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  1. #1
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
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    how to remove stripped crank bolt? (xpost tooltime)

    I have managed to strip out the 8 mm allen head on the self-extracting crank bolt on my old style (m952) xtr cranks on the drive side. This happened because I was using the not-totally correct tool... I have learned my lesson... I also really torqued it tight because I have had some bad experiences with loose crank bolts during a ride and then ruining a crank arm.

    now. how do I get it out? my friend scott has tried JB welding in an 8 mm allen, and then using a pipe on it. The JB weld broke. He is going to drill out the bolt next, and hopefully not ruin the cranks or BB. He has removed the non-drive-side successfully. Tomorrow is one last try before the drill, since it is soaking in some industrial strength liquid wrench tonight.

    Any clever ideas?

    And this is alesson to you all... do not temporarily convert back to gears. ever. I want to remove the crank to remove the 3 ring spider and put back on the single ring.

    Thanks in advance.
    Only boring people get bored.

  2. #2
    Cracker-magnon
    Reputation: gpsser's Avatar
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    Use a drill bit that is about half the diameter of the threaded portion and then use an easy-out. It is a reverse threaded tool that will thread into the hole you drill, allowing you to back out the offending bolt once it tightens down.
    "Life is a F@#^ing story problem, get used to it - my son.

  3. #3
    Medium?
    Reputation: Fast Eddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpsser
    Use a drill bit that is about half the diameter of the threaded portion and ...
    Forget that. Drill the now-stripped hex hole a bit and use the appropriate easy out. The larger easy-out will be stronger and less likely to break off itself.

  4. #4
    I like to ride bikes!
    Reputation: scoutdog's Avatar
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    Weld it

    I had a cracked ISIS bolt stuck once. I went to a local welder and for $6.00 he welded an old wrench right onto the bolt. It did not even mark the AL crank arm. The whole process took about 5 minutes.

  5. #5
    Steel and teeth.
    Reputation: b1umb0y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddy
    Forget that. Drill the now-stripped hex hole a bit and use the appropriate easy out. The larger easy-out will be stronger and less likely to break off itself.
    ditto.

    bb

  6. #6
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoutdog
    I had a cracked ISIS bolt stuck once. I went to a local welder and for $6.00 he welded an old wrench right onto the bolt. It did not even mark the AL crank arm. The whole process took about 5 minutes.
    i think we will try this. scott employs a machine shop for his hub business, so the machinist might just do it quickly right there.

    did you ruin the bottom bracket? or since it was ISIS, it was ruined anyway?
    Only boring people get bored.

  7. #7
    I like to ride bikes!
    Reputation: scoutdog's Avatar
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    BB was fine!

    Quote Originally Posted by jh_on_the_cape
    i think we will try this. scott employs a machine shop for his hub business, so the machinist might just do it quickly right there.

    did you ruin the bottom bracket? or since it was ISIS, it was ruined anyway?
    I got another full season outta that BB !!!! LOL!!!
    I even saved the bolt with a wrench welded on to it. I'd send ya pic of it, if I were at home!

  8. #8
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
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    got it out. machinist heated up the bolt with a torch and then used an impact wrench with a one size larger hex head.
    i am going to replace the BB, the seals may have been torched.

    thanks for the advice, all.
    Only boring people get bored.

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