Motobecane outkast 29er upgraded fork/brake info- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Motobecane outkast 29er upgraded fork/brake info

    I have ridden my 2010 Motobecane Outkast 29er for 2 years.

    I have replaced the post, stem, bars, saddle, rear hub... well pretty much everything but the frame.

    I am itching to move to disc brakes but alas the frame isn't set for it. I love my setup, just wish I had disc brakes and maybe a carbon fork.

    So is a carbon fork worth the money over the Cromoly one that is on it. I realize the frame is not disc brake compatible. Should I just consider buying a new frame that is and building ground up?

    Tommy
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  2. #2
    HOV
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    Well, if you're into upgrading the fork you could always go with a modern suspension fork and run a disc brake up front.

  3. #3
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    I was leaning more towards Carbon rigid... For what I ride I like the rigid fork. Really only wish I had disc brakes. If I am going to replace the fork, I thought I would look at carbon.
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  4. #4
    mnoutain bkie rdier
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    The advantage of a carbon fork (example NINER) is that it will be more forgiving and lighter. Also, you can then run a disc up front at least.

  5. #5
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    Is it worth the money to upgrade it with a fork? Any recommendation on a fork that isn't going to break the bank? I would be cool with disc up front and linear in the rear.

    I guess my true question is... Is it worth the money for this bike, or should I just get a frame and start building a better frame.

    Thanks,

    Tommy
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  6. #6
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    Treat yourself to something better...

    Quote Originally Posted by TCXJWAGONEER View Post
    Is it worth the money to upgrade it with a fork? Any recommendation on a fork that isn't going to break the bank? I would be cool with disc up front and linear in the rear.

    I guess my true question is... Is it worth the money for this bike, or should I just get a frame and start building a better frame.

    Thanks,

    Tommy
    That frame is a dead end. I too started (from a hiatus on motorcycles) on that frame and quickly out grew it mostly because it lacked the ability to run disc brakes. I moved on to the Outcast with sliding dropouts, but by then I was riding way too hard for that frame and didn't trust it any longer.

    I think I hear the Canfield Nimble9 calling your name...

    Bryan
    Just keep pedaling, don't stop pedaling.

  7. #7
    mnoutain bkie rdier
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCXJWAGONEER View Post
    Is it worth the money to upgrade it with a fork? Any recommendation on a fork that isn't going to break the bank? I would be cool with disc up front and linear in the rear.

    I guess my true question is... Is it worth the money for this bike, or should I just get a frame and start building a better frame.

    Thanks,

    Tommy
    Well, it really depends on the buyer/rider. What are you looking to improve specifically? Steering/dampening/looks/braking....

    I would say get the fork and them purchase the frame later. The only drawback is that most likely your current frame does not have a tapered head tube. To throw $300+ at a rigid carbon fork with a standard steer tube that you can't "fully" take advantage of on your future frame that will most likely have a tapered head tube would be a bummer.

    Having said this, there are still some that will debate whether a tapered steer tube is much of a benefit.

    Also, you can use a normal steer tube on a tapered head tube frame in the future with adapters fwiw...

    Did I confuse you? Is so, sorry...

    If you have some $$ laying around, there are budget carbon frames from Sette and Gammo and On One that won't break the bank. Gammo and On One offer carbon rigid forks that match the frame for extra bling points too

    Also, you runnin' gears or SS? I know the outkast comes in both...

    .02

  8. #8
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    I get what you are saying. I ride weekly 1-2 times a week probably 5-7 miles a time. so I don't see a ton of trail time. I could probably drop 200-300 on a fork if it was a good deal/ worth it.

    I am riding single speed, Rigid. Actually like the simplicity of it. I have been riding this bike for 2 years solid and really am hooked on SS rigid. I catch a lot of hell from my buddies, but They always shut up when I pass them on a climb.

    So, Any links to good deals on the forks mentioned. I am not sure if it is tapered or not... Will have to check, and Honestly I am not sure how to check.

    Tommy
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  9. #9
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    I had a Moto that was pretty tricked out. I bought only the frame to start with and crossed over alot of parts form my old GT SS (26er) and had my wheels rebuilt.

    As for the fork, yes, I think the upgrade is great and worth it. Steel rides nice but is heavy. The carbon White Brothers is quite nice but there are certainly others out there. I think I picked mine up off ebay for about $250-275 about two years ago and I am still running it today on my Jabber frame.

    As for the Moto frame itself, well, the only issue I had with it was the slider design. There is not tensioner so it made it a bit of a pain to get the wheel straight and tightening down the drop out screws resulted in indentations in the drop out due to the softer aluminum. Other than that, I simply didn't like all the cable stops on it since I wasn't running it geared. But the frame held up and was an economical way for me to give a 29er a shot.

    This was pretty much the what the bike looked like right before I swapped everything over to my Vassago frame. Pretty nice parts on it over all and it weighed in at 21 lbs I think.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane outkast 29er upgraded fork/brake info-dsc_0362.jpg  


  10. #10
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    That is a nice looking bike. Mine is white, but I like that color on yours. The only issue with mine is it is a 2010 and does not have disc brake tabs on the frame.

    I guess I could run a carbon fork with disc and not replace the rear brake system.

    Seems Ghetto, but I ran an old DBX X2 frame for a while that same way

    My LBS has a used SS Haro frame for 100 bucks. I may go look at it.

    I like the Moto frame, but I am open to others

    So, How to I tell if my tube is tapered?
    Last edited by TCXJWAGONEER; 06-21-2012 at 07:40 AM.
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  11. #11
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    I suspect that if your frame is a 2010 model that it is NOT tapered. You would be able to tell this by:

    The top part of the head tube would measure 1 1/8 and the bottom of it would be 1.5". You can actually see the difference without having to measure it. I suspect that your frame is a standard 1 1/8 just like my Outcast was which was also a 2010 model year frame.

    I ride with a guy that has disc in the front and V's in the rear. For him it is because his rear wheel is the first wheel he ever built himself and is centered around a green non disc King hub. For him it is more about wanting to keep his pride and joy rear wheel but he is talking about building a new rear wheel soon so he can run disc front/rear.

    BTW, I only paid about $185 for my 29er Outcast at the beginning of 2011. I am guessing that your's is the 26" version though and I don't know if they even make the Outcast in a 26" any more or if they make it disc now if they do. Sorry, you could check at BikesDirect to verify this though.

  12. #12
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    Ok, i just read that yours is a 29er. That being said I am positive it is NOT tapered as they don't make it in a tapered version that I am aware of.

  13. #13
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    To clear the air here:

    1. Your frame is non tapered and uses a standard 1 1/8th steerer tube/headset
    2. You cannot run a tapered steerer tubed fork on your current frame
    3. You can run a non tapered steerer tubed fork on a tapered head tubed frame w/ an adapter (ie you buy a non tapered fork now but upgrade your frame later to one with a tapered head tube)

    supposedly the tapered steerer is stronger and stiffer. I personally have now owned one so I can't give you a comparison. I can say that some Niner non tapered forks have snapped on the steerer tube as have some other off brands (Hylix carbon). In both of the cases that I am aware of, those forks also had carbon steerer tubes. My White Brothers Rock Solid version has an aluminum steerer. It weighs a little more mind you, but I'm not stressed about it breaking (not there anyway). I have now had that fork on 3 different frames and been riding it for close to 3 years with no problems at all.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the info... it is a 29er. Love it too!

    Will this be what I am looking for?
    White Brothers Rock Solid 29er Carbon Fork 29 1 1/8 steerer Rigid Fork | eBay

    I guess if I pull the trigger I need brakes too. suggestions on a disc brake setup for the front?
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  15. #15
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    This appears to be the newer version of my fork. The modified the fork crown and made it thicker where it ties the stantion (legs) to the steerer tube. This is where I am concerned about mine breaking. I never thought about it breaking until they came out with this newer model. Other than that, they are pretty much identical. Yes, this is what you would use on your bike.

    Ok, as far as brakes are concerned. Your best bet is to just go with a mechanical set up. I only say that because it will be cheaper and they work great. Maybe not as smooth or as much power as a nice hydro set up but much better than a V brake. Go with an Avid BB7. You can then still use your existing brake lever! I think you can pick up a single front caliper for about $35! You will also need a rotor. I have both the KCNC's and the Ashima's. The Ashima's weigh a tad more but I think the braking is better with them. A rotor will run you about $20 or so. Keep in mind your hub has to be disc compatible or this is all a waste of time!

    The beauty of the BB7 is that you can adjust the brake pads independently. If it is rubbing on one side you simply turn the dial and move the pad in or out. They use a standard brake cable and are very easy to set up. Hydro's can be a bit of a pain for sure!

  16. #16
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    Great,

    He said it is cut to 6 3/4". I am worried that it may be too short. again could you help me with my ignorance and help me measure before I drop the $$ on it? From where to where should I measure?

    Thanks for the brake tips. I plan on upgrading the front rim with this setup. I like the thought of upgrading my fork over swapping frames. Gotta love the moto and I really like the way it rides.

    Tommy
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  17. #17
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    No problem. Use the picture of my bike as a guide for what I am about to say.

    Get a tape measure out and measure from the bottom of my headset where the fork inserts into the frame (the red lower bearing) to the top of your stem.

    You basically need to make sure that the steerer is long enough to accomodate both bearing cups, any spacers you might have, the head tube of your frame, and the stem itself. It is ok have the steerer end inside the stem no more than 1/8" from the top of your stem.

    Just to be clear, measure from the bottom of the lower red bearing, the head tube, top bearing, spacer, stem, spacer on top of stem (my fork steerer was a little long and stuck up about 1/8" out of my stem so there was a spacer on the top w/ the top cap on that).

    No worries on the brake tips. I have had a couple different sets of the past couple of years and found that the BB7's have always been the go to brakes when something goes wrong with my Hydros. They are damn near bomb proof, easy to set up/maintain, and pretty much work well all the time! I have tried, Hayes Stroker carbons (damn things never stay centered), Older XT's (got a leak in a line and they were never the same after that), Avid Elixer CR carbons (worked great, but squealed all the time), and now the newest XTR M985 race. I love them and can't believe I bought the Avid's over these the last time.

  18. #18
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    Thanks,

    Also, the fork say it is set for 51mm disc tabs. but I can only find 160mm calipers. Is their a conversion piece I will need? I am trying to put together a parts list to make this easier.

    I will post it here before I drop the $$. Also, suggestion on front rim?
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  19. #19
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    51mm is for the actual caliper mounts. It is a post mount fork so you need to get a Post mount brake. If you buy the brake caliper new it will come with the hardware you need to bolt it right to the fork. You should not need an adapter to run a 160mm rotor on that fork with the BB7 brake (I didn't anyway).

    As for the rims, well I have only run Velocity VXC rims on the SS until I recently built up my new wheels which use a Stans Crest rim. i wanted something light and the Crests are pretty much what everyone is running. Retail on those is about $88 ea! You can look at different Mavic, Alex, WTB rims. They will all more than likely cost slightly less. If you run tubeless, then now would be the time to make sure you get a rim that is also tubless compatible so you don't have to run the Stans conversion kit with them (ie you can just run the stans yellow tape and valve instead). FYI, Velocity doesn't make the VXC rim any longer so you would have to go with the Blunt or Blunt SL (I have heard good things about both of those actually). Hope that helps some.

  20. #20
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    Fork: the used one was cut too short. I need 8 1/8"
    11 White Brothers 29er Rock Solid Rigid Carbon Fork NEW | eBay

    Brakes: I can't find anything but these unless you know of something elsehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AVID-BB7-DISK-BRAKE-MTB-KIT-FRONT-OR-REAR-160mm-GRAPHITE-MOUNTAIN-BRAKE-/310406320338?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=ite m4845a890d2#ht_1759wt_1304

    Rim: Which one is best...
    Dimension Disc Front Wheel 29" SRAM 406 6-bolt / WTB FX28 Black 708752065567 | eBay

    MAVIC TN719 29" 29er Mtb Front Wheel F SHIMANO Hub 6-Bolt Disc Blk Alloy NEW | eBay
    Last edited by TCXJWAGONEER; 06-21-2012 at 08:40 AM.
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  21. #21
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    This is what I found for the brake:
    NEW AVID BB7 DISK BRAKE MTB KIT FRONT OR REAR 160mm GRAPHITE MOUNTAIN BRAKE | eBay

    Either of those wheels would work. I don't know much about the FX28 rim other than it appears to be pretty robust and has eyelits (where the spokes come out-little metal rings) which allow for ease of putting higher tension on the spokes when they are built. I suspect it would serve you well but keep in mind that it will be a little on the heavy side of thigns.

    Another option is this at a higher price.

    Shimano XT M756/Velocity Blunt 29er Disc Front Wheel 6f | eBay

    Much better quality across the board but of course it comes at a price. Not trying to sound snobby mind you. Just trying to point you in the right direction. I have a set of Mavic 517 rims w/ XT hubs on my wifes bike (they were on my XC bike until I made the move to move to SS-so they have been running strong for over 12 years now!!!) and they are still going strong! You get what you pay for (normally). Not saying that the others are bad mind you. Running rigid it is nice to have a stout front wheel and I think either of the above you posted would work just fine.

  22. #22
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    Went to the LBS at lunch. talked over some of the details and then gave him the prices found on ebay. he looked over a few things and matched the prices. Bike goes in next week for all the upgrades. he tried to sell me on carbon bars, but I like my Azonic strip bars.

    Tommy
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  23. #23
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    So I am dropping the bike off this week. Anything else I should upgrade? Here is what is going on.

    White bros. Carbon Fork
    Avid BB7
    new hub/rim to match
    Raceface stem
    Raceface carbon Bars

    Any thing else to go ahead and change? I figure everything listed above can be put on a better frame later if needed. I am open to suggestions.

    Thanks,

    Tommy
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  24. #24
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    So you caved in for the carbon bars after all huh? No worries. I have been on carbon bars for years and been quite happy with them.

    For now I say just ride it. Maybe upgrade your tires and go tubless if you have not done so already. Both could shave some weight depending on what you buy. But if weight savings isn't an issue then ride it till it breaks and go from there.

  25. #25
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    I am not super hung up on saving weight. I have Kenda Nevegals and love them. I am not running tubeless though.

    I did cave. I had too much free time at work friday and so the internet convinced me. LBS said all the parts should be in Wed and bike should be ready for the weekend. I should be out this weekend riding away. Thanks for the suggestions and help.

    Tommy
    2010 Motobecane Outcast 29er. SS and Rigid.
    Upgrades:
    Z Sette Post
    Z Sette Stumpy
    Azonic Strip Bar
    Surely Rear rim

  26. #26
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    Just be careful with the free time at work! That is how I ended up where I am now!

    Man, Navagals can be nice in poor conditions and what not but I tell ya, once you hop on a dry trail with a racing tire you can really feel the difference in rolling resistance. WHen I would swap tire out to the Nav's in the winter back on my 26er it felt like I had slapped a 16t cog on there all of a sudden. Definitely alot more work.

    Nav's are a pretty heavy tire as well. I now have some WTB Bronson tires on a spare set of wheels for riding in poor conditions and they have been great. I think they roll a little better than the Nav's and weigh slightly less if memory serves me correctly. Cost is about $40 ea. on ebay.

    Both the Bronson's and the Nav's seal up pretty easily as far as tubeless is concerned. You won't save a ton of weight going tubless over a light weight tube but you can run at lower tire pressures and don't have to worry about pinch flats which has been nice.

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