a little handholding with rear wheel mouting please..- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    a little handholding with rear wheel mouting please..

    Hi,
    I've read a bunch of threads here about quick-release axles and how they slip (or not), chain tugs, etc.

    It started with getting a Soma 4one5 frame off eBay, then I threw whatever parts I had at it, bought whatever was missing off CL.. About $300 into it overall I think. Then I realized I can't just put the rear wheel on like usual. My LBS recommended Surly Tuggnut on the chain side. I got that ($30, ugh!). The brake side is now slipping back from track forks. Broke two skewers, and the Shimano one tightened by jumping up and down on the lever doesn't do the trick, it still creeps out just from riding around the block and jumping some stairs and ledges on pavement.

    The wheel is new off a Giant Reign 2, hub says "Cerit DT Swiss". My understanding is that getting a solid 10mm axle is the ultimate solution. Can't figure out if there's a conversion kit for it, how can I tell?

    Also, I don't want to spend much more money on this thing so I'm thinking of either just making aluminum plates that will work like Tuggnut but I can bolt the back of the plate to the braze-on that is right at the end of the fork, and drill a hole exactly where I want the skewer axle to go for gearing I'm using. That should stop the thing from moving, anyone tried this?

    Also, will just using a plate like that (I'm thinking $15/pair BMX chain adjusters) hold the axle by just increasing the surface area?

    Thanks, sorry for newb questions but I'm getting a bit lost in terminology and options and getting anxious to go ride the damn thing already. Trying to swallow a bit much in one bite I guess.

    Here's a pic of the bike as it sits now:


  2. #2
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    Forgot to mention I've only got 145lbs in me so seems like it doesn't take much for the wheel to move around.

  3. #3
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    I have Redline BMX tugs on my bike. 12 bucks a pair and my QR has never moved. I'm 170lbs and bash it pretty hard.

  4. #4
    The need for singlespeed
    Reputation: zaskaranddriver's Avatar
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    Those 4one5s sure look sharp with black parts. I'd ditch the reflector and the bashgard but otherwise nice looking build!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zaskaranddriver
    Those 4one5s sure look sharp with black parts. I'd ditch the reflector and the bashgard but otherwise nice looking build!
    Thanks! Honestly I'm more of a "real skiers don't color coordinate" school but it just happened this way all the parts are black, I like it too! Gonna ditch the reflector for sure. My other bike (Kona Stuff) has a big plastic bash guard and I "use" it on regular basis by the looks of it. Will the chainring hold up to being slammed on some roots and rocks?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tstess
    I have Redline BMX tugs on my bike. 12 bucks a pair and my QR has never moved. I'm 170lbs and bash it pretty hard.
    Don't they have the wrong size axle hole?

  7. #7
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    Reputation: campredcloudbikes's Avatar
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    just get a Shimano quick release and tighten it down well. a bit of light sanding on the droupouts will help, and may as well put the tugnut on there since you have it.... by the way, chain tensioners like that can be had for a few bucks, it isn't really a complicated part. I have Shimano qr's on my Fisticuff and Jabberwocky, lots of hard miles and big hills, both singlespeed and geared, no chain tensioner, no slippage, ever. Years ago I did singlespeed with a cheap trans X qr, and had slippage issues, so promptly converted to solid axle. with the shimano qr this is unnecessary.

  8. #8
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    I take it that the tugnut has solved the problem of the driveside moving forward but you still have the issue of the brake side moving back as a reaction to braking forces?

    It's for this very reason that some manufacturers (On-One for example) mount the caliper between the chain stay and seat stay, so that the torque reaction isn't trying to pull the wheel backwards. It'll be worse if you are doing stuff like dropping off steps and landing with the back brake applied.

    Other than doing what other people have suggested (Shimano skewer, removing paint etc) I think that probably you're going to have to go to a bolt type hub if you're still having problems.

  9. #9
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    Yea like i said I broke a couple skewers and the shimano one (internal) didn't seem to work. I attempted to convert the hub to solid axle using an axle I got from LBS today, but the axle that was in the hub has two bosses inside which looks like the inner races of the main ball bearings push into. The axle I got is just a straight rod with threading, and it didn't work that well (wheel either wobbles or binds).

    I'll rough up the forks a little and use an even meaner skewer I found, maybe with some copper washers that will bind them together even better. Not the solution I prefer but if it works like you guys suggest it's all good.

  10. #10
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    BTW, bathroom scale says bike is about 27lbs as it sits, not exactly light. I rode it at the Collonade a little and was surprised how it being rigid isn't really bothering me that much.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy R
    I take it that the tugnut has solved the problem of the driveside moving forward but you still have the issue of the brake side moving back as a reaction to braking forces?

    It's for this very reason that some manufacturers (On-One for example) mount the caliper between the chain stay and seat stay, so that the torque reaction isn't trying to pull the wheel backwards. It'll be worse if you are doing stuff like dropping off steps and landing with the back brake applied.

    Other than doing what other people have suggested (Shimano skewer, removing paint etc) I think that probably you're going to have to go to a bolt type hub if you're still having problems.
    x2,bolt ons work best but I have used Shimano XT's QR's before and didn't have a problem.

  12. #12
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    Actually now that I think about it I can try to put a spacer in there that will mimic the axle bosses (piece of pipe of the right length) and keep the solid axle. Is that a reasonable idea?

  13. #13
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    Update: the axle was actually slightly smaller diameter so I didn't continue to mess with it.

    Serrated the forks a bit with a dremel and put the wheel back on with a QR, so far so good, stays in one place. I also noticed that a larger rod would fit through the hollow axle so maybe I'll just find a burlier rod and thread that on to be sure it stays in once place.

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