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  1. #1
    Space Ghost
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    I am a blasphemer

    I love riding my SS, I have always enjoyed the simplicity. However, I don't think I can deal with chain tensioners any longer! I don't have a high dollar budget for my SS. I had a Voodoo Dambala, that I really liked. But I kept getting the rear wheel to slip in the sliding dropouts. I ride my SS the same places I ride my FS. I admit that I am harsh on my bikes. Now I have a Soul Cycles Dillinger with an EBB. I like the idea of the EBB, but again, the execution is just not up to the task. I have followed the myriad of posts here about fixes, but none that I can do have helped. I don't huck my SS, but I do air it out when possible, and a lot of the climbs are very torque inducing. I am probably a blasphemer for considering this, but would a dedicated geared frame with a YESS ETR/B be a more consistent performer? Or would they fold under the pressure? I am thinking of an EMD, or Bandersnatch (if I go back to steel). One of the main reasons I love SS is the simplicity, but I spend more time messing with chain tensioning issues than any FS bike I have had. Any constructive thoughts are welcome.
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  2. #2
    Drinking the Slick_Juice
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    lets try sipping a little more water from now on, you never go full kool-aid
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  3. #3
    MTB NOLA
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    Oh, Yeaahhh!!!!
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  4. #4
    Really I am that slow
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    how about good old track ends alla surly, on one, vassago jabberwonky?
    Read my BLOG!

    just a guy who loves bikes and exploring

  5. #5
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    nothing wrong with a GOOD tensioner. vertical dropouts arent so blasphemous.

    have you tried lock tite and a little more wrench force?? if things keep slipping thats my first shot. SS bikes should be set and forget bikes, sucks your having troubles. good luck man
    no chain no gain.

  6. #6
    I'm gonna have to kill ya
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    Horizontal dropouts ftw!!!

  7. #7
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    ebb's

    have you tried a different EBB, say a bushnell, in your shell?

  8. #8
    Space Ghost
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    The frame was very inexpensive. If I have to spend half the cost of the frame to "fix" the problem, that is just more irritating. I know it is too much to ask, but if I absolutely knew that would be a permanent fix, I would do it. But there are no guarantees. The other thing is I do switch cogs depending on the trails I am going to ride (32x17, 32x20), so I do need to be able to adjust the EBB. I guess I am really asking if a "good" tensioner on a geared frame is more reliable than sliders or EBB's.
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  9. #9
    Plastic homer
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    One more vote for track ends.They make everything you want to do easy.

  10. #10
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    I had a Voodoo Dambala that wouldn't stop slipping, so I feel your pain.
    Get an On-One with horizontal dropouts.
    They are really inexpensive, even with shipping from the UK.
    Throw a chain tug like the Surly Tugnut on it and use a bolt on hub and I seriously doubt that you will ever have any wheel slippage ever again.

  11. #11
    AZ
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    A vote for horizontal dropouts and a chain tug .

  12. #12
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    My vote is the an Eno Eccentric hub. They hold really well and look great. Plus, you don't have any weird bits danging off your bike. The big draw for me is I can make a proper single speed out of any geared frame.

  13. #13
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    I have a Soul Cycles Hooligan ("little" brother to your bike) and the EBB has been just OK. I had thought about the bushnell option, and also the Carver option (probably would have chosen Carver) but ended up getting a new bike and thus stopped tinkering with the Hooligan. Right now I have a geared frame with a Renen tensioner and I have to say I have much more confidence in the tensioner. It's just easier to set-up. It may not be "pure" but it works really well. I run SS to save my drivetrain from the nasty winter weather. I still have the Hooligan for a future project because the frame is a REALLY nice frame (just will switch to a better EBB option when I rebuild it).

  14. #14
    mtbr member
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    I have been using a phil wood EBB on my IF for 2 years, no squeak and no slip to date

  15. #15
    Space Ghost
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    I am more concerned with the confidence factor than the purest factor. When I am climbing a particularly nasty section, I want to KNOW that my drivetrain isn't going to slip.
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  16. #16
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    The only frames Eno Eccentrics have ever been known to move on are titanium frames. Apparently, titanium is more slippery than other materials.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coach417
    I am more concerned with the confidence factor than the purest factor. When I am climbing a particularly nasty section, I want to KNOW that my drivetrain isn't going to slip.
    Stop pedalling so hard.
    '14 Scott Genius 730 650b
    '16 Heller Bloodhound rigid

  18. #18
    Retro Grouch
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    I'm guessing your problem is the set screw EBB and an aluminum frame. I looked around and with the exception of your frame (Soul Cycles Dillinger), all the other aluminum frames use a wedge bolt (Bushnell) style. These include Salsa, GF, Cannondale, Ventana, Trek and Santa Cruz. While I have never used a wedge bolt style EBB, my understanding is they hold very well, but tend to creak if not kept clean. I can't guarantee the wedge bolt will work for you, but with some pretty high end bikes using them with aluminum frames and Dillinger being the only bike manufacturer I've found that uses a set screw with aluminum, the odds are a wedge bolt EBB would solve your problem.
    Just one more rep and I get the toaster!

  19. #19
    Space Ghost
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    Quote Originally Posted by aka brad
    I'm guessing your problem is the set screw EBB and an aluminum frame. I looked around and with the exception of your frame (Soul Cycles Dillinger), all the other aluminum frames use a wedge bolt (Bushnell) style. These include Salsa, GF, Cannondale, Ventana, Trek and Santa Cruz. While I have never used a wedge bolt style EBB, my understanding is they hold very well, but tend to creak if not kept clean. I can't guarantee the wedge bolt will work for you, but with some pretty high end bikes using them with aluminum frames and Dillinger being the only bike manufacturer I've found that uses a set screw with aluminum, the odds are a wedge bolt EBB would solve your problem.

    Thanks for the response. It makes sense. I am finding out now that some of these frames may have an ovalized BB shell. I will check that this weekend. I imagine if that is the case, then it will have to be returned.
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  20. #20
    i also unicycle
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    A vote for horizontal dropouts and a chain tug .
    never had a slip on my monocog like this. also, a bolt on rear hub could help.
    mtbr says you should know: i work in a bike shop.
    bikes & beers (on my blog) http://idontrideenough.blogspot.com/

  21. #21
    Is that Bill rated?
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    Constant struggle

    I have agonized about this issue for so long and had so many problems that it has become a bit of a joke with my riding partners. I regularly get the "I thought singlespeeds were supposed to be low maintenance." jibe from my friends. The only set up with which I have been able to finish a ride sporting the same tension that I started with has been horizontals with a chain tug, but the disc side likes to shift under braking on those.
    The only trouble free singlespeeds I have run have been geared frames run with my Melvin from Paul. I know this is appallingly against the grain around here, but if I was doing a custom singlespeed frame I would build it around that tensioning option and have a drivetrain that never needs adjusting together with fixed geometry.
    Well, it was a good try.

  22. #22
    Retro Grouch
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Humongous
    The only trouble free singlespeeds I have run have been geared frames run with my Melvin from Paul. I know this is appallingly against the grain around here, but if I was doing a custom singlespeed frame I would build it around that tensioning option and have a drivetrain that never needs adjusting together with fixed geometry.
    I would add a SS frame with a split shell EBB. No other EBB works as well and the rest of the bike is standard; however it takes a little more work to build (the frame maker has to split the BB shell himself and brase on the bolt bosses) and can only be used on a steel frame. Other than that I would agree that a derialleur (or Melvin) does the best job of tensioning a chain
    Just one more rep and I get the toaster!

  23. #23
    Ovaries on the Outside
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    Hos or tensioners. I like the horizontals the best.

  24. #24
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    Bolt on axel is good but

    Quote Originally Posted by Thor29
    I had a Voodoo Dambala that wouldn't stop slipping, so I feel your pain.
    Get an On-One with horizontal dropouts.
    They are really inexpensive, even with shipping from the UK.
    Throw a chain tug like the Surly Tugnut on it and use a bolt on hub and I seriously doubt that you will ever have any wheel slippage ever again.
    with the Surly chain tug skewers work fine.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
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    How does the Surly chain tug attach to a typical frame?

  26. #26
    Drinking the Slick_Juice
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    does anyone have any pics of surly chain tugs on semi horizontal frames?
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  27. #27
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    The only frames Eno Eccentrics have ever been known to move on are titanium frames. Apparently, titanium is more slippery than other materials.
    I had an ENO slip consistently on hardened, chromed steel dropouts. It just couldn't bite into the material at all. And I know others have had similar experiences.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
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    I have not tried it on an EBB, but try using either thread anti-seize or pipe thread sealant (pipe dope) on the EBB interface with the frame instead of grease. Both will still prevent corrosion and creaking, but are not slippery like grease. I have used both of them on threaded BB's that kept coming loose, slipping seatposts, and a few other interfaces that are usually greased.

    If you feel the need for a new frame, as several have mentioned, horizontal track ends with tensioners will definitely not slip. Use tensioners on both sides. Or get a frame with sliding dropouts that has tensioner screws. The tensioner screws are the same concept and track ends with tensioners and the axle cannot slip forward.

  29. #29
    Space Ghost
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    I ordered a Carver EBB. I will report back after some use. If it doesn't work real well, I will be getting rid of the frame.
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  30. #30
    Expert Crasher
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    Quote Originally Posted by agabriel
    How does the Surly chain tug attach to a typical frame?
    It doesn't 'attach', you slide the QR or bolt through the hole and tighten a thumb screw which is threaded to a 'stop' which pushes on the track end. Pretty simple setup.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/NZAkN9zypOSFh4wq6bAcgA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.ggpht.com/_2W6rELw9q40/SyYme5wVeeI/AAAAAAAADpU/LQUGYCM-ELw/s800/IMG_4417.JPG" /></a>
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  31. #31
    agu
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coach417
    I ordered a Carver EBB. I will report back after some use. If it doesn't work real well, I will be getting rid of the frame.
    Hi Coach! Is your Dillinger the latest generation (Gen3), with the anodized EBBs? If not, maybe you can contact Chad @ Soul and see if they can offer a solution to the slippage.

    I read that they improved the EBB from the previous generation.

  32. #32
    Space Ghost
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    Honestly, I'm not sure if it is G2 or G3. If it is still a set screw type, I'll pass. I really like the frame. I am hopeful the carver will be the fix.
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  33. #33
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    Looking forward to review! It may be helpful to me for the future.

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