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  1. #1
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    lightening the Monocog

    i have a 17" 2010 monocog 26". i think it could be a bit lighter and it's at about 28 pounds now. it's mostly stock, but i re-built the wheels with double-butted spokes, changed the tires a few times, put s Chris King headset on it, and some SPD pedals. i think i could loose some decent weight in the fork, the cranks, and the rims. the bike came with Alex DH-19 rims, a chromoly fork, and some basic single-speed square taper cranks. the frame alone weighs a little over six pounds, but i am not sure about the fork. where should i start without going full-blown weight weenie?

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  2. #2
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    XT cranks, new wheelset, Thomson stem/seat post, on and on. Just depends how much money you want to spend.

  3. #3
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    looking up a few things:

    Alex DH-19 rims are 615 grams each. there are some good rims out there that are not terribly expensive but half the weight. i can build my own wheels and if i can find some with a close enough ERD, i can just rebuild with the spokes that are on there now, less than six months old.

    RL chromo fork: 2.14 pounds

    frame: 6.13 pounds

    cranks are Truvativ SS square-tapers, probably heavy.

    what would give me the most weight-savings for my buck to start out?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle
    what would give me the most weight-savings for my buck to start out?
    If you're wanting it to actually feel light while riding, rather than just having a nice number when it's on the scale, do the rims/tyres/tubes first. Biggest noticeable weight/performance gain for the buck.

    Cranks next, plenty of cheaper/lighter eBay specials out there no doubt.

    Stock seatpost/stem/bars are usualy boat anchors too.
    Ride.

  5. #5
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    I have a monocog that I've thought about upgrading, but in the end, you're upgrading a monocog. Mine isn't close to stock- still cheap components- and while it isn't light (25ish for a 17"), it feels great to ride.

    The only upgrade I've considered is a carbon fork.

    I agree on the ghetto tubeless.

  6. #6
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    If you love the way it rides, why not upgrade it? Assuming you stick with a 29 SS, most of the parts will easily swap to another lighter frame (wheels, brakes, cranks, most noticeably). It will never be an uber-light ride, but bringing down the initial heft isn't such a bad thing IMO.

    I agree with wheels/tires as the first and best place to start losing weight.
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  7. #7
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    Wheels & tires. I wouldn't spend too much upgrading the cog though. If you love the way it rides, you should try and find a Monocog Flight. You will get upgraded everything for less than you could end up spending on components. The ride quality of the Sanko steel frame is better IMHO and weighs less than the standard cog.

    Not the answer you are looking for, but I don't see the good in throwing a bunch of weight weenie parts at a 6ld steel frame.
    "There are those who would say there's something pathological about the need to ride, and they're probably on to something. I'd wager though that most of the society-approved compulsions leave deeper scars in the psyche than a need to go and ride a bicycle on a mountain." Cam McRea

  8. #8
    jdg
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    You can pick up a nice set of used ss 26" wheels which should drop off a lot of weight. The stock seatpost is pretty heavy too. Some lighter tires. Look for used deals.

  9. #9
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    thanks for the advice folks.

    btw, i ride the 26" cog, and they don't make a 26" Flite anymore, or i would have purchased that. so there is not a lot i can do to make is significantly lighter, just upgrade a few parts here and there. i'll ride this until it's dead, which will take 30 years at the rate it's going!

    one point of confusion though, according to Hawley (distributor of bicycle parts), the DH-19 rims weigh 615 grams each, which seems pretty heavy. but Alex' website says the rims weigh 520 grams each. has Alex changed the design of the rim to make it lighter? if i have an older, heavier rim, getting lighter rims would help. but if they are as light as Alex says they are, i don't think it would be worthwhile to replace them.

  10. #10
    jdg
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    The hubs are pretty heavy.

  11. #11
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    Eno Ti Square taper FTW
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  12. #12
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    Don't listen to people who tell you your bike isn't worth upgrading. If you like your frame, go nuts. I have over $1,700 into my monocog and just love it more than ever. And when the day comes when I do upgrade the frame, I will put all the original parts back on it and have a great loaner/backup bike. IMO, FWIW

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint
    Don't listen to people who tell you your bike isn't worth upgrading. If you like your frame, go nuts. I have over $1,700 into my monocog and just love it more than ever. And when the day comes when I do upgrade the frame, I will put all the original parts back on it and have a great loaner/backup bike. IMO, FWIW
    It's not that it's dumb, it's just that it's more expensive to get to the same weight (if you even can) than starting with a lighter frame.

    Lightweight OEM platform is the least expensive way to launch into building a light bike, even though the initial investment is higher.

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  14. #14
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    ok, fair enough. but i just bought this bike and it would be stupid to buy another bike after buying something a few months ago, especially on my meager income. i don't need a weight weenie bike, i just want to upgrade a few things gradually to make it a little less tank-ish.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle
    ok, fair enough. but i just bought this bike and it would be stupid to buy another bike after buying something a few months ago, especially on my meager income. i don't need a weight weenie bike, i just want to upgrade a few things gradually to make it a little less tank-ish.
    Then your next post should be in the wheels & tires section here on MTBR, as other's have stated. If you have to wait and save then so be it. It WILL be the biggest change and the most notable.
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  16. #16
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    Deffinately start with wheels. My DH 19's felt like they were made of lead.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint
    Deffinately start with wheels. My DH 19's felt like they were made of lead.
    If you want you can borrow the wheelset off my Huffy and see if you DH 19s still feel porky.

  18. #18
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    i have some new rims coming. building the wheels with DB spokes and Mavic XM 517's will take nearly a pound of weight off my wheels.

    OK, it seems i have become a neurotic weight weenie. fortunately, i cannot afford to tons of money on expensive new stuff, so i am going to gradually whittle down the weight of my bike. i foolishly weighed it the other day and it was a little over 29 pounds! even from the perspective of a non-WW, that's a heavy rigid SS. i had a lot of time on my hands, so i started taking things off of it and weighing them individually. here's what i found:

    *Redline 26.8 post- 330 grams. i could easily loose 1/4 pound there without buying a fancy carbon post.

    *Syncros bars- 400 grams. i have seen many good alu bars in the sub-200g range, so that would be easy.

    *Syncros stem- 190 grams. Thomson stems are all listed at about 170g, so i can't make a huge change there.

    Redline chromoly fork- 1290 grams. i checked with some other chromoly forks and this one seems only a little heavy. i don't want exotic materials and i don't want to risk running a weak fork, so this will stay. plus the paint matches the frame.

    *front tire: Kenda Kinetics 2.35 - 700 grams advertised.

    *rear tire: WTB Exiwolf 2.1- 640 grams advertised.

    *regular tubes and Slime. without going tubeless, would lighter tires, thin race tubes, and Slime be reliable?

  19. #19
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    Wow, that fork is fairly heavy. I picked up my White Brothers for $274 shipped. Its an 09 but really nothing has changed on them. I know you don't want to go exotic but dang! My fork weighs right about 700g's!

    I'm not riding tubeless though I have thought about doing a stans kit. I will agree that my wheels made a huge difference in weight along with dumping my shock and going rigid. Next would be my cranks. I picked up a used set of XTR's off ebay for under $100. That shaved right about 600 grams over the stock Truvativ Howitzer/Blaze cranks I took off. The XTR crank, w/ ring, and bb weighed 650 grams! I think the stock crank was right around 1200 grams w/ bb, ring and bash guard. Just rediculous.

    You are right in that there isn't too much to be saved in the stem but the seat, seat post and bars will help as well.

    I am also only riding a 2.1 in front and a 1.95 in rear. My terrain is not that bad so I can get away with it though I think the 2.3 would add some nice squish to the rigid front end.

    I have a steel GT Peace. I never weighed it from the begining as I swaped out the front end as soon as I got home along with the bars, stem, seat/post, hs, tire. But the bike is now down to 22.6 lbs. I am thinking I will drop a tad off that when the new XTR cranks arrive that have been reworked by Crazy8. Not much mind you but some anyway. I will reweigh it then as I have also changed out my brake levers to a set of Pauls. Hopefully I will hit 22 even or even very high 21.

    I have dumped a bunch of money into this bike at this point. I mean, my wheelset cost me more than I paid for the bike brand new. I love it though and really only wish that it was a ti frame. It may turn into that one day but right now I am happy to say that I am done with the build unless something else breaks! If you like the ride then enjoy it!
    Last edited by 1SPD; 06-30-2010 at 09:55 AM.

  20. #20
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    the new wheelset will make a huge difference in performance. your fork is light compared to a squishy, but it is a heavyweight for a rigid. my Rock Shox Reba 29 is listed at 1620g.

    my GT Peace 9r weighs just under 26lbs with not too many fancy components. i have a lighter bar and stem, new lighter/stronger hubs, and a new seatpost en route, so we'll see how low i can get it then.

    my crankset is currently XTR 970 and it is hugely more lightweight than the Truvativ Howitzer/Blaze that came off. i think it came to about one pound.

    depending on your terrain and how hard you ride, you could try some lightweight tires like Racing Ralphs or Bontrager XR1s. they're prone to flats, but like others have said, the most noticeable performance gain will be from less mass and in turn less centripetal force.

    you can save a lot of weight in your saddle/post/bar. your stem is not too bad, neither are your tires. it just depends how much of a weight weenie you allow yourself to become.

  21. #21
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    29lbs for a SS 26er?? That's pretty heavy. I just built up the wife's On One 26er SS with mediocre parts and it's at 24lbs. That's with a heavy Black fork, too.

    You can pick up a Surly 1x1 fork new for $53 (jensonusa). It's 200 grams lighter, and it'll probably be a little more compliant as well.

    No brainer on the seat post - Thomson. The stock seat is heafty, too, so chuck that and get something decent. On my MC, I just bought a $20 take off from my LBS that I swear weighs half of the stock seat.

  22. #22
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    Get yourself some light, fast tires. Maybe wheels eventually if you really want to. I like to change saddles and bars as well. Other than that, might as well leave it be. Weight weenie builds on stout/budget conscious frames can really get expensive and still leave you with a heavy bike. Just embrace it and enjoy it.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by p nut
    29lbs for a SS 26er?? That's pretty heavy. I just built up the wife's On One 26er SS with mediocre parts and it's at 24lbs. That's with a heavy Black fork, too.
    Serious. My rigid SS inbred is 23.5 with mediocre parts. 7.5 pound difference... i think i would just start over; every part has to be pretty porky to get the weight that high.
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  24. #24
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    i don't "need" a light bike. weighing it in the first place was a bad idea because i was happy with it before i knew it was a brick. i am not racing or anything, i just think it's way overbuilt for what i am doing with it and my size.

    i appreciate that it's strong enough for most anything i can throw at it, so i will leave it be for now. i am used to building up custom bmx bikes to my liking one part at a time, so i think i'll just ride the hell out of this and replace a part here and there when i have the extra money or i break something. i am not going to just buy a new bike, i have already invested too much in this one with new Mavic rims and double-butted spokes, Chris King headset, tires, chainring, disc brakes, etc.

    i think this discussion has given me a good idea what to replace next if weight is concerned. eventually the frame and fork will be replaced as well, but i am going to just keep having fun riding in the meantime and having fun on my tank. thanks for the input.

  25. #25
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    update:

    i replaced a few things on my bike-
    *Mavic xm517 rims- i relaced these with the DB spokes i already had on the wheels and they worked perfectly. I got a good $ deal on these.
    *Thomson seatpost- traded this for some old handlbars I had. new Thomson post for about $8 shipping to cover the trade.
    *Conti Race King 2.2 tires- a co-worker gave these to me.
    *Bontrager superlite tubes + Slime. i wanted lighter tubes but protection, so the Slime will weigh be down a bit. thin tubes and Slime seemed like a good compromise.
    *Surly 1x1 fork- took about 1/2 pound off my front end.

    the bike weighs 26.75 pounds now, with most of the weight loss from the wheels. the only things i could upgrade to bring it down now would be the cranks, handlebars, seat, and frame. I'll keep looking for XT cranks online and maybe get a new light steel frame some day, but i'll just ride and enjoy it in the meantime.

  26. #26
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    XTR cranks. buy them used, save a ton of money, and some weight.

  27. #27
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    Even XT cranks would work.
    Speaking of the Monocog I just built up a Misfit dissent (Fe) and honestly I like my Monocog a lot better.
    I'm taking everything off my Misfit putting it on the Monocog selling the $1300 frame/fork and putting the $$$ in my pocket with a smile.

    If you like the frame upgrade it. I learned a lesson.

  28. #28
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    look for LX or SLX external cranks, not much heavier than the XT's, the big weight difference between XT and the SLX are the chain rings
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint
    I have over $1,700 into my monocog
    lol

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by cr45h
    lol
    Profound contribution to the topic........ A$$HOLE !!

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