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  1. #1
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    Karate monkey MDS chip prob...

    Hi all- I just built up my Karate Monkey as a single speed with the MDS chip. On the drive side, I have a Surly Tugnut installed. When I brake, the wheel shifts to the left, the tire hits the frame. The non drive side is moving back a bit. I am using Deore hydro brakes. I've tried the shimano skewer, Delta and Halo locking skewers, and the DT RWS ratchet skewer...all without success. I talked with QBP today and they had no ideas other than what I've tried. Have any of you had this prob or have any ideas?

    Thanks
    Just get out ride it & have fun!

  2. #2
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    Change out the axle to bolt on. I have XT hubs that I did this to for use on a gen 1 soma b side with horizontal dropouts. I read about people having the same problem on the soma as you have. I have had no problems with slipping and I also have shimano hydros, SLXs.

    Wheels manufacturing makes the axle.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthernMN View Post
    Hi all- I just built up my Karate Monkey as a single speed with the MDS chip. On the drive side, I have a Surly Tugnut installed. When I brake, the wheel shifts to the left, the tire hits the frame. The non drive side is moving back a bit. I am using Deore hydro brakes. I've tried the shimano skewer, Delta and Halo locking skewers, and the DT RWS ratchet skewer...all without success. I talked with QBP today and they had no ideas other than what I've tried. Have any of you had this prob or have any ideas?

    Thanks
    You could try a chain tug on both sides. I've used this set up when running gears on my KM and it worked, but am able to get away with just the drive side and the older Shimano QR running my KM SS without any slipping.

  4. #4
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    Hi--thanks for taking the time to respond. However, I don't think your suggestions will work for me.

    Ken--that is a great idea, but I have a Stan's wheel/hub with cartridge bearings so I don't think your plan will work. I assume I'd need a hub with cones/balls for that...

    Bruce---your idea is also good, however, my wheel is moving backwards. Tugnuts keep things from going forward only...
    Just get out ride it & have fun!

  5. #5
    Always Learning
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthernMN View Post
    Bruce---your idea is also good, however, my wheel is moving backwards. Tugnuts keep things from going forward only...
    Yes, but I had the same issue with the non-drive slide slipping rearwards which led me to try the double tug nuts and it prevented the non-drive side from slipping from the torsional forces. I will say, it's a bit of a pain in the Arsch to get the rear wheel off and on with double tugs when you only have two hands, but it did the trick for me at the time. I'm now on a different KM that is doing well (knock on wood) with just one tug and the Shimano old fashioned QR.

    Have you "roughed up" the paint on the non drive side for the clamp to bite?

  6. #6
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    Paint is roughed up...just from trying...lol. Anyway, I talked with Surly. They said to use a steel QR and a hub sub with steel serrated lock washers. The MDS chips were tested with Shimano skewers and hubs and worked great. Other than that (steel on steel), they recommended a bolt on hub.

    I have tried steel QR's. I'm not sure if my Stans hub has a steel or Alu locknut, I didn't have time to check yesterday. I'll check that out today and go from there. If that isn't steel, I'm wasting my time, the Alu won't bite into the hardened steel chip....
    Just get out ride it & have fun!

  7. #7
    nothing to see here
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    Other than ditching the frame for something with vertical dropouts, there's not much more you can do other than lace in a hub that uses bolts rather than QR. Check out Hope's offerings. Pro 2 EVO Trials/Single Speed rear hub | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  8. #8
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    I don't use the surly tug nuts any more, but I thought they held the rear axle in either direction. I liked running them on both sides. My kid still rides it that way!

  9. #9
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    Get some 135x10 axle caps and a 10mm thru axle in your hub. I have a Hadley axle in my Stans hub and it never slipped when my frame had track ends.

  10. #10
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    Thanks all. I'm definitely going to go with a bolt on hub. I just need to figure out which one....
    Just get out ride it & have fun!

  11. #11
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    if you want to save yourself the trouble and money, just put a thru axle in your hub like I suggested.

  12. #12
    steel is real
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    Mack makes a great point... I've got an American classic rear hub with a 135x10mm thru axle and it slipped the same way until I found the Hadley bolt-on thru axle and I haven't had a problem since! 10mm thru axle end caps for your current hub and the bolt-on thru axle from Hadley would be cheaper than buying a bolt-on hub and relacing the wheel.
    ride dirt.

  13. #13
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    Another option for you would be to convert the Stan's hubs to 142 x 12 through and upgrade to the MDS 12 mm horizontal chips. I am running these on my geared Instigator and am thinking of doing a new KM single speed build around them. I run the surly bolt on 12 mm axle and the rear end is very tight. With a qr on the old system I had issues with the rear wheel rocking a bit. No movement now.
    "Don't take life too serious. You'll never get out alive."

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