lock ring tool for trail???- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    lock ring tool for trail???

    You guys who are prepared to swap cogs on the trail, what tools do you carry?

  2. #2
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    How often would your change cogs mid-ride?

    If you feel the need for more than one cog, just put two cogs on your hub. That's almost a dinglespeed.

    It also depends on the hub you have. Some have a track-style lockring, which you could change with a Pedro's Trixie. No chain whip needed for that.

  3. #3
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    Another option is the Gear Clamp GearClamp - Singlespeed Conversion Kit It requires a 2.5mm Allen wrench. I got a set for my SS to give it a shot, haven't ridden it yet though.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    How often would your change cogs mid-ride?

    If you feel the need for more than one cog, just put two cogs on your hub. That's almost a dinglespeed.

    It also depends on the hub you have. Some have a track-style lockring, which you could change with a Pedro's Trixie. No chain whip needed for that.
    0-1 times per ride. For long rides, only when I tap out and need a bigger cog to get home. I realize different hubs require different tools. I have a Shimano-style free hub. I can get a lock ring with notches on the perimeter that the Trixie could grab onto.

    That clamp looks cool. I might be worried about scarring up the exposed free hub.

    Thanks for the input!

  5. #5
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    just put two cogs on your hub. space them so he chainline is dead-center between the two cogs. carrying tools and taking your lock ring off in the middle of the ride would be a waste of time.

  6. #6
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    Stein mini cassette lockring removal tool...
    Stein Tools for Hubs, Cassettes and Freewheels
    @adamalphabet

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    just put two cogs on your hub. space them so he chainline is dead-center between the two cogs. carrying tools and taking your lock ring off in the middle of the ride would be a waste of time.

    *obvious statement*

    Make sure your chain/tensioner system is long enough to accommodate both...
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  8. #8
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    dooooood

    you need this. 2 speed, freewheel, kickshift

    Sturmey-Archer | S2 Black

    Gear 1 - 100% (Direct Drive)
    Gear 2 - 138% (Gear 1 + 38%)
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    dooooood

    you need this. 2 speed, freewheel, kickshift

    Sturmey-Archer | S2 Black

    Gear 1 - 100% (Direct Drive)
    Gear 2 - 138% (Gear 1 + 38%)
    Sold!

  10. #10
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    I'd consider a Problem Solvers 6 bolt cog carrier. I've always been a bit dubious about the quality of their stuff but after getting their Zinger XD driver adapter, I was completely blown away at the quality of the product.

    Their 6 bolt would allow using their relatively cheap stamped cogs and would allow swapping without removing the lockring (just undo the 6 bolts).

  11. #11
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    If you want just a small change, you can probably use one chainring and two cogs. If you want two drastically different gears, look into a dinglespeed setup.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by babybabe View Post
    You guys who are prepared to swap cogs on the trail, what tools do you carry?
    A derailer

  13. #13
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    Umm it's a singlespeed, you should just plan on being in the wrong gear most of the time and grunt it out like the rest of us.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Squirrel View Post
    A derailer
    Bwahahaha

    Don't go and derail the topic!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by babybabe View Post
    0-1 times per ride. For long rides, only when I tap out and need a bigger cog to get home. I realize different hubs require different tools. I have a Shimano-style free hub. I can get a lock ring with notches on the perimeter that the Trixie could grab onto.

    That clamp looks cool. I might be worried about scarring up the exposed free hub.

    Thanks for the input!
    How long of a ride are we talking about?

    I know I regularly do rides in the 60-90(8-10k') mile range, and have never thought about changing the cog for the ride home.

    It is part of riding the SS....you make a compromise your your gearing. Either make it too hard to climb, and have some top end later....or make it easier to climb, but spin on the flats later.

    For me and long rides....I generally gear my bike for later in the ride, which means I'll spin more early on, so I have some legs left at the end.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikej View Post
    How long of a ride are we talking about?

    I know I regularly do rides in the 60-90(8-10k') mile range, and have never thought about changing the cog for the ride home.

    It is part of riding the SS....you make a compromise your your gearing. Either make it too hard to climb, and have some top end later....or make it easier to climb, but spin on the flats later.

    For me and long rides....I generally gear my bike for later in the ride, which means I'll spin more early on, so I have some legs left at the end.
    Thanks for the great advice. I figured the vast majority does not carry an emergency gear but was curious about what those that do use to swap the gears. In terms of distance, "long" rides of 50-60 miles to start, which is 4-6 hours for me around here, depending. At the time of the original post, I had zero SS mtb rides under my belt but plenty of geared rides (especially on the road) where I was tapped before the end of the ride. But after one SS ride most of my apprehensions have faded. Thanks for the thoughts and the suggestions! (Especially "derailleur"... )

  17. #17
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    The only issue related to this that I've ever had was cramps so bad that I physically couldn't pedal up hill anymore. In those cases though, a slightly larger cog wouldn't have made a big enough difference.

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