Most Durable Chainring & Chain.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Most Durable Chainring & Chain.

    Need a new chainring, 33t, what is the longest lasting?, not worried about weight. Also your opinion on durable singlespeed chains.
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Boone ti 33 and a KMC K710SL Superlight.
    OB1 Kielbasa

    One is good!

  3. #3
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    So... where would one get a boone ring nowadays... I have looked around and according to the site, they arent making them anymore.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by av_boy
    So... where would one get a boone ring nowadays... I have looked around and according to the site, they arent making them anymore.

    here?

    www.boonerings.com/cr/crsizes.html

  5. #5
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    On the ordering page you will find this:

    Please note that chainring and cog orders are currently not being taken while Brett has a chance to catch up on production.


    Thank you, and sorry for the inconvenience.

  6. #6
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    Boone is on and off wit the manufacturing of the rings and cogs and they are off right now. So used right now or one's people are sitting on are the only source right now. That also drives up the price. Watch Ebay since they do pop up there.
    OB1 Kielbasa

    One is good!

  7. #7
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    Surly has 33t stainless steel rings that, from my personal experience, are quite durable. Surly even claims that once it's worn in one direction, you can turn it around for another life cycle...not sure about that. Not the bling of a Boone ti ring, I guess, but that's another discussion.
    True North custom chromoly SS Rigid 29er. FUN+

  8. #8
    Back on the wagon
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmoretime
    Boone ti 33 and a KMC K710SL Superlight.
    I second the KMC - I use a K810 now after snapping a 4 separate SRAM master link plates over the course of a few years. No issues with the KMC

    juanmoretime - just curious why you've got a half link in there with a sliding dropout setup... Chainstay length preference?
    RIDE HARD, live easy.

  9. #9
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    Tomi?
    Ride more!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PutAwayWet
    juanmoretime - just curious why you've got a half link in there with a sliding dropout setup... Chainstay length preference?
    As a follow-up to PAW's question (I went looking for it in your pic), you might want to check out your half link. See how the last inside link points slightly up - I'll bet that link is stiff/binding on you. Drop your back wheel out and grab the chain and swivel the links in an S pattern and I'll bet that area at the front of the half link doesn't want to swivel like the other links.

  11. #11
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    For chains, I like the nickel-plated Sram PC-971. $20, durable, light enough. Never had a problem. I've broken a couple Shimano chains though.

    As far as chainrings go, I've used Salsa, ENO, Vuelta, Race Face, and FSA. They all seem to wear at the same pace for me. You could go Ti and get more longevity (and bling), but I'm not sure it's a good value. You can get 4-5 alloy or steel chainrings for the price of a Boone Ti.

  12. #12
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    surly or blackspire

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by PutAwayWet
    I second the KMC - I use a K810 now after snapping a 4 separate SRAM master link plates over the course of a few years. No issues with the KMC

    juanmoretime - just curious why you've got a half link in there with a sliding dropout setup... Chainstay length preference?
    With my current chainring/ cog selection without the half link places the sliders all the way back. I prefer the short wheelbase length for slightly quicker response.

    Thanks for the heads up on the stiff link. It was at the time possible but moves freely now.
    OB1 Kielbasa

    One is good!

  14. #14
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    I just buy aluminum chainrings nowadays. I've run Blackspire, Middleburn (proprietary), and Salsa long enough to attest to their durability. I've been running a Niner ring lately, and it is my favorite so far as it "snaps" into the middle chainring position position which means almost no loose/tight effect. I tried it on three different cranksets with the same results. Only available in 32T though.

    For chains I like the PC-1. I've never broken one, and that is after six years of SS use and just about as many years on my fixed gear/work bike (commuter/messenger use). Cheap to replace when they wear out, and durable enough.

    I have had problems with ti stuff in the past. This had a lot to do with the fact that I was running a PC-1 on the ti rings/cogs, but I dropped a lot of chains. Now with an aluminum ring and steel/aluminum cogs I think I mighta dropped my chain once over the last three years.


    BTW: Still want ti? I've got a 34T Boone I don't need that's been sitting around for at least four years.
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  15. #15
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    My Boone ti 33t ring folded on the second ride. Bummer.

    --Sparty
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    We get old because we quit riding.

  16. #16
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    I like the Salsa rings a lot. Compared to like Rocket Rings or something like that, they hold up great. SRAM chains are great. they are relatively inexpensive and are available anywhere.
    No compromise.

  17. #17
    one chain, two sprockets
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    KMC 710 (1/8"), White Trials FW and BMX chainring:
    Tooth_n_Chain.jpg

    The BMX chainring has thick teeth (i.e. much more material), meshes well with the 710 chain (one of KMC's strongest), and the 18T trials engagement is sweet!

    Tom P.
    Last edited by one piece crank; 02-15-2010 at 12:43 PM.

  18. #18
    Really I am that slow
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    Big fan of tomi cogs (fixed) and have run a few of his rings as well.... surly has always lasted well for me... Cheap colored kmc chains for me 1/8
    Read my BLOG!

    just a guy who loves bikes and exploring

  19. #19
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    Whatever aluminum piece of garbage came on my Redline was dead in almost a year (probably didn't help that the chainring bolts all fell out and a couple teeth got chewed up on my very first ride out...thanks for torquing those down LBS!). Swapped it out with a Surly ring which is supposed to be pretty tough. One year of riding an not one single sign of wear. I also dig the simple utilitarian design with polished finish.
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  20. #20
    SyT
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    In the past I've ran Surley with Gusset chain, I ride in midwest conditions and have ran a set from March to October in the past. They looked fine when I changed them, but the upcoming ride was one of which I didn't want any preventable drivetrain issues. It is not a light set-up, but would be hard to beat dependability wise. Connex is a killer chain as well.
    Basically, if you want longevity, steel is the way to go, and since corrosion is inevitable, stainless is the viable option.
    I can get the same mileage out of three aluminum rings/light chain changes.(Two if conditions are right)

  21. #21
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    Good quality aluminum rings or steel rings are relatively inexpensive and both wear long if you run them in 1/8" instead of 3/32"... ISuckAtRiding makes some great stuff for a reasonable price - look for posts in this forum. I'll toss in another nod to KMC chains - mine have done well. I have an Aluminum 33t that came stock on my XXIX and it was almost 3 years old, with a lot of miles when I swapped it for one of ISAR's rings. My 20t (steel) rear is still going... Thousands of miles on it.
    R.I.P. Corky 10/97-4/09
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  22. #22
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    I heard "the shadow conspiracy" half link chains are sposed to bombproof
    they look pretty dope too
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Most Durable Chainring & Chain.-odysseyconspiracyv2.jpg  


  23. #23
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    If you want a long lasting chainring, Surly's steel ring will outperform easily all aluminium or titanium ones because they are both softer materials. Ofcourse it is heavier too but that's the price you have to pay for long life. And if you are looking for a good price/wearlife ratio with chains, it is better to buy good quality basic chains and replace them more often than pay superior prices for superchains that can give you perhaps 30% more miles but with a double or triple price.

  24. #24
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    The Shadow Conspiracy and other half-link chains are a JOKE. you probably won't break them, but due to the design, they stretch really fast. the bend in the plates on each link tends to stretch out. you also need a special tool to take apart that chain. a normal tool for 1/8" chains will not work.

    most bmx riders swear by the KMC z510hx chain. the 3/32" version is the z610hx. it has moderately thick side plates and mushroomed pins. the 710 "Kool" chain has been reported to stretch pretty quickly. the 710 SL is light, but i don't trust chains with tons of extra holes in them. i suspect it will stretch and break too.

    you could also get a Wipperman chain or that Izumi "super toughness" chain for the ultimate gnar factor.

  25. #25
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    Just something to keep in mind, if you want strong, dont go stainless. Most stainless chainrings out there are 300 series SS, and it bends like butter. 300 series SS has a much lower yield strength than aluminum, which is how much pressure it can take before it permenantly deforms. As for wear resistance, it will do just fine, but dont smack it on a rock. I, amung many others have tacoed stainless rings, just from normal use. Mine died just climbing a small steep grade in town.
    If you want strength and longevity, ti is the way to go, unless someone is making chainrings out of 440c or 17-4ph stainless, which i highly doubt due to the cost of it.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    Just something to keep in mind, if you want strong, dont go stainless. Most stainless chainrings out there are 300 series SS, and it bends like butter. 300 series SS has a much lower yield strength than aluminum, which is how much pressure it can take before it permenantly deforms. As for wear resistance, it will do just fine, but dont smack it on a rock. I, amung many others have tacoed stainless rings, just from normal use. Mine died just climbing a small steep grade in town.
    If you want strength and longevity, ti is the way to go, unless someone is making chainrings out of 440c or 17-4ph stainless, which i highly doubt due to the cost of it.
    surly's do tent to get outa round for me but this is after 6k of miles that i start to notice... and i've bent them a few times but have been able to cave man Mechanic them back... also for some reason 5 bolt has always worked alot better for me as well 110 or 94bcd vs 4 bolt cranks and rings tend to fold alot ezer on me... the tomi ring have alot more mattiral in them so they don't seem to go outa round on me... When your back to doing stuff i'm looked forward to trying your stuff out!
    Read my BLOG!

    just a guy who loves bikes and exploring

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    Just something to keep in mind, if you want strong, dont go stainless. Most stainless chainrings out there are 300 series SS, and it bends like butter. 300 series SS has a much lower yield strength than aluminum, which is how much pressure it can take before it permenantly deforms. As for wear resistance, it will do just fine, but dont smack it on a rock. I, amung many others have tacoed stainless rings, just from normal use. Mine died just climbing a small steep grade in town.
    If you want strength and longevity, ti is the way to go, unless someone is making chainrings out of 440c or 17-4ph stainless, which i highly doubt due to the cost of it.
    all I want to know is, how long before you will make me another red chainring?

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