How light is your SS- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    How light is your SS

    Steel Kona Unit w/ Fox fork = 21lbs

  2. #2
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    Its not so much about the weight as it is:

    -the stiffness of the frame
    -the stiffness of the wheelset
    -chainline

    these three factors outweigh the actual weight which is fairly light given its size.....

    IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs

  3. #3
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    dont need a SS lesson

    Quote Originally Posted by rogueturtle
    Its not so much about the weight as it is:

    -the stiffness of the frame
    -the stiffness of the wheelset
    -chainline

    these three factors outweigh the actual weight which is fairly light given its size.....

    IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs
    I am not trying to make a statement, just want to see ss builds and their weight.1) chainline is adjustable. 2) stiff frame could ride like crap. 3) stiff wheelset could ride like crap.I.E. I run V-brakes, a guy will pull up and tell how much better his disc brakes are... I am 126lbs. and he is 185lbs so who has better stopping performance.Too many factors. I do like IF. 20.5lbs. you must not have a suspension fork giving size of frame.

  4. #4
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    Weight is just as important as color.

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  5. #5
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    Time in the saddle is above all

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    Weight is just as important as color.

    --Sparty
    you must have a heavy / grey bike.

  6. #6
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    So whats the point in looking simply at the weight of a bike? Every time i see a 13-15lb blingle-bike post- i dont even read past the first thread due to the fact that its totally not applicable --ie i could crack it into bits in about 5minutes.

    Wouldnt it be more interesting to see what people weigh and how they correlate their bikes weight/setup to that?

    My 20.5lb IF runs a Pushed Foxf80x. Not the most plush fork out there- but certainly alot faster than running rigid with minimal weight penalty. Im 225lbs and after a multitude of frames finally have the weight/strength/stiffness fairly dialed.

    At 126lbs you could easily be on an 18lb bike and still have all the ride quality/rigidity/durability you wanted-- of course thats going full custom....but at 126lbs ---a 3lb difference would be noticable. (thats equivalent to me dropping 5lbs.)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by sevencycle
    you must have a heavy / grey bike.
    hey-no grey-bashing.........
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  8. #8
    one chain loop
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    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  9. #9
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    Vassago Jabberwocky (18") ~22 lbs / Rider (68") ~170 lbs
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  10. #10
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    Your tires

    Quote Originally Posted by 7daysaweek
    Vassago Jabberwocky (18") ~22 lbs / Rider (68") ~170 lbs
    Hi, are you running a small block 8 rear and Nevegal front? How is that combo working out? How is the cush/grip/rolling resistance on the front? How does the rear hold in climbs and corners? I was thinking of putting these two together. Sorry for all the questions, I have a rigid steel 29er as well so they should perform similar on my bike.

    Thanks

  11. #11
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    Any color you want...

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    Weight is just as important as color.

    --Sparty
    ...as long as it's black. Black is the fastest.

  12. #12
    Appalachian Singletrack'n
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    Ti Blacksheep Highlite with WB magic fork - 27 lbs
    Iím 195lbs and I donít ride gently, this is how much a bike thatís durable enough for me weighs.

  13. #13
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    what is your build

    Quote Originally Posted by rogueturtle
    IndyFab SS- 25.5"tt - 20.5lbs
    Your large strong steel or Ti frame,stiff wheelset,not the lightest susp. fork @ 20.5 lbs. You have to have some crazy light stuff or a very optimistic scale.
    My small Steel Kona Unit 3.7lb. frame with Fox 80x,DT 240 hubs,Alum 20t cog,Mavic 517's,cross 2 revolution spokes,Easton carbon SL 25.8 bars,Easton ec70 post,SLR saddle, Avid Ti V-brakes,Conti 2.3 tires,Stan tubeless,XTR 170 crankset,Spot 34t ring,sram hollow pin chain,eggbeater ss pedals and Ti hardware is 21.2lbs .

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmac83
    Hi, are you running a small block 8 rear and Nevegal front? How is that combo working out? How is the cush/grip/rolling resistance on the front? How does the rear hold in climbs and corners? I was thinking of putting these two together. Sorry for all the questions, I have a rigid steel 29er as well so they should perform similar on my bike.

    Thanks
    I like the combination a lot. I run about 25 psi in the front and 30 in the rear (tubed) and I rarely have grip issues... only on steep stuff with pine straw (which is never good). The cush in the front is surprisingly good. I'm only on a 2.2 Nevegal and it feels pretty good (with carbon bars and fork). The Nevegal corners amazingly well and I've never had either tire slip out on me unexpectedly. I would definitely recommend this combination for pretty much any kind of riding. I've liked it no matter what I've ridden and the speed of the small block on the back more than makes up for any small amount of grip you might lose running it instead of a knobby. Good luck and enjoy.

  15. #15
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    Perfect Quote !

    Quote Originally Posted by Endomaniac
    this is how much a bike thatís durable enough for me weighs.
    Perfect Quote !

  16. #16
    Which way? Uphill.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    Weight is just as important as color.

    --Sparty
    And related. I stripped down a frame and had it repainted, the paint added nearly a half pound to the bare frame. Maybe I shouldn't have let my brother try out his new paint gun on my bike, though not many people have a Ferrari Red (Rosso Corsa) bike.
    Blog

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    Just keep moving forward.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogueturtle
    hey-no grey-bashing.........
    Dayamn, that bike is bew tee ful!

    My On One I believe is in the 22-23 lbs. range. I weigh 155-160. Fox F80X, Race Face everything else, SRAM v-brakes. Rides like butter (although I wish I had the F100X). Did D-ville XC on it one year.

    I contacted Curtlo when I was looking to go custom and he said at my weight I could go 3lbs. frame and it would ride well. He also suggested the eccentric BB but that added some weight to the frame.

    I used to run a converted Specialized M2 and I believe that was a sub 21 lbs. bike. I've ridden a Merlin custom Ti SS that a friend owned - I think it was an 18 lbs. bike. Seemed pretty whippy to me. Skinny tires didn't help I'm sure.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sevencycle
    Your large strong steel or Ti frame,stiff wheelset,not the lightest susp. fork @ 20.5 lbs. You have to have some crazy light stuff or a very optimistic scale.
    My small Steel Kona Unit 3.7lb. frame with Fox 80x,DT 240 hubs,Alum 20t cog,Mavic 517's,cross 2 revolution spokes,Easton carbon SL 25.8 bars,Easton ec70 post,SLR saddle, Avid Ti V-brakes,Conti 2.3 tires,Stan tubeless,XTR 170 crankset,Spot 34t ring,sram hollow pin chain,eggbeater ss pedals and Ti hardware is 21.2lbs .

    I was running a Phantom Ti rear hub (135grams) with a White Ind. Ti eno for a while. Real Racing levers are very light. Front hub was a Tune 66gram. I ran that combo for 3 years on my old SS an then the IF........but recently switched it out for a King setup for ease of gearing changes. (the Phantom Ti hub/eno ti combo is far more durable and lighter than anything ive used to date) Dt Aerolites and Dt rims. Eggbeater single ti. Thompson masterpiece post. Prototype specialized enduros-lighter versions that didnt make it to market-but made it to my frame. Saddle is custom drilled and lightened- 3yrs and running-(if you are sitting- you probably took the easy route)-forgot what it weighs--but is definitely light w/nice flex in just the right spots.

    Its also the little things. If you notice in the IndyFAB pic- the rear cable routing is on the right hand side of the toptube--thereby shortening the housing and not crossing in front of the headtube ---the Avid Ultimate is reversible to allow this to happen. Im a bit ocd when it comes to cable routing as seen on my hardtail:
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    Last edited by rogueturtle; 06-26-2008 at 02:51 PM.

  19. #19
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    Very cool, you do have all the weight weenie goodies.Excuse my doubt as most everybody's bike gains a few pounds when it hits the scale.My Kona King w/gears ate into my low weight budget$. Its 22.5lbs dual suspension but I ride my SS 80% of the time.Riding SS's steady since 1997.In Colorado my gearing is 34x20

  20. #20
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    The best weight weenie thing i could do would be to actually clean my bike........

    as it stands i end up doing it only about once a year.......so my avg bike weight is probably closer to 22lbs 364days per year..........with one day having a "magical" one pound drop making the next few rides abnormally nice.

    That coupled with a properly timed 1 lb dump...............and i almost seem to be floating down the trails.

  21. #21
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    Mine's a pig...no weight wienie components, just good, solid, reliable stuff. I don't have a scale, but it feels considerably heavier than my Specialized Roubaix, which was 22-23lbs, and considerably lighter than my Bleriot was, which was a real pig @ 32lbs. I'm a pig too(I feel like one anyway, right now) so it's a good match.

  22. #22
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    Not a very flattering picture of her, but she comes in at the very low side of 22lbs as she sits here.
    Got LEFTY?
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by sevencycle
    you must have a heavy / grey bike.
    Actually it's heavy and black. As mentioned below, black is the fastest. I weigh 195# and hammer the poor thing -- a custom Vulture with 5.5" fork. I'm 6'3", the cranks are 195mm, the h-bars are 31" wide. My bike keeps not breaking.

    Dunno how much it weighs... I don't have a scale.

    I've completed this race on it. Over 16,000' vertical in a day. I never wished my bike was lighter.

    If I wanted it lighter, I could/would make it lighter. But I like it black, I like it heavy, I like it to keep not breaking.

    --Sparty

    P.S. No computer on my bike, either. But not in an effort to save weight.
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  24. #24
    local trails rider
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    Don't know the weight of my SS bike either. It is lighter than when it had 27 gears and heavy tyres... I am not a lightweight, so went for sturdy frame and fork. Stiff too: it beats the **** out of me if I put too much air in the tyres. On the other hand, when I turn the cranks, the wheel turns now and not two seconds later.

  25. #25
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    Trek 69er SS, root beer comes in at 23.1 lbs. This bike rocks!

  26. #26
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    My rigid On One Inbred 26" weighs in at 23 lbs. Sure I could shave off a few more pounds with some carbon fiber components but I only weigh 160 myself.

  27. #27
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    My 29er SS now weighs 24 lbs. I haven't ridden it yet since taking off the Reba in favor of the Pitchfork. I'll ride it later today. I know I could probably save 1.5 lbs if I had an alluminum or Ti frame. But I'll probably just keep riding it as is. I suck anyway.

  28. #28
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    My Niner One9 (XL) frame with XTR cranks, Hope hubs laced to 29" Stans arch rims, 08 XT brakes, Carbon bars, 32-20 gears, and other stuff. She tips the scale just under 22lbs. I built it to last and ride her all day. The rider weighs 210lbs. My Niner was built with love and intended abuse.

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