useful to check what gear combinations give you a chain length that is about right for your chainstay length: http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php
    Highly recommend this ^.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the information! I can install a new 12S drivetrain and tune it pretty well. But something simple like converting to SS escapes me. Like, it can't be THAT simple right?
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  8. #8
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    If you have sliding drop outs you can tension the chain. So all you need are hub spacers and a cog if you have Shimano HG freehub.

    https://www.coloradocyclist.com/whee...hoCP5EQAvD_BwE

    I run an 8speed chain with absolute black narrow wide oval chainring. It is really simple. If you don't have adjust able dropouts you will need something to tension the chain. I know and ride with many singlespeeders. I don't know any on SS specific hubs. So they are not at all needed. You can run anything from a 3/32 single speed chain to 12 speed chain, but 8 speed are cheap and durable.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", 19' Vassago Optimus Ti SS 29", '19 Ibis Ripmo, XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Yes they are sliding. I was referring to the 142 SS dropouts and a matching 142 SS rear hub. Ya know, to show everyone I'm a serious singlespeeder hahaha.
    If you spend a good amount of money on that 142mm singlespeed hub, keep in mind that it will be "obsolete" in a few years, if not already. everything is moving to 148 and you'll need to use some janky spacers on any future frames. if you want to be hardcore, just get a 148 singlespeed hub and cut the derailer hanger off your frame.

    it seems likely that road/gravel type bikes are going to keep using 142mm hubs though.

  10. #10
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    So I usually have the drop outs maxed at full length since the bike feels better that way. On the Chameleon C, the dropouts are arced instead of straight. The shorter I have the dropouts and chainstays, the higher the rear and BB gets overall, among some other changes to geo. I've actually ridden the bike with the dropouts at minimal length and I hated how it handled. Bike felt higher and twitchier.

    Obviously, I'd like to keep the dropouts as long as possible while still maintaining proper chain tension. In a perfect world, the chain would be perfectly tensioned at max dropout length with the gearing of my choice. I figure I should go 32/20 or 30/20 to start. I have both 32 and 30 chain rings so I'll see what I like. Then maybe get more rear cogs to fine tune what I really like or can handle.

    Hopefully, I can get good chain tension with my dropouts being as long as possible to preserve the handling I've grown accustomed to.

    Generally speaking, what's the starting point for most people with their dropouts? Dead smack in the middle? 3/4 out? 1/4 out? All the way in? I believe the CS length can be adjusted from 415 to 430mm via the dropouts.
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  11. #11
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    Since whatever ratio I want to use has to be able to actually fit in the dropout, I'll start with the hub all of the way forward and get the chain as short as possible. With narrow-wide rings, sometimes this means having an extra link in the chain.

    Then I tension the chain and I'm happy that I have a ratio that fits my frame.

    Personally, with ~15mm of length adjustment I don't know if you'll get to be picky about where the hub lands. You can try using a magic gear calculator to get something that will fit with minimal adjustment but even those tend to be hit or miss in my experience.

  12. #12
    If you have to ask...
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    OK, given that the Chameleon has sliding dropouts, you have a crank with a ring on it that is a good size, the barest minimum you have to buy is... nothing.

    Ditch the shifter and derailleur. Pick which rear cog you want to use- I'd recommend starting with the 20.

    Slide the dropouts as far forward as you can. Wrap the chain around the cog you want and the chainring, then shorten the chain as much as you can to make that ratio work.

    Tension the chain by sliding the dropouts back again as far as the chain will allow.

    Ride.



    OK, your chainlink won't be perfect, but it'll be good enough, and OK, you'll have a big ugly gear cluster on there, but so what? This gets you out experiencing the SS thing.

    If you really dig it, save up for the Paul rear hub and the sweet custom wheel- or, just buy an SS cog kit and call it a done deal.
    It's 7:09 California time

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