My new friends Kelly and Paul- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    pedalphile
    Reputation: BontyRider's Avatar
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    My new friends Kelly and Paul

    My first new mountain bike in eight years!

    Here's the requisite parts list...
    - Kelly Deluxe (orange is the new pink)
    - Paul WORD rear hub + WTB LaserDisc Lite front hub laced to Velocity VXC rims w/ DT Swiss spokes (Built by Mike Garcia @ oddsandendos)
    - Avid Mechs, Paul Love Levers, Flak Jackets
    - Fox F100RLT
    - Thomson seatpost & stem, Easton carbon bar (from previous bike)
    - Ancient LX crank, the original one from my old Bontrager, which proves that there are some parts out there that last for a long, long time.

    Hopefully this weekend I'll find out what it's like to ride it...
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    now the world is gone i'm just o n e

  2. #2
    "Mr. Britannica"
    Reputation: roadiegonebad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BontyRider
    My first new mountain bike in eight years!

    Here's the requisite parts list...
    - Kelly Deluxe (orange is the new pink)
    - Paul WORD rear hub + WTB LaserDisc Lite front hub laced to Velocity VXC rims w/ DT Swiss spokes (Built by Mike Garcia @ oddsandendos)
    - Avid Mechs, Paul Love Levers, Flak Jackets
    - Fox F100RLT
    - Thomson seatpost & stem, Easton carbon bar (from previous bike)
    - Ancient LX crank, the original one from my old Bontrager, which proves that there are some parts out there that last for a long, long time.

    Hopefully this weekend I'll find out what it's like to ride it...

    Fox-y.

  3. #3
    Des(s)ert Rat
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    Very nice! Nicely spec'd and the color is striking. I'm waiting (im)patiently for my new frame to arrive. What can Brown do for me? Get my bike here NOW!

  4. #4
    pedalphile
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    Thanks

    Thanks. It makes this nice ticking sound when it rolls too. (=

    I'm no stranger to hitting refresh every five minutes to see if the tracking data on a shipment has been updated. It's agonizing then it says "Out for delivery" - Makes you feel like a prisoner cuz if you're home you can't leave.

    Quote Originally Posted by screampint
    Very nice! Nicely spec'd and the color is striking. I'm waiting (im)patiently for my new frame to arrive. What can Brown do for me? Get my bike here NOW!
    now the world is gone i'm just o n e

  5. #5
    Down South Yooper
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    Tell me more:

    About your rear disc mount. I'm not quite clear why it is the way it is, and why it is this way? What's the word?

    Plum

  6. #6
    pedalphile
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    The Paul WORD

    The Paul WORD hub with that adaptor contraption is one system that allows you to use disc brakes with horizontal dropouts.

    If your frame has horizontals, and your disc brake is attached to a standard disc mount, you can end up with problems where the brake does not align properly with the rotor. The Paul system allows the brake to move with the wheel. Slide the wheel forward or backward, and the brake moves with it, so it's always lined up.

    The downside is a small weight penalty for those who care, and also in order to change a tube or tire, you have to remove a bolt.

    My frame has a little tab welded onto it just for this system. But the adaptor can also be used on frames with canti bosses. It comes with a longer arm that reaches all the way to the canti boss. Funny-looking, but apparently it works.

    We'll see how much I like it when I get my first flat...

    Quote Originally Posted by Plum
    About your rear disc mount. I'm not quite clear why it is the way it is, and why it is this way? What's the word?

    Plum
    now the world is gone i'm just o n e

  7. #7
    Down South Yooper
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    Gotcha

    I'm about to put discs (Magura Louise's) on my KM soon, we'll see how much fun it is then to pull the rear wheel. I'm envisioning the worst, having to pull mounting bolts with many leettle tiny spacers just to get the wheel out. Fun.

    Plum

  8. #8
    mtbr member
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    Just loosen

    Quote Originally Posted by Plum
    I'm about to put discs (Magura Louise's) on my KM soon, we'll see how much fun it is then to pull the rear wheel. I'm envisioning the worst, having to pull mounting bolts with many leettle tiny spacers just to get the wheel out. Fun.

    Plum
    the bolts up enough so that the disc caliper moves out of the way. There is no need to remove the caliper all the way. I also run my wheel back dropout so I don't even have to loosen anything at all. It is not bad, the worst part is getting your wheel back in straight so the dics doesn't squeel. Ed

  9. #9
    No Justice = No Peace
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    Those Cranks

    Quote Originally Posted by BontyRider
    My first new mountain bike in eight years!

    Here's the requisite parts list...
    - Kelly Deluxe (orange is the new pink)
    - Paul WORD rear hub + WTB LaserDisc Lite front hub laced to Velocity VXC rims w/ DT Swiss spokes (Built by Mike Garcia @ oddsandendos)
    - Avid Mechs, Paul Love Levers, Flak Jackets
    - Fox F100RLT
    - Thomson seatpost & stem, Easton carbon bar (from previous bike)
    - Ancient LX crank, the original one from my old Bontrager, which proves that there are some parts out there that last for a long, long time.

    Hopefully this weekend I'll find out what it's like to ride it...
    What did you pu on for gearing? I mean what brand and what size, particularly the front ring. I'm setting up my old Bontrager race as a SS and i am planning to use my the original XT crank set and a White eccentric hub with a freewheel for trails and a fixed cog for townie/screwing around. Wil I need to mount a big front ring on the middle position? A picture of your set-up would ease my mind...

    Thanks.

  10. #10
    try driving your car less
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    Quote Originally Posted by BontyRider
    My first new mountain bike in eight years!

    Here's the requisite parts list...
    - Kelly Deluxe (orange is the new pink)
    - Paul WORD rear hub + WTB LaserDisc Lite front hub laced to Velocity VXC rims w/ DT Swiss spokes (Built by Mike Garcia @ oddsandendos)
    - Avid Mechs, Paul Love Levers, Flak Jackets
    - Fox F100RLT
    - Thomson seatpost & stem, Easton carbon bar (from previous bike)
    - Ancient LX crank, the original one from my old Bontrager, which proves that there are some parts out there that last for a long, long time.

    Hopefully this weekend I'll find out what it's like to ride it...
    That looks super nice. It's also nice to have one old part carried on to a new bike, like your cranks. I like orange.
    Only boring people get bored.

  11. #11
    pedalphile
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    34 x 20 for me

    On the front is a 34T compact Blackspire ring. On the back is a 20T ACS Claws freewheel. The BB is an old XT (square taper) that my LBS had collecting dust.

    I'd describe the gearing as good for lots of climbing. (I don't have tree trunk legs) Here are a couple of pics. The ring is where it was on my old Bontrager (which used a Singleator), and it lined up fine with the freewheel. Hope that helps!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lutarious
    What did you pu on for gearing? I mean what brand and what size, particularly the front ring. I'm setting up my old Bontrager race as a SS and i am planning to use my the original XT crank set and a White eccentric hub with a freewheel for trails and a fixed cog for townie/screwing around. Wil I need to mount a big front ring on the middle position? A picture of your set-up would ease my mind...

    Thanks.
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    now the world is gone i'm just o n e

  12. #12
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by BontyRider
    ...The downside is a small weight penalty for those who care, and also in order to change a tube or tire, you have to remove a bolt.

    My frame has a little tab welded onto it just for this system. But the adaptor can also be used on frames with canti bosses. It comes with a longer arm that reaches all the way to the canti boss. Funny-looking, but apparently it works.

    We'll see how much I like it when I get my first flat...
    I use the same set up on my Chester. Same rims and front hub, too.

    You can do two things to make flat fixes and total wheel removal easier.

    First, lengthen the torque arm. It will let you get the wheel out of the dropouts without disconnecting anything. Remove the chain from the FW and you can slip the tube (and tire if need be) off and on on the drive side. I got this tip directly from Paul himself.

    Second, slot the cable stop on the Avid brake. When you want to completely remove the wheel release the cable from the brake and slip it out of the stop. Then remove the torque arm bolt from the frame mount. Works great!

    Enjoy your new ride.
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  13. #13
    pedalphile
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    Seems straightforward enough

    Thanks for the wheel removal tips! I don't think I would have even figured that out.

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    I use the same set up on my Chester. Same rims and front hub, too.

    You can do two things to make flat fixes and total wheel removal easier.

    First, lengthen the torque arm. It will let you get the wheel out of the dropouts without disconnecting anything. Remove the chain from the FW and you can slip the tube (and tire if need be) off and on on the drive side. I got this tip directly from Paul himself.

    Second, slot the cable stop on the Avid brake. When you want to completely remove the wheel release the cable from the brake and slip it out of the stop. Then remove the torque arm bolt from the frame mount. Works great!

    Enjoy your new ride.
    now the world is gone i'm just o n e

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