Need the opinion of the SS crowd...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Need the opinion of the SS crowd...

    just picked up this classic Raleigh for $10 and i'm wondering if it'd be a decent SS beater, or is it a classic, it does have horiz. dropouts, and the stock deraileur is wonky, so it looks like a good candidate for the SS treatment....

    i'd just like some input from the SS gurus here....
    Brian, there's a message in my Alpha-Bits, it says "OOOOOOOO"
    Peter, those are Cheerios

    Gears, we don't need no steenking gears!

  2. #2
    34N 118W
    Reputation: Hollywood's Avatar
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    since you're asking...

    here's my *vision*

    -leave the paint & decals as-is. I like it.
    -leave the front wheel and brake. Cool.
    -go fixed gear. Ditch the shifters and derailleurs/mechs. Ebay!
    -Build a proper rear fixie wheel with the $$$ from Ebay
    -swap bars, or try the "flip 'n chop" manuever for some cheapo bullhorns using the existing bars
    -teeth count on the chainrings? can one be removed?

    congrats on the $10 special!

  3. #3
    paintbucket
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    That's early 70s I think. You can research it here:

    http://retroraleighs.com/record.html

    Basically a gas pipe low-mid range frame. Good beater material.

    I saw the comment on the other thread about the derailleur. Back in the day you could tell the weight weenies not only by their drillium parts, but by the Simplex derailleurs. All that plastic makes them very light, and they worked just fine.

    PS--Those are not suicide levers. Suicide levers were brake levers you could operate from the tops.
    When the going gets weird its bedtime.

  4. #4
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    The Yardsale Special is now a Singlespeed.....

    i figured since the bike is;

    A; a mediocre "nothing special" bike
    and;
    B; not worth putting money into

    i'd go the "work with what you have" route and turn it into a SS townie bike

    the only repairs i've done to it are replacing the tires, tubes, rim strips, and brake pads, that's all that was needed to get it rideable, and that's all i'm going to do to it, i *might* get the steering head repacked as the LBS says it needs it, but other than that, it's going to be a "ride it until it falls apart" bike

    i just got done yoinking the shifters, deraileurs, and shortening the chain, i decided to use the stock rear cassette and front gear ring, as it's not worth putting a SS rear hub on or replacing the front cranks/gears, and it works quite well actually.....

    apparently the rear deraileur can fetch a decent price on eBay, and the tech at my LBS says he knows someone who'll pay $25 just for the headtube badge alone

    so my next ideas are....

    1; leave well enough alone and ride it until the wheels fall off, don't repaint it or do anything further, if it breaks, it breaks, it's my "learn DIY bike maintenance" bike

    2; repaint it, making it a "Rustoleum Special", i'm thinking doing a "blackout" job on the frame and forks, maybe even the crank and front gears, and let the chrome rims and handlebar trim stand as a contrast, perhaps put on some black bar tape, and keep the front headtube logo (mask it off before painting it)

    3; sell the headtube badge to the guy at the LBS, do the aforementioned "Rustoleum Blackout" job, use the $25 to buy parts for my other bikes

    here's a quick'n'dirty Photoshop chop job of what it'd look like blacked out....
    Brian, there's a message in my Alpha-Bits, it says "OOOOOOOO"
    Peter, those are Cheerios

    Gears, we don't need no steenking gears!

  5. #5
    "Mr. Britannica"
    Reputation: roadiegonebad's Avatar
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    option #2 is something like this:


    If you do it, use paint from the auto parts store, $3/can, 1 or 2 depending on how thorough you are. No need to sand to bare metal either, just rough up, smooth and use old paint as primer.
    Last edited by roadiegonebad; 06-12-2005 at 06:12 PM.

  6. #6
    paintbucket
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacTech
    i *might* get the steering head repacked
    Screw that. Do it yourself. Hell, take everything apart and put it back together again. No better way to learn. This ain't rocket science.
    When the going gets weird its bedtime.

  7. #7
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    Here's the latest update on the SS conversion....

    i believe the gearing is 20/40 or something, i know the chain's on the 20T gear in the cassette, and i believe the small ring up front is a 40-something (40-42ish), it seems to be just the right balance of power and ease of pedaling on the flats, decent power withought being legbusting on the climbs, however i do spin out on downhills, no biggie, i''ll coast anyway

    i needed a gear ratio that would give me decent power on the flats, and not be too brutal for climbing, i think i found it....

    i've also added a couple of tweaks to make it more comfortable, a better seat and new bar tape....

    yes, yes, i know it's not a MTB, but i *do* ride it on the lawn and dirt roads, i'm sure that's pretty rough for a roadie...





    at some point, i'll strip the excess gears off the cassette and put some spacers on, but right now i just want to make sure it works, so the ugly casette will have to stay....for now
    Brian, there's a message in my Alpha-Bits, it says "OOOOOOOO"
    Peter, those are Cheerios

    Gears, we don't need no steenking gears!

  8. #8
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    You probably have a freewheel, not a cassette. You may have to get a freewwheel single speed. I would leave it alone until you find a screamin deal on a 700c wheelset with 126mm spacing. Oh, and when you take off the freewheel just go and buy the Park tool for 4.95 rather than pay the $5 shop charge.

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