HT-01 for Cost Effective Build?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    HT-01 for Cost Effective Build?

    Since getting back into biking I've been doing a lot of wrenching and it is time to build up a bike from scratch. I'm planning a single speed for two reasons:

    1. Always wanted to try it, and my local trails are perfect for it
    2. Help keep the costs down so I can spend the money where it matters

    I've heard good reviews of the HT-01 as a basic frame: HT-01 at Chain Reaction

    Should come in under 5lbs which seems a reasonable start.

    Seems cheap I know, but I'd like to put the money where it counts - in the wheel set. Don't have it spec'd yet but will build the rear with an eccentric hub.

    From there I'll slowly source the lightest components I can to keep the weight down, either on sale or new take-offs. I'd like to have everything ready for final installation by Christmas.

    Remember that I want to build this from scratch. I know I could probably get a monocog or some other bike for cheaper, but that's not the point. If I love it I can upgrade the frame in the future but I want to start with the best components I can.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Heck, for that price, why not? The only other frame I can think of for like $200 is the On One Inbred, but that is steel, 29er, and has steeper XC geo than what you're looking at.

    One potential limiter on that frame is the rear drop outs. They're 135mm QRs. I still have that spec, and don't mind it, but if you plan to upgrade the frame down the road, you may want to select a rear hub that can be converted to a through axle so you can reuse the wheel set.

    You can also tension the chain with an eccentric bottom bracket rather than an eccentric hub, which would give you more hub options.

    And if boost spacing is something you may care to have someday, then that's a consideration, too...
    "Never trust a man in a blue trench coat. Never drive a car when you're dead." -- Tom Waits

  3. #3
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    I've heard about and tried to find an On-One frame in the US, but keep coming up empty. Where do you buy those?

    Also, for an EBB I thought that an oversized BB was required. I haven't had too much luck researching those either.

    I found this frame as well: 26er but so is my current bike. Would probably be a bit cheaper to build.

    Edit: Just realized that bike is 120mm spacing and has no brake mounts. Might still be a fun build though...

  4. #4
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    I just finished building a Brand-X RD-01 road bike (Brand-X RD-01 - Road Frame and Carbon Fork | Chain Reaction Cycles) and the frame quality was pretty good. It looks really similar to the HT-01. The finish is a little fragile, i.e. the paint seems to chip pretty easily, but so far so good. I got it on the road last weekend and the aluminum felt good, not too harsh. It seemed to accelerate fairly quickly too. Overall, I'm happy with it so far. No experience with EBBs or hubs though, so I don't know how well that would work.

    I was eyeing this on Nashbar for a little while too (SE Us Versus Them Frameset - Closeout - Nashbar) but it's more road oriented, albeit with clearance for close to 2" tires. Could be a cool monster cross/XC type bike if your trails will work for that.

  5. #5
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    Here is a BSA threaded eccentric BB: Trickstuff

    I believe Phil Wood also makes one.

    Looks like shipping to the US on the On One is about $100, which makes it less of a deal. I don't think they have a US distributor anymore
    "Never trust a man in a blue trench coat. Never drive a car when you're dead." -- Tom Waits

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by heartland View Post
    Here is a BSA threaded eccentric BB: Trickstuff

    I believe Phil Wood also makes one.

    Looks like shipping to the US on the On One is about $100, which makes it less of a deal. I don't think they have a US distributor anymore
    Thank for that link. A little spendy so I'd have to think about that. I'd much rather use an EBB than a hub though so I'd have options with the wheels down the road.

  7. #7
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    Why not build nice normal convertible (qr/ta) wheels and use a DMR tensioner. Yes it a little ugly however nice versatile wheels will pay out in the long run. I have had good experiences running that tensioner. I like that it uses 2 bolts to lock tension and not a spring system.

    Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    They sell the chain tensions for QR and Thru-axle as well. You could save yourself some money and buy the QR then bore out the hole for the thru-axle when the time comes. I bought a 19.5, its about the same geo as the Nashbar SS (have that one currently).

  10. #10
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    Posting this here since I don't see much else about the HT-01 frame online:

    I drilled a hole in one yesterday to run an internal dropper line:
    HT-01 for Cost Effective Build?-1-20180804_155805.jpg

    I know, I know - "You'll void the warranty!!!" It was under $200 shipped across the pond, so no chance that will ever be of concern.

    What was of some concern was how thin the seat tube wall was. This is a 17" (med) frame and weighs closer to 5lbs than to 4, so I figured everything was beefy. I should probably mic it to see just how thin it is. Or I could just measure the outer diameter of the post, subtract 31.7ish and then divide by 2. The hole looks bigger than it really is - just 13mm long by 5.4mm wide.

    But none of that matters. What matters is that before long, this will be a fully built, dropper equipped budget shredder; just as soon as the fork and wheels arrive.

    I'll post up if this turns out to have been a mistake.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Entrenador View Post
    Posting this here since I don't see much else about the HT-01 frame online:

    I drilled a hole in one yesterday to run an internal dropper line:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I know, I know - "You'll void the warranty!!!" It was under $200 shipped across the pond, so no chance that will ever be of concern.

    What was of some concern was how thin the seat tube wall was. This is a 17" (med) frame and weighs closer to 5lbs than to 4, so I figured everything was beefy. I should probably mic it to see just how thin it is. Or I could just measure the outer diameter of the post, subtract 31.7ish and then divide by 2. The hole looks bigger than it really is - just 13mm long by 5.4mm wide.

    But none of that matters. What matters is that before long, this will be a fully built, dropper equipped budget shredder; just as soon as the fork and wheels arrive.

    I'll post up if this turns out to have been a mistake.
    Can't wait to see the final build!

  12. #12
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    I'm stoked to see one of these built up too. I've always wanted to do exactly what the OP is doing with it. Might even convince me to try it...

  13. #13
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    Assembled

    Wrapped it up last night, and now just needs the new owner to throw a leg over it so I can get him dialed.

    Originally this frame was going to get mostly donor parts from a mid-range Raleigh, but piece by piece, the donor bike turned out to be of little use. I had hoped to use the wheels, brakes, RS XC30 fork, and Deore HTII cranks from the Raleigh, but was disappointed to find that a) it's not possible to locate dust seals for Joytech hubs (otherwise perfectly fine wheels), and b) that m591 cranks are just a weird piece of kit (6.5mm spacer on the spindle for...???), even when they're not bent (donor's were). Little by little this project turned into a nearly all-new build, as I was only able to salvage the rear tire, brakes and seat post clamp (the fork is fine but no longer worthy of this bike). As well, I just felt more and more that I couldn't be satisfied by building something that I wouldn't want to ride myself.

    HT01 frame with new Brand-X labeled bar, stem, dropper (150mm fits on the Med frame, fyi), saddle and headset. New wheels, Deore cranks, front tire, 2015 Reba fork, chain, cassette & WTC 42t cog, Chester pedals; hand-me-down BB, XT 1x10 shadow+Rad Cage derailleur and shifter, Snaggletooth 30t ring, and grips. Respectable @27.5lbs. Fun to rally around on. I think it will bring a big grin upon delivery.

    HT-01 for Cost Effective Build?-1-20180821_152729.jpgHT-01 for Cost Effective Build?-2-20180821_152653.jpg

  14. #14
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    Are we being catfished?

    HT-01 for Cost Effective Build?-gearie.jpg

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Are we being catfished?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cause his chains too long? I don't see what you're looking at on the bars

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    It’s not a SS ( but is a perfectly nice bike!)

  17. #17
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    I used the HT-01 frame as my second SS build and what I would consider my first serious bike build. I attached some pictures below. Although the 135 rear spacing is pretty old school this frame is awesome for the price! It was easy to find a solid used wheelset with the correct spacing. I might consider upgrading the frame in the future and swapping all the components over(kinda want to go steel). I have spent a lot of time on this bike this summer and will for sure keep it in the rotation going forward (not a die hard singlespeeder). I have riden flow trails, dirt jumps, technical singletrack and even dual slalom “downhill” with it.
    Went for wide bars, short stem and all black.

    Build Specs
    Frame: Brand-X HT-01
    Fork: Reba 120mm 27.5
    Wheelset: Giant XC-2
    Brake set- Shimano XT
    Seatpost: Raceface something???
    Seat: Giant Contact
    Stem: 40 mm
    Handlebars: Chain Reaction Cycles special, 785 width
    Crankset: Shimano SLX
    Chainring: Shimano SLX 34 tooth
    Tires: WTB Riddlers 2.25, still running tubes, winter project?
    Grips: Cannondale something???
    Pedals: Cheap platforms off Amazon (that are pretty dang good for for $20)
    Also added some “cool” stickers.



    HT-01 for Cost Effective Build?-e9da9684-a226-4d68-9551-959c57b0d849.jpg
    HT-01 for Cost Effective Build?-3bbd5b2f-c98b-4cf7-86b3-8647c72b5371.jpgHT-01 for Cost Effective Build?-80cdf8fa-92c8-4ca8-8a88-ce35a4fca6cd.jpg

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Cause his chains too long?
    4 links removed after photo was taken. Thanks for noticing.

  19. #19
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    Looks good, and probably fairly light (low 20s?). Did you get your fork from ebay'er WheelandSprocket? How do you like the Reba? I maxed out the tokens at 3 (came with none installed), and it's a decent fork now.

  20. #20
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    You get away with nothing on mtbr!

    I realized the other guy was just pointing out that you posted a geared bike on the SS forum, but I now you were just supplying an example of the frame.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Entrenador View Post
    Looks good, and probably fairly light (low 20s?). Did you get your fork from ebay'er WheelandSprocket? How do you like the Reba? I maxed out the tokens at 3 (came with none installed), and it's a decent fork now.
    Can’t speak on the weight. I guess low 20s would be pretty close for a aluminum SS hardtail. The fork did come off eBay from Wheel and Sprocket. I kinda planned to go used fox but the Reba seemed like a good fork and I’m a total sucker for the black stanchions. I am a big fan of the Reba. It’s seems to do everything I ask it to and feels pretty good overall. Haven’t used any tokens on a fork yet. The Yari on my brand new 2019 stache came with a few that I might play around with.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Entrenador View Post
    4 links removed after photo was taken. Thanks for noticing.
    You need to take off some more links. Then remove the shifter, cassette, and deraileur. Then it will be perfect.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MB_rider View Post
    I used the HT-01 frame as my second SS build and what I would consider my first serious bike build. I attached some pictures below. Although the 135 rear spacing is pretty old school this frame is awesome for the price! It was easy to find a solid used wheelset with the correct spacing. I might consider upgrading the frame in the future and swapping all the components over(kinda want to go steel). I have spent a lot of time on this bike this summer and will for sure keep it in the rotation going forward (not a die hard singlespeeder). I have riden flow trails, dirt jumps, technical singletrack and even dual slalom “downhill” with it.
    Went for wide bars, short stem and all black.

    Build Specs
    Frame: Brand-X HT-01
    Fork: Reba 120mm 27.5
    Wheelset: Giant XC-2
    Brake set- Shimano XT
    Seatpost: Raceface something???
    Seat: Giant Contact
    Stem: 40 mm
    Handlebars: Chain Reaction Cycles special, 785 width
    Crankset: Shimano SLX
    Chainring: Shimano SLX 34 tooth
    Tires: WTB Riddlers 2.25, still running tubes, winter project?
    Grips: Cannondale something???
    Pedals: Cheap platforms off Amazon (that are pretty dang good for for $20)
    Also added some “cool” stickers.



    Click image for larger version. 

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    Are you using a magic gear? If so, what cog size with the 34t ring?

    I started switching all my parts to a new HT-01 frame and only had a chance to try 32x18, which doesn't work by only a couple mm

  24. #24
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    Looks like there might be a part of a chain guide mounted to the ISCG05 tabs. A tiny pulley wheel just below the chainstay just behind the chainring. Similar to what Blake Sampson did on that silly (and hilarious) Fixed Gear MTB video over on GMBN-youtube.
    Deflated - buy parts to sell parts to buy more parts.. bikes are my drug of choice

    FATTrailer for the kiddo

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Rides Bikes View Post
    Looks like there might be a part of a chain guide mounted to the ISCG05 tabs. A tiny pulley wheel just below the chainstay just behind the chainring. Similar to what Blake Sampson did on that silly (and hilarious) Fixed Gear MTB video over on GMBN-youtube.
    Thanks. It's hard to see it on my monitor, but now that you've pointed it out I can see part of that too. And that's the same route I think I'm going... Blackspire Stinger.

    I feel a bit silly switching from a "proper" SS frame to this and needing to buy a tensioner of some sort. At least everything else about this will be an upgrade for me

    But the old Inbred will live again someday, possibly even as a fixed gear again. That GMBN video brought back silly memories of my own and reminded me that I still own a tomicog

  26. #26
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    Did you ever have any issues from drilling the hole for the cable? Considering doing the same thing.

  27. #27
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    Double posted and couldnt figure out how to delete so I’m just editing this one.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianhuntrva View Post
    Did you ever have any issues from drilling the hole for the cable? Considering doing the same thing.
    No issues so far. My friend rides it weekly or so - newer rider on fairly tame trails. I'm not expecting any problems from it. Everything I read about others doing this to alloy frames led me to trust the work. Cleaned up the hole pretty well before buttoning up the bike.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Entrenador View Post
    No issues so far. My friend rides it weekly or so - newer rider on fairly tame trails. I'm not expecting any problems from it. Everything I read about others doing this to alloy frames led me to trust the work. Cleaned up the hole pretty well before buttoning up the bike.
    Thanks good to hear!

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