Monocog hubs/wheels- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Monocog hubs/wheels

    I have an older Monocog with a 110mm Redline Hub in the rear. Are there hubs out there in this size other than 48 spoke BMX hubs? Do I have any options?

  2. #2
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    track hubs are that size and come in a variety of hole patterns.

    bmx hubs as well, thay ain't all 48 spoke... ( and probably more burly with regard to off road use)

  3. #3
    French for "Suck"
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    If it's a steel Monocog you can always bend the stays a bit to take a standard-sized hub.

  4. #4
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    Have any shop that has an account with us "Seattle Bike Supply" and have them order up some hubs for you. We have 32H, 110mm OLD Disc and non-disc hubs in stock ready to go....
    Craig- Redline


    Quote Originally Posted by frontierwolf
    I have an older Monocog with a 110mm Redline Hub in the rear. Are there hubs out there in this size other than 48 spoke BMX hubs? Do I have any options?

  5. #5
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    That's good stuff. Thanks for the info.

  6. #6
    blame me for missed rides
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    come on, there are TONS of 36h bmx hubs.

  7. #7
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    Track hubs are 120mm...

    Quote Originally Posted by max-a-mill
    track hubs are that size and come in a variety of hole patterns.

    bmx hubs as well, thay ain't all 48 spoke... ( and probably more burly with regard to off road use)
    At least the bulk of those available in the US. Only keirin track hubs are 110.

  8. #8
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    More BMX questions

    Found some BMX Hubs I'm interested in but it seems like they're mainly sold in pairs. (other than the Odysseys)

    The front hubs are usually 3/8th inch axels with bolts and I was wondering if that's at all compatible with standard suspension forks? Could I convert a 3/8th axel to quick release? (I need to keep the QR in front for my bike rack) Would I just have to put it on ebay?

  9. #9
    blame me for missed rides
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    compatible. 3/8" is only slightly under 10mm. conversion to QR is hard because hollow 3/8" axle with the correct pitch is pretty rare.

  10. #10
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    Frontierwolf, What happend to your original redline hubs? Seems to me that for the price these hubs are great. They have cartrige bearings and mine roll far better than my XT hubs. If Redline sells replacement bearings it seems that they would last for ever.

  11. #11
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    More Hubs

    I'll probably go ahead and get the bearings if I can get a local shop to order them. The hub turns rough. I can feel something in there knocking when I just spin it. The current rear wheel is dished really bad but the guy who's helping me build these wheels mentioned keeping it as a backup. Rebuilding a hub might be good to learn in itself though.

    I'm going back and forth on the idea that if I'm building wheels I might as well go all new and get exactly what I want. The other side of the coin is that no matter how much I love the frame, the wheels could end up costing more than I have in the whole bike if I go all new.

  12. #12
    blame me for missed rides
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    you kidding me?

    aebike.com catalog:
    rim: sun CR19, QBP# RM8366, $26
    hub: joytech rear bmx cassette hub, HU4035, $25

    spokes--i buy from coloradocyclist, about 20 bucks shipped for DT 15ga spokes and nipples.

    the entire wheel costs like 80 bucks counting shipping and rim tape. i don't think your bike costs less than this.

  13. #13
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    I got the Mono for $200. I wouldn't even re-do the rear wheel but I hate having to keep my brakes so loose to keep them from rubbing. There's also a little tire clearance issue but I don't know if I'd change anything if the axel wasn't loose, and that thump, thump, thump wasn't there when I spin the wheel.

    This thread has been a big help though. Now I plan on just getting replacement bearings for the Redline Hub if I can, and a Mavic X517 I saw for $32. I may check that from coloradocyclist on the spokes if I can't use the old ones for some reason. I'll have to talk to the guy showing me how to build the wheel before I know about that for sure. I figure if the flange is the same then they should be ok as long as they don't weaken with age or anything.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aeroplane
    If it's a steel Monocog you can always bend the stays a bit to take a standard-sized hub.
    Wanna make sure... Are you joking? I realize steel can take some bending and beating but that much without ruinning it?

    I also own older monocog w/ 110 rear. My hub is holding up well...knock on wood...since it gets share time with others but I have looked into building a rear wheel with 32/36h bmx hub. Just go check out bikeman.com. Plenty...
    sth

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackHound
    Wanna make sure... Are you joking? I realize steel can take some bending and beating but that much without ruinning it?
    it's called cold setting. all the tubes on your frame are bent in exactly the same way, although before welding.

  16. #16
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    Two reasons for new spokes

    FIrst: is a nasty little thing called - Metal Fatigue - usually present in abundance in spokes in used wheels. As a wheelbuilder, I never use the old spokes. That would be one of those moves called - 'False Economy' which you would appreciate once the new wheel started breaking spokes.

    Second: is the fact that the new rim most likely has a different ERD than whatever the previous rim had (ERD = effective rim diameter, the diameter of the place in which the spoke heads seat) therefore necessitating different length spokes. Get DT spokes, their stainless steel seems to be of more consistent quality than any others I've used. If your friend helping you do this knows his stuff, he will have a resource to calculate the proper spoke length.
    Otherwise, here's an online spoke calculator:
    http://www.houseof3d.com/pete/applet.../appwheel.html
    The requirement is that you have all the measurements of ERD, hub flange diameter (spoke hole-to-hole), and hub flange spacing. There are some others that I don't have the addresses of that you can Google for. Sheldon Brown's site may have one. At the least, he will have a good directory to all the nomenclature which helps to clarify things in this little niche of the world.

    Quote Originally Posted by frontierwolf
    I got the Mono for $200. I wouldn't even re-do the rear wheel but I hate having to keep my brakes so loose to keep them from rubbing. There's also a little tire clearance issue but I don't know if I'd change anything if the axel wasn't loose, and that thump, thump, thump wasn't there when I spin the wheel.

    This thread has been a big help though. Now I plan on just getting replacement bearings for the Redline Hub if I can, and a Mavic X517 I saw for $32. I may check that from coloradocyclist on the spokes if I can't use the old ones for some reason. I'll have to talk to the guy showing me how to build the wheel before I know about that for sure. I figure if the flange is the same then they should be ok as long as they don't weaken with age or anything.
    Last edited by Mudflaps; 08-28-2006 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Typo

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