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Thread: New Crank Help

  1. #1
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    New Crank Help

    I'm trying to decide on a new crank. My 2 choices are:
    1) Truvativ Stylo GXP
    2) Shimano LX M580

    I'm concerned about the durability and performance of the Truvativ. Specifically, I do not want creaking, loosening or bearing failure. I feel confident that the Shimano cranks would perform well. All things being relatively equal, I would choose the Truvativ because they are a little lighter and come with everything I need.

    Can anyone comment on the Stylo GXP vs. the Shimano LX M80?

    Thanks for the help.
    Last edited by KeithG; 01-31-2006 at 05:46 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeithG
    I'm trying to decide on a new crank. My 2 choices are:
    1) Truvativ Stylo GXP
    2) Shimano LX M580

    I'm concerned about the durability and performance of the Truvativ. Specifically, I do not want creaking, loosening or bearing failure. I feel confident that the Shimano cranks would perform well. All things being relatively equal, I would choose the Truvativ because they are a little lighter and come with everything I need.

    Can anyone comment on the Stylo GXP vs. the Shimano LX M80?

    Thanks for the help.
    Question: Why are you limiting yourself to those two? Is it a monetary issue? If not, for SSing, you can do better with something like the White Industries Eno. I like the availability of 180 mm length to get extra leverage (I know this one's been debated to death, long cranks work for me, not everybody).

    One issue with Truvativ I saw on a riding companion's bike a couple weeks ago was bearing failure. The internal bearings of his splined cranks are smaller than the old square taper systems and don't last as long in the conditions we subject them to here in the NorthWet.
    Does the Truvativ model you refer to have internal or external? I haven't looked at the LX current version. Are they external bearing or internal?

    If the bearings are external, it's possibly a tossup, but I have had a slight preference for Shimano on a qualitative basis. It seems like Truvativ uses a little softer alloy.

  3. #3
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    I looked at the same cranks sets

    And a few others. I have external bearing Race Face on another bike and while the cranks perform well, the install was like cold welding steel with a hammer. A PITA. I have had older Stylos (ISIS) for a while and did not have any issues with them, but I wanted external bearings on my new SS and I was building a rigid for my son in Calif. What sold me on the Shimano LX was my local LBS gave me a great deal on a set. I put them on a full suspension bike (took off the ISIS Stylos for a bike for my son) and was VERY impressed with how easy they installed. Shifting is great. I bought another set of LX's for my new SS. Stripped off all the gears except the middle one, got a set of short bolts and all is well. The Q-factor issue isn't one for me, the cranks appear to be in the near identical positions on the full suspension bike as compared to the Stylos that came off it. And, I think the LX's look good. I have the M580.

    From what I can tell, the Hone is an idential crankset to the LX, just a different color.

    Plus, at the height of my powers, I would never get any advantage going from a LX to and XT to an XTR to any carbon crank to a ENO or whatever. Just a reality check for me.

    A really cheap alternative is to find a set of Shimano 600's on eBay. I got a set a while back for about $30 for my road fixie and they are bullit proof so far with a square tapered shimano bb. But that bike is a different story . . .

    My 8 and 2/3 cents worth of opinion.

    Rick
    "Oh, and how dare you accuse me of lying, drinking, getting high" DessertRagged

  4. #4
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    My gearie has a Truvativ team stylo crankset and I have not been impressed. The crank/BB ISIS interface has never seemed to mesh very well and as a result, the crank bolts constantly loosen up... It actually came off on one ride, but I stayed clipped in to the thing. Loctite didn't work, pipe thread tape worked better but the bolts eventually work their way loose. I have resorted to carrying spare crank bolts in case they loosen up and come off again and I loose the bolt.

    I originally got them because I like the blue anodized finish and they looked great for about 5 rides... but the anodization has worn off in spots now and they just look crappy.

    Maybe I just got a bum set, but I certainly wouldn't buy another set.

  5. #5
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    Noodle Heads!!!!!!!

    To all the people who answered and don't have a clue....

    The M580 and Stylo GXP are both external bearing types. Sheesh! try looking it up before answering like a dolt.

    To answer your question, I do not have any personal experience, but from everything I've read there isn't an external bearing BB to date that lasts the test of time... sorry. There are aftermarket bearings that are a bit spendy (SKF), but will make life much better.

    As far as should you buy a new ISIS or get the new cranks. My $.02 is why by the new cranks that you're going to have to replace bearings in anyway? SKF also makes replacement bearings for ISIS and you won't have to get new cranks.

    If you really want to spend some $$ get a Phil BB and a set of middleburn cranks in sq.tpr. Tried and true. If you want to spend a $hit load of $$$, a little bird told me that a certain chi chi headset/hub company located in the PNW has given up on ISIS and is going to be introducing a super bling sq.tpr. bb but don't quote me on that.

    Good luck, let us know how it turns out for you.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Bob
    To all the people who answered and don't have a clue....

    The M580 and Stylo GXP are both external bearing types. Sheesh! try looking it up before answering like a dolt.
    I actually do realize the difference and was commenting more on the durability issues that I experienced with the Truvativ product that I own. Sorry if I didn't make myself clear, but I don't think my response warranted being called a dolt.

  7. #7
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    Your opinion

    Quote Originally Posted by galleywench
    I actually do realize the difference and was commenting more on the durability issues that I experienced with the Truvativ product that I own. Sorry if I didn't make myself clear, but I don't think my response warranted being called a dolt.
    You expressed your opinion and that I respect. You further clarrified and stated that you had the ISIS version in your original post, so I retract my dolt statement (tough day at the office).

    What kind of BB do you have? Have you tried another type of BB? What kind of crank bolts are you using? I know a lot of people who have had a tough time using alloy bolts on ISIS and not using the torque spec'd. If you have some cheap m15x1 bolts in steel, torque to factory spec's which should get your cranks on there good and tight. You can then remove the cheap steel ones and replace with the lighter Alu. or ti bolts. I'd also rotate the cranks to interface 180 degrees so you have a fresh contact point.

    Hope that works or helps your situation.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Bob
    You expressed your opinion and that I respect. You further clarrified and stated that you had the ISIS version in your original post, so I retract my dolt statement (tough day at the office).
    no problem... everyone has sh!tty days

    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Bob
    What kind of BB do you have? Have you tried another type of BB? What kind of crank bolts are you using? I know a lot of people who have had a tough time using alloy bolts on ISIS and not using the torque spec'd. If you have some cheap m15x1 bolts in steel, torque to factory spec's which should get your cranks on there good and tight. You can then remove the cheap steel ones and replace with the lighter Alu. or ti bolts. I'd also rotate the cranks to interface 180 degrees so you have a fresh contact point.

    Hope that works or helps your situation.
    Sorry to hijack OP's thread, but the BB is a race face evolve XC (I have same one on SS with no issues). The crank bolts are the originals that came with the crankset (I torque wrench everything to spec), I'll take your advice and swap them out with the spare Al set I have and rotate the cranks... thanks, back to OP thread.

  9. #9
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    The TruVativ GXP SS cranks on one of my singlespeeds are still working, but the bearings seem a little crispy, and the crank arms are actually wearing away where my shoe can rub on them. On my other SS, my Shimano XT 760 cranks are still spinning fine, the finish is worn off in places, but no noticable metal wear, however the Q-factor is horrible (I will never buy another set of Shimano cranks again), almost 3/4 of an inch wider than most of my other bikes, no wonder I'm rubbing on the cranks (and I ride Eggbeaters which have a lot of heel "float").

    I am going to replace the XTs with White Industries Eno 180s (the XTs are 180s too) and a Phil stainless steel spindle BB. Then like my Phil Wood hubs, I should never have to mess with that BB again.

    As a side note about external bearings, my Saint bearings on my DH bike have been beat to hell and still spin fine, my three year old XTR 960 bearings are still spinning fine, and my RaceFace X-type bearings on both my Blur and my Evil have always seemed to have more drag even when new and set up perfectly (and I'm on my second set of RaceFace X-type bearings on my Blur). Too bad Shimano makes somewhat reliable external bearings, but such annoyingly useless non adjustable chainline and wide Q-factor cranks.

    Just make sure with external bearings that you have the BB shell of your frame faced, check the exact width to make sure it is not under spec, and set up carefully and compensate with the correct spacers if needed, because the BB shell of your frame IS part of your BB with X-type bearings, and your bearings will not be parallel and work correctly if installed only slightly crooked.

    With this horribly wide Q-factor of some external bearing cranks and the jacked up 50+mm chainline that they now tell us is acceptable, I think we were better off with a sparate and sef-contained BB and crank arms. Made set up a lot easier, and less chance of frying your BB bearings when they get wet. The seals on all these X-type bearings are very simply and poorly designed, in fact, the TruVativ instructions tell you to "take the bearing cover off and apply grease to the bearing surface during assembly". they are bigger than the old BB type bearings, but if they are not as reliable and more difficult to set up correctly, what's the point? More less confugurable proprietary junk, don't get me started on that rant...

    Dave
    Just Passing Through: eatin' dirt & crappin' dust

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the input

    Thanks for everyone's input. I was hoping to here more positve feedback regarding the external bearing BB. I didn't even consider Q-factor issues. I also thought installation would be snap.

    The higher cost and a desire to try the new technology kept me from adding the ENO crank to my short list. I have a Phil eccentric already. Considering the potential problems with the external bb set-up, I think I'll choose a sweet Stainless Phil BB and ENO crank.

    Now...should I go with 175 or 180mm? No need to reply as I know this topic has been debated repeatedly.

  11. #11
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    I have heard of very, very few problems with the XT M760's. There are good deals to be had on these if you shop around a little bit. I have bought two sets of 180mm M760's in the last couple months for FAR less than $200 a pop. Suposedly a Shimano distributor blew out the 180mm cranks.

    Shop around. And oh yea, I like the 180's over the 175's. There is a subtle, but noticable difference.

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