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  1. #1
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    Noob, hoping to get some insight on crank options!!!

    Hey All,

    Noobie here, so pardon my lack of knowledge on the subject.

    The existing crank set on the bike now does not have rivets or bolts connecting the chainrings. I am assuming they are pressed on, which makes me believe I will need a new crank setup.

    So, shopping for a crank online, I have seen a few that are in my tight budgeted price range but the chainring is riveted on there. Is it possible to drill out the rivets as you would any other revited application?

    Does anyone have any suggestions on a cheap crank set that will get me back on the road?

    Currenty the bike (found in the trash and asked the guy if I could take it) is a Diamondback Outlook. I am not sure of the year but I believe the crankset on it now is Shimano Alivio.
    Last edited by Slippery Si; 04-27-2010 at 10:56 AM.

  2. #2
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    Does anyone know of any crank brands (ex. Shimano Deore, Shimano XT...etc) that will work for sure?

  3. #3
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    What's your budget?

    I think the best value going currently is the Shimano LX, which is very durable, very stiff, and not too heavy.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Crankset.aspx

  4. #4
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    Without being to specific here the best thing you can do is swap out the carank for one that has interchangeable sprockets. LX as mentioned is a great option for the price, but there are many others out there. The big question is what type of bottom bracket do you have. There are quite a few different styles out there with different patters to them, ie tapered, splined, issis (splined) and what not. Unless you want to change the bottom bracket at the same time then you need to figure out what sort of bb is already on the bike which will narrow down your choices to a degree as far as what cranks to look at.

  5. #5
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    Race Face cranks are great, and usually reasonably price - though, if you get a Race Face crank, you get their terrible bottom brackets with it - so you may need to think about that if you ride anywhere that gets wet, ever.

    The LX would be a great option for the price. I also like some of the lower end FSA cranks, they seem to work fine.

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys, I appreciate the insight. My BB is a square taper style but I thought about replacing that also just to be on the safe side.

    I will look into the LX if you guys say that is a good deal. I also found a Cannondale CODA crankset on ebay for about $35 so I was thinking about that too. I figure Cannondale is a name brand and should make a good set. any thoughts?

    As long as the chainrings are bolted and not riveted then I feel confident I can get this to work.

    Also, my plan was to pull the BB out and replace it with one the same length. Does that sound correct?

  7. #7
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    I will say this soley from my experience of trying out a conversion kit purchased from Performance last year. I don't recommend this kit unless this is a simple trial to see if you really want to invest money into a ss which is what I was doing. I don't recommend this simply because the chain tensioner is a pos. None the less, the kit comes with rear cog spacer and a couple of different rear cogs. I think I got a 16, 17, 18 cog with the kit. I simply removed the inner and outer front chainrings, relocated the middlie chainring to the front side of the crank arm (where the large chainring is bolted) and then added spacers on the rear cassette until I was able to align my chaing as straight as possible between front and rear chainring/cog. Pretty simple actually. Chain tension was my largest battle and I constantly threw my chain off the front sprocket while under heavy load (going up hill). it did however help to teach me to pedal smoother with more even strokes but my frame was pretty cheap and flexed a fair amount. Combine that with an inferior chain tensioner (pulley) and you are pretty much set up to fail.

    So, to answer your question, I think you can get away with the same size bb. But keep in mind that some cranks require different lengths due to their desin. Some cranks are considered low profile which hugs the crank closer to the frame. If the bb is too shot this could result in the crank arm making contact with the chainstays. There is also the option of external bb cups now as well so all of this can make a difference in your set up. I would think that if you are on a budget and trying to keep the cost down that an LX crank with a comperable Shimano bb that you should be fine.

  8. #8
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    See if a friend has an old crankset that has been upgraded. You might check at your LBS, sometimes they have some inexpensive parts that have been upgraded when bikes were purchased.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Rup...going to check LBS this week.

    Hopefully I can do this on the cheap as the older Diamondback Outlook that is going to be converted, came from the trash. Some guy was going to throw it away and a good friend of mine asked him if he could take it and gave it to me. So far I am out $4 for a tube (had new tires on it already!!) LOL

  10. #10
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    Thanks again for the input 1SPD...I am hoping I can get around chain tension issues as the bike is older and has horizontal dropouts but we will what happens.

  11. #11
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    thread noob #2

    I'm in the same boat, I'm converting my old cannondale m400 into an SS and having poured many hours and deliberated over crank and chainring size, this is what I ended up ordering today:
    http://www.worldclasssupply.com/Bicycle-stuff.html
    they are item #51. they are also for sale on ebay under seller name "mrbikeman".
    Having said that I fully expect someone to point out these cranks and ring are junk. *fingers crossed* They are 38t and I also bought a 19t rear cog....thoughts?

  12. #12
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    DX is not bad. It is on the heavy side of things but the cranks themselves have proven the test of time. The gearing seems a little tall imo but that really boils down to what you are comfortable with. Most guys seem to be riding 32/18 (me included). In this game it is about building it cheap in the beginning to see if this is really what you want. Then if you don't like it you aren't out much or if you do, you at least have something to ride while you save for upgrades.

    Slippery Si-No problem. I wasn't trying to rain on your parade at all. I just don't want you to end up spenind money on something that ends up not being compatible with what you already have. Been there/ Done that. Just recently actually. I picked up a new GT Peace complete bike and figured I would simply swap out the rigid fork for the RS Psylo that has been on my xc bike for years. It has disc brake mounts so no worries. Well, all of that bolted right up to the new ride but the rigid fork only has disc mounts and my XC bike has XTR v-brakes on it. So now the xc bike is sitting there somewhat unrideable. The new plan is to upgrade my shock for my ss, then buy a cheap Access frame in a small size, swap all parts from the XC to it and teach my wife how to ride! That way I can just stick the Psylo back on there for her. Best of both worlds I guess but it still screwed me up. I would rather spend the money on a new set of wheels instead of a shock upgrade and another bike build for someone else to ride (I know, I'm being selfish!).

  13. #13
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    Wait a minute, if I upgrade my wheels, I can stick the stock ones w/ discs on the wifes bike and she can have disc brake and a rigid front end. Hmmmm, that might work. I think she wants the shock though...not that I think she will know the difference in the beginning. She will learn to be a better ride without it for sure!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justinbunyon
    http://www.worldclasssupply.com/Bicycle-stuff.html
    they are item #51. they are also for sale on ebay under seller name "mrbikeman".
    It worries me the description says "Recoiled pedal threads" and the drive side arm has what looks like a helicoil in the pedal threads. $45 is way too much for a helicoiled DX crank.

  15. #15
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    It definitely looks like there is something in there???? Sorry, I did not look at the pricing either. I would not pay that much for a DX crank either.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SPD
    It definitely looks like there is something in there.
    What you're seeing looks like the inside end of a helicoil:


  17. #17
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    Well shiiiyyyyyyyyattttt. Looks like I just bought a $45 meat tenderizer for the kitchen. What are some decent shimano compatible ss cranks besides the LX for >$100?

  18. #18
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    Sorry dude.

    Any Shimano crankset canbe made into a single speed crankset by removing the inner and outer chainring. Take a look at the LX crankset. It's cheap, very durable, very stiff, and reasonably light.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...t.aspx?sc=FRGL

  19. #19
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    Yeah, saw those earlier when I was looking at cranks but initially passed on them because of the semi-low rating (3.48/5) After reading the reviews seems like some people swear by them while others swear they are junk. Maybe my next component purchase needs to be a magic-8 ball hahaha. I've heard its better to have ss chainrings and cogs without the ramps? What about this crank and switching out the bb?

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Crankset.aspx

    holy crap never mind looks like those REALLY suck

  20. #20
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    Those DX cranks work fine. I have a set. They are helicoiled. The problem is they come with a 38T ring, that is too big for me unless I run a 24t cog on a 29". I guess a 22 on a 26" would be about the same. The rings are 5 bolt 110mm BCD. The smallest regular ring you can buy is a 34t. So, then you have the added cost of a new ring or nice cog.

  21. #21
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    Sometimes you shouldn't pay too much attention to the reviews; in this case it's because of the BB system. With an external BB it's important to get the BB shell faced ($20 to $25 at your LBS), and you can make the stock bearings last a lot longer by initially repacking them with high quality grease (I prefer Phil Wood). If the bearings do wear out or seize, then just replace them with the $15 Enduro bearings and never worry about them again.

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