Nut tuggers- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 23 of 23

Thread: Nut tuggers

  1. #1
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958

    Nut tuggers

    Trying to find some small nut tuggers to put on my bike. Rear drop outs the drop out boxed around it making it require fairly small/washer size nut tuggers.

    Can someone point me in the right direction? Ones similar to what are pictured in this video would probably work.

    <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XhWxFEN1b6k&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XhWxFEN1b6k&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

  2. #2
    Bike Dork
    Reputation: sin3kal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    67
    Haha, the title of this thread made me laugh. Now, for the useful part of my post http://www.webcyclery.com/product.ph...cat=405&page=1
    http://www.danscomp.com/440063.php?cat=PARTS

  3. #3
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    Damn, I was ordering crap from Dan's all winter while building up my bmx bike (which I sold to build up my current ss) and just didn't even think about them.

    Big difference in price. $25 each for the ones like are in the video! Holy crap! You know, $1.99 doesn't seem like a bad deal!

  4. #4
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    mine are 1" wide....might be too much for you.

  5. #5
    Bike Dork
    Reputation: sin3kal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    67
    Yes the mountain bike equivalent of stronger/cheaper BMX parts is ridiculous. My mtb dirt jumper is mostly BMX parts - cranks, sprocket, pedals, stem, hubs.

  6. #6
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    I will have to take a measurement when I get home. I will get back to you though. I like the style of yours for sure.

    At the moment, I am not experiencing much of any slipping but I would rather have the assurance that it is not going to happen and the ones I have from my BMX bike are just way too large to fit under the drop out where the top folds over.

  7. #7
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    I think it is rediculous as I definitely beat on my bmx bike harder than my mtb! I was seriously thinking about sticking my FLY tubular cranks on my bike but finding a euro 22mm bb is a bit of a pain. I figured I would be fine with the cheapy crank that came with it for now anyway.

  8. #8
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    Quote Originally Posted by sin3kal
    Yes the mountain bike equivalent of stronger/cheaper BMX parts is ridiculous. My mtb dirt jumper is mostly BMX parts - cranks, sprocket, pedals, stem, hubs.
    BMX is more popular, so they can sell the parts cheaper due to volume. But there is a huge difference in those 2 tensioners shown.. you get what you pay for. Granted, i think $25 is quite a bit excessive for one ($50 for a pair i assume?). I think $25 for a pair would be reasonible for what is involved in making them.

  9. #9
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    Quote Originally Posted by 1SPD
    I will have to take a measurement when I get home. I will get back to you though. I like the style of yours for sure.

    At the moment, I am not experiencing much of any slipping but I would rather have the assurance that it is not going to happen and the ones I have from my BMX bike are just way too large to fit under the drop out where the top folds over.
    Thanks!
    What frame do you have btw?

  10. #10
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    Thanks!
    What frame do you have btw?
    It is a GT Peace 26er.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    288
    BMX Redline chain tugs for $11 for the pair.


  12. #12
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    I would agree that the $1.99 versions flat out suck. A friend of mine bought one in a pinch from a local shop and it flat out snapped after about 2 manual grinds on his rear peg. Granted I am not grining on my SS (thought about it once though). But $25 is a little steep for one. I think the RL's and yours are the design I would prefer to have but it will all depend on the measurements I see this afternoon. If looking at the photo above, imagin that the top edge of my drop out folds over toward the outside edge if you will. This makes it difficult to get something much larger than the nut on there. Just not sure how much space I actually have though. Can you tell me what the measurement is from the top of the axle hole to the top of the tugger when measured as if it were mounted?

    If someone has the measurement for the RL's that would be great also. They are both about the same price but the RL's don't have a bottle opener!

  13. #13
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    Isuckatriding-I took a measurement and it looks like it is just a hair over 7/8" from bottom edge to bottom of dropout. I think the only way I could get away with your's is if I some how mill down the top edge or something. But in doing that I will end up making them look like crap which would be a bit of a disgrace to your work of art. Would it be possible for you to mill down the top edge of a set of them?

  14. #14
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    Quote Originally Posted by 1SPD
    Isuckatriding-I took a measurement and it looks like it is just a hair over 7/8" from bottom edge to bottom of dropout. I think the only way I could get away with your's is if I some how mill down the top edge or something. But in doing that I will end up making them look like crap which would be a bit of a disgrace to your work of art. Would it be possible for you to mill down the top edge of a set of them?
    Yea, i figured as much, oh well.. Thanks for the consideration at least!
    I cant really mill them down, because of the hollowed out part in the center. It'd just look like crap and/or break unfortunately
    Not sure why GT did that, it's very weird.

  15. #15
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    Yep, right after I posted that I took a look at yours again and realized the same thing.

    The frame is supposed to come with some little screws that thread into the drop out similar to what used to be found on older road frames. The problem is, they aren't there and never where. I am guessing that the bike guru's at Performance simply did not install them. Guess I have to go raise a little hell them this weekend.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    538
    the gt's have two holes in the drops outs so tou could running something like jabbernutz http://vassagocycles.com/hardware.html or go to the hardware store and find a bolt that fits those holes..
    stumpjumper 29 evo
    Jabberwocky
    Gt peace 9'r
    SE Lager

  17. #17
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    Awesome, i just went ahead and ordered a set! (jabbermutz) Thanks nickcarll

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    425
    Is there such thing as a tug nut device that keeps the axle from moving backwards as well as forward?

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    538
    Quote Originally Posted by Stahr_Nut
    Is there such thing as a tug nut device that keeps the axle from moving backwards as well as forward?
    With proper tension the chain would keep it froom moving backwards
    stumpjumper 29 evo
    Jabberwocky
    Gt peace 9'r
    SE Lager

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    425
    Quote Originally Posted by nickcarll
    With proper tension the chain would keep it froom moving backwards
    I'm not concerned about the drive side. When using a QR wheel sometimes the disc brake force will cause the non-drive side to move backwards and the wheel will go cockeye in the frame and the tire will start rubbing.

  21. #21
    Bike Dork
    Reputation: sin3kal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by Stahr_Nut
    I'm not concerned about the drive side. When using a QR wheel sometimes the disc brake force will cause the non-drive side to move backwards and the wheel will go cockeye in the frame and the tire will start rubbing.

    I had the same problem. I ended up trying different skewers until I found one that held tighter. The one that ended up working the best was a cheap steel skewer. The aluminum one that I was using had developed some slop. Putting a star washer behind the skewer would probably help too by providing some friction. Note that this WILL gouge your paint.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    288
    I took off the Redline tugs and put on the stock chain tug (on the drive side) that also doubles as a derailleur hanger. I did have to replace the bolt and cut to size. It now works as good as new.

    I'm using Deore skewers (came with the wheel set) and they work well. Good clamping force. Also being closed cam, they're not exposed to all the crap being thrown around.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,667
    I have the Sinz axle tensioners on my Felt TK3. They didn't fit in the hooded dropouts that are just under an inch. I just put my big bastard file in the vice, and ran the tensioner down down on it on both sides until it fit. If you have a belt sander that would be much faster.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.