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Thread: Moots!

  1. #1
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    Reputation: b2b2's Avatar
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    Moots!

    O.K. So I want to get a ti SS and can get a deal on a Moots.
    Back in the late 90's I had a 26" YBB and really liked it. Now I want a 29 SS and cant decide
    Between a YBB or hard tail for SS use. I'm 50 yrs. old so the cush of the ybb seems good, but I felt that there was a lose of pedaling efficiency while spinning fast.
    That being said Hard tail or YBB for SS use? any thoughts?
    Thanks!
    "Once you have had a wonderful dog, a life without one, is a life diminished."...Dean Koontz

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Climber999's Avatar
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    Hey...

    Inherent to single speeding is riding out of the saddle. Anything but a HT will bob. If you don't mind the sensation and the decreased efficiency, then YBB will be more comfortable under some circumstances. If you do mind, and intend to do a lot of climbing and see yourself riding a good deal out of the saddle, then a HT will suite you better.
    Last edited by Climber999; 11-05-2012 at 11:17 PM.

  3. #3
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    Reputation: Cygnus's Avatar
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    moots: you'll want to get this right, fit and hardtail v. YBB.

    if i was to get another titanium bike (have a non-moots ti road bike) i'd definitely get a hardtail frame.

    the decision is even easier for an SS bike...simplicity. and, you'll feel your investment in titanium frame with a hardtail.

  4. #4
    veinte nueve pulgadas
    Reputation: nzumbi's Avatar
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    my route

    I went the comfort route....YBB, sliders and cable stops (just in case). She's never seen a deraileur and probably never will. I hear what folks say about simplicity, but the YBB isn't terribly complicated. Also, tighten up the 6mm bolt and you have yourself a pseudo-hardtail...there's no turning a hardtail into a YBB though. Only time I've wished it was a hardtail was when I drop something that I probably shouldn't be dropping on that bike. I've bottomed it out probably 10 times over the last 3 years.

    Out of the saddle bob isn't noticeable. I'm sure there is a loss of efficiency, but it isn't significant. Small trade off that is well worth it. I try to stay seated as much as possible anyway (and my knees are fine). I'm stalling on installing the YBB rebuild kit...yet to pull the trigger, as it isn't terribly scarred up yet.

    A few things to note:
    1) If you spin @ high rpms on the flats, or on the road, you can look back and see a lot of flex. It's a give and take...that same flex makes her smooth as butter on the trail. My frame is non-custom, FWIW.
    2) If you look through the board, you'll see a few posts on chain pop. I've had this for awhile. My assumption is that the flex of the frame and the varying chainstay length based on the YBB may cause it, but I'm not 100% sure there. I recently went to 36x21 from 34x19 to increase engagement to try and minimize pop. So far, that has been sucessful. Drive train: E|P Ti chainring, HBC steel cog, and SRAM PC830 chain.

    Some days I have buyers remorse and wonder if a true hardtail would be better. I haven't taken a hardtail off road in years, so it can be challenging to truly assess the performance and ride quality increase of the YBB. Most days, I'm happier than a pig in shiz though.

  5. #5
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    I have a SS YBB 29'er and I love it. I also have a Moots layback seat post providing even more comfort.

    I'm in the saddle until the grade goes above 8% (a guess) and I don't notice any "loss of pedaling efficiency". I'm not the smoothest spinner either and a majority of my rides start with 5 miles of realitively flat pavement.

    What I do notice is less lower back pain and increased traction while climbing.


    I would definitely get the option to go geared later. If I ever go to one bike (LOL) I will ride my Moots as a SS in Arizona in the winter and geared in Colorado in the summer.

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