My cog is a dirty stripper.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    My cog is a dirty stripper.

    Well.... Taking the fixed gear out today to ride downtown (it sounds hipster, but you just wouldn't understand). And I tried to skid-stop. Key-word, "tried." Applying backward pressure to the pedals, and my cog slips and I fall onto the toptube! I got off the bike, checked it out, everything seemed fine. Tried to get going again, and the cog slipped while I was trying to accelerate. So I had to spend the rest of my ride on the freewheel. So lame.

    It's an Origin8 flip-flop hub, with a 16t Dura Ace cog and DA lockring. The cog is brand-new, and I didn't cross-thread it -- I threaded it on by hand, as tight as it would go without a chainwhip. It seems like the threads on the hub are stripped, as opposed to the threads on the cog. They're not totally stripped, just bad enough so that I notice when applying too much torque to the pedals. Is there anything I can do to fix it before it gets messed up too much? Perhaps clear all the crap out of the threads and try again?
    Sometimes, I question the value of my content.

  2. #2
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    You should have done this in the first place. It isn't like you are ****ing up a nice bb in the process.

    I suggest you try again. Only because when someone writes "seems like" it likely isn't.

    Anyway, boners.

  3. #3
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    I wound't trust it offroad, but I might just be paranoid, but you might get by with locktight or better yet JB weld. Be careful though. Next time, here's what I do when installing cogs warning: I am NOT a mechanic :
    1) first, I grease the threads - pretty lightly, but adequate
    2) then I screw on the cog pretty well
    3) I use a chainwhip and lean the wheel against a wall and a certain way will allow me to tighten it hard
    4) install the lockring and repeat for the lockring
    5) go for a short ride uphill. Somewhere where I feel comfy and I can repeat the same step 4 and 5 - I figure after cranking uphill, my cog is nice and tight, remember to tighten the lockring up AGAIN (it needs it to accommodate the small difference from the hopefully not too different position of the fixed gear cog.
    6) descend hill - I use both brakes!
    7) ride around a bit, check it all in a few days. Repeat steps 4 and 5 if needed.
    8) Ride!

  4. #4
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    The best way will be to use a disc cog on a disc wheel - tomi cog or velo solo. Tight every time! And for both use proper chainline!

  5. #5
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    A guy I know has stripped the threads on both sides of his Origin-8 flip-flop hub. I don't know what he was doing to cause them to strip, but after reading about you having a problem with the freewheel on an Origin-8 flip-flop hub, also, it is making me wonder about those hubs.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBaker View Post
    The best way will be to use a disc cog on a disc wheel - tomi cog or velo solo. Tight every time! And for both use proper chainline!
    I think the bike he is using is an older road bike, so the spacing is 127mm or something weird. I guess he could cold set it to take a disc hub, but then he might have some really interesting chainline issues...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by umarth View Post
    I think the bike he is using is an older road bike, so the spacing is 127mm or something weird. I guess he could cold set it to take a disc hub, but then he might have some really interesting chainline issues...
    Or a Shimano disc front hub with the appropriate axle and spacers. See this page

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    A guy I know has stripped the threads on both sides of his Origin-8 flip-flop hub. I don't know what he was doing to cause them to strip, but after reading about you having a problem with the freewheel on an Origin-8 flip-flop hub, also, it is making me wonder about those hubs.
    It's only the fixed side of the threads on my hub. To be fair, I've only ridden it fixed. Yesterday was the first time I've ridden that bike with a freewheel. I've got about 150-200 miles on the fixed side, and like 4 miles on the freewheel. It's less than six months old, so maybe I'll ask Jenson about a warranty replacement or something similar.

    Quote Originally Posted by umarth View Post
    I think the bike he is using is an older road bike, so the spacing is 127mm or something weird. I guess he could cold set it to take a disc hub, but then he might have some really interesting chainline issues...
    It is an older road bike.... It's the urban doofus hipstermobile that I posted about a while ago. '73 Schwinn Le Tour.

    If it comes down to a choice between replacing the hub and simply using only the freewheel from now on, I'm probably going to end up using the freewheel. I can't afford to buy a new wheel right now, and if I was going to buy a disc wheel, I'd rather convert my mountain bike to discs first.

    Hell, I'll probably end up keeping an eye on the local Craigslist anyways. I've got some stuff to get rid of, so I can trade for a suitable fixed wheel/hub too.
    Sometimes, I question the value of my content.

  9. #9
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    Surly hubs convert nicely too. But for realsies, just JB weld that **** together!

  10. #10
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    I have a sweet hip as **** Wienmann DP 18 wheelset I can sell you stupid cheap+ P&P. just throwing it out there.

    EDIT: forgot to mention, it's silver and has machined walls if you're into that sort of thing. And is fixed/free.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tone's View Post
    Id scrap the passion forum all together, its a breeding ground for unicorn milkers, rainbow chasers and candy cotton farters.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by monzie View Post
    I have a sweet hip as **** Wienmann DP 18 wheelset I can sell you stupid cheap+ P&P. just throwing it out there.

    EDIT: forgot to mention, it's silver and has machined walls if you're into that sort of thing. And is fixed/free.
    PM sent, homes. And brake tracks are a good thing. I may not believe in gears, but I do believe in brakes.
    Sometimes, I question the value of my content.

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