how do you lock a freehub?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    New question here. how do you lock a freehub?

    I want to convert my freehub street bike to a fixie ( I think that's what it is called) so that i can pedal backwards and I move backwards, I'm pretty much trying to lock the hub.

    Is this possible to do?
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  2. #2
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    If you have a Shimano hub, this might work:
    http://surlybikes.com/parts/fixxer/

  3. #3
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    I'm looking for something really cheap lol
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  4. #4
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    Does it have the disc brake thing so you can put rotors on the hub? If so you can buy a tomicog or a disc cog from velosolo.

  5. #5
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    nope, no disc brake hub,

    I'm thinking I put a whole bunch of jb weld in my free hub, lol, but I'm pretty sure that wouldn't hold lol
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  6. #6
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    Oh yeah and I forgot to mention that I don't care if I permanently lock my freehub
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  7. #7
    yeah it still hurts...
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    ^^ in that case, weld the freehub body to the hub. its free, and itll never break or come loose.
    who put that tree there?

  8. #8
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    that's a good idea, I've got some connections and i can prob do that for free.

    are you talking about welding the innermost section of the freehub body (closest to the spokes) to the hub?
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  9. #9
    yeah it still hurts...
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    yup, exactly.
    who put that tree there?

  10. #10
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    just checking... this isn't a converted SS bike with a chain tensioner is it?

  11. #11
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    0;nope it's a crappy hardtail that I'm bored with so I gonna try fixie
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ineedanewbike
    ^^ in that case, weld the freehub body to the hub. its free, and itll never break or come loose.
    good luck welding steel (freehub) to aluminum (hub shell).

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitropiro
    0;nope it's a crappy hardtail that I'm bored with so I gonna try fixie
    i guess i didn't word it properly. Is this a bike designed for singlespeed with horizontal dropouts, track ends, EBB or something to tension the chain; or is it a hardtail designed for gears?

  14. #14
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    it's a hardtail designed for gears,

    I'm gonna run a small chain tensioner, as far as I know it's the only way to take up the extra slack in the chain, and I know that pedaling backwards will have some delay to it because of the slack being taken up in the chain tensioner but I don't care it'll be a messin around bike
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  15. #15
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    if the welding doesn't work because of different materials being welded what are some other options that mitework, I'm open for anything
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitropiro
    it's a hardtail designed for gears,

    I'm gonna run a small chain tensioner, as far as I know it's the only way to take up the extra slack in the chain, and I know that pedaling backwards will have some delay to it because of the slack being taken up in the chain tensioner but I don't care it'll be a messin around bike
    I don't think that will work safely or for long. I haven't tried it myself so I'm taking other people's word for it. Surly also says not to use their Singleator tensioner for a fixed gear

    The problem isn't slack (although that can be very annoying on a fixed gear) but the fact that when braking with the pedals the bottom half of the chain is under full tension like the top half would be when pedaling forwards. Tensioners are not designed to take that much force. The bottom half of the chain that they are designed to keep tight sees very little force on a normal singlespeed in comparison to this.

  17. #17
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    I'm not gonna use a normal chain tensioner, i plan on making my own that when under tension will swing up towards the chainstay and stay out of the way but still be active while I pedal forward

    lots of things on this bike are custom parts designed for this one application.

    I'm just thinking out of the box to make a cheap fixie
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitropiro
    are you talking about welding the innermost section of the freehub body (closest to the spokes) to the hub?
    It will never work that way. You'll have to remove the freehub body from the hub shell, flush all the lubricant out of it, then weld the inner and outer sections together.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    It will never work that way. You'll have to remove the freehub body from the hub shell, flush all the lubricant out of it, then weld the inner and outer sections together.
    ^^ This. I've done it myself, and it works well.

  20. #20
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    JB weld. Just degrease the inners of the freehub and throw this stuff in. It is a permanent bond...maybe not as strong as welding...but this stuff really is no joke.

    http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

    I've been thinking of doing this to one of my old freehubs that doens't have rotor mounts as well.

  21. #21
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    throw a few loose ball bearing in the pawls while youre at it.

  22. #22
    yeah it still hurts...
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    good point about the aluminum and steel. although it has been done, itll probably oxidize rather quickl at the weld
    who put that tree there?

  23. #23
    yeah it still hurts...
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    JB weld could be a good deal, especially with some loose bearings thrown in for more contact area like ScaryJerry said
    who put that tree there?

  24. #24
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    Superman used his heat vision to lock the freewheel to the hub of his bike. Then he felt diarrhea coming around the corner, and flew to the nearest volcano because if he would have pooped on a toilet, he would have destroyed a building.

    After he was done, he went back and rode his bike, only to get his cape caught on the chain.

  25. #25
    Mi nombre es Austin
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    sounds like I've got a plan, I wonder what the bike shop is gonna think once i tell them i jbwelded my free hub
    If a XC bike with 4 in. of travel goes down the RedBull Rampage course and nobody is there to see it, is it considered DH

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitropiro
    I'm not gonna use a normal chain tensioner, i plan on making my own that when under tension will swing up towards the chainstay and stay out of the way but still be active while I pedal forward
    lolololol

    Can't wait to see this.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    The problem isn't slack (although that can be very annoying on a fixed gear) but the fact that when braking with the pedals the bottom half of the chain is under full tension like the top half would be when pedaling forwards. Tensioners are not designed to take that much force. The bottom half of the chain that they are designed to keep tight sees very little force on a normal singlespeed in comparison to this.
    Sorry maybe a dumb question but if the tensioner is on the bottom run of the chain, when braking on a fixie wouldn't the top run go slack, and possibly cause the chain to fall off since there's no tensioner on the top run?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by dakh
    Sorry maybe a dumb question but if the tensioner is on the bottom run of the chain, when braking on a fixie wouldn't the top run go slack, and possibly cause the chain to fall off since there's no tensioner on the top run?
    yes, it would.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ernesto_from_Wisconsin
    Superman used his heat vision to lock the freewheel to the hub of his bike. Then he felt diarrhea coming around the corner, and flew to the nearest volcano because if he would have pooped on a toilet, he would have destroyed a building.

    After he was done, he went back and rode his bike, only to get his cape caught on the chain.
    Then Superman got smart and bought a WI ENO fixie/free hub to convert his rear wheel to fixed gear AND tension his chain.
    Thanks to www.weavercycleworks.com for my awesome bike frames!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by dakh
    Sorry maybe a dumb question but if the tensioner is on the bottom run of the chain, when braking on a fixie wouldn't the top run go slack, and possibly cause the chain to fall off since there's no tensioner on the top run?
    Indeed. The tensioner would need to have two pulleys and a pivot so that the bottom one tensioned the chain while driving and whilst braking it would force the pulley up and the other pulley into the slackened chain at the top. This might work but the transition may not work and the distance between the pulleys would have to be worked out differently for every gear ratio. I wouldn't bother. Just do it right. This ghetto **** doesn't work well at all.

  31. #31
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    dont forget to buy band aids
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ineedanewbike
    good point about the aluminum and steel. although it has been done, itll probably oxidize rather quickl at the weld
    Unless were talking a high end bike, I'd guess the hub shell is also steel. If it's a Shimano, it would have to be XTR to have an aluminum hub shell.
    Just one more rep and I get the toaster!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by aka brad
    Unless were talking a high end bike, I'd guess the hub shell is also steel. If it's a Shimano, it would have to be XTR to have an aluminum hub shell.
    Hub shells are almost always aluminum for normal MTB hubs. Shimano Deore is aluminum (with steel freehub) and though their site doesn't confirm it I'm pretty sure Alivio and Acera are as well

  34. #34
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    sweet thread

    please post photos of the process. This idea is so dumb that is instantly awesome.

    Note: I had an old freewheel mtn hub that had a track cog threaded on with a BB lockring holding it down and tons of JB weld covering everything and it never gave me one problem.

    good luck, this is pretty bad ass.
    no chain no gain.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Hub shells are almost always aluminum for normal MTB hubs. Shimano Deore is aluminum (with steel freehub) and though their site doesn't confirm it I'm pretty sure Alivio and Acera are as well
    Ahh, my bad I was thinking freehub body shell..so if he does have an high end hub with an aluminum freehub, then he could have like metals welded together.
    Last edited by aka brad; 07-21-2010 at 11:43 PM.
    Just one more rep and I get the toaster!

  36. #36
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    Ghost Cog.

    Enjoy.

    bryan d

    PS - my hands are sweating and tingling thinking about jbweld and fixies.
    Just keep pedaling, don't stop pedaling.

  37. #37
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    spring tensioner + fixed cog = BAD IDEA.

    it sounds interesting, but i think your are taking your life in your hands with this mod. i suggest you just look for a cheap used rear wheel or disc hub and get a Tomicog. all of the other ideas in this thread sound idiotic and dangerous.

    and like i just said, you really cannot safely use a pulley-style tensioner with a fixed setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
    You CanNOT use any sort of pulley type chain tensioner on a fixed gear bike!

    You cannot use a derailer on a fixed gear bike, even as a chain tensioner, because when you resist the rotation of the pedals, you would bend the derailer. This presents a problem if you want to use a frame with vertical dropouts as a fixed gear, because there's no easy way to adjust the chain tension. This is also true of chain tensioners sold for singlespeed coasting bikes, such as the Surly Singleator.

    Even the chain tensioners used for downhill mountain bike racing are not strong enough to withstand the stress of resisting the pedals. These tensioners have to clamp on to the chain stay, which is more or less round. There is no way to make one that would be secure, short of installing some sort of brazed-on fitting.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle
    and like i just said, you really cannot safely use a pulley-style tensioner with a fixed setup.

    Concluding that you CAN unsafely use a tensioner w/ fixed cog.
    no chain no gain.

  39. #39
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    true, you can unsafely do this. just don't send me an orthodontist bill when you eat it and scrape your teeth off your face all over some rocks.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10speedbiopacefreewheel
    This idea is so dumb that is instantly awesome.
    Great quote, can I use it?

    Nitropiro - When you take the bike into the LBS, tell them the freewheel was squeaking a little so you JB Welded it, just to be safe - then ask them if fixing it is covered under warranty. Just for fun.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoisonDartFrog
    Great quote, can I use it?

    ah sure, just don't correct my grammar error.


    I would like to believe that this kid is gonna be legendary. But I bet it works for sh*t, and he rides it a few times and gets discouraged putting it away and giving up all together. That is certainly the worst that could happen. I doubt anyones teeth are gonna get ground powder. hahaha.


    I really want pictures posted either way.
    no chain no gain.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10speedbiopacefreewheel
    I doubt anyones teeth are gonna get ground powder. hahaha.
    I dreamed a dream....

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    I dreamed a dream....
    he died instantly.... the next day
    no chain no gain.

  44. #44
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    If he hasn't gotten the message, yet, +1 on BAD IDEA, DON'T DO IT.

    Those Surly conversion dealios always developed a lot of play over time.

    I collected a bunch of steel Shimano freehubs for welding into Fixie freehubs for when I had nothing better to do. I've always been able to find something better to do.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10speedbiopacefreewheel
    he died instantly.... the next day
    Only after he posted pics. That would be awesome.

  46. #46
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    pics yet ?????????????
    no chain no gain.

  47. #47
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    Well...I went ahead to try the JB weld method on an old 9spd Deore hub last night. I had some old bearings to throw in...but they were all too big to fit, so it's just straight up JB welded.

    I cleaned the poop out of it with acetone, filed any surface I could get to, and washed everything in acetone again. I'm confident it will hold....however, I'll be doing what I can to try to break it out on my street this evening or tomorrow. If it holds, I'll progressively put my trust into it. Yes...I have brakes on the bike.

    I did not weld the freehub to the hub, just the freehub internals...so if it does't work out I can always buy the expensive surly fixxer to replace the whole thing.

    I hate taking photos while doing work, but I did take a few. I'll post them up after I give it a try.

    Anyone else do some experimentation?

  48. #48
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    lets see those pics already...
    I was worried this thread was dead...
    or you were dead... yikes
    no chain no gain.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10speedbiopacefreewheel
    lets see those pics already...
    I was worried this thread was dead...
    or you were dead... yikes
    Nothing special to look at at, really...just some jb weld, a machine screw, and a day's time to dry. I just overloaded the freehub with the jbweld and wiped off all excess that squished out.

    So far it has not broken or felt loose with a few short rides on it.. My buddies at the bike shop just shook their heads about this....I expect many more...especially if/when it breaks.







    And the bike utilizing the ghetto fab(ulous). I do have V's on the rear at the moment...btw.

  50. #50
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    that poor poor bike........

  51. #51
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    Actually, I think the bike is extremely happy that it's actually in one piece. I've been trying to sell 90% of those parts for very reasonable prices, but it hasn't happened...now it's time to use them again.

    It's more than likely poor poor me... I'm terrible at riding fixie...so whether the freehub stays together or not...I'm sure I'll be getting hurt.

  52. #52
    one chain loop
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    resurrecting this old thread, anyone here still alive with the jb weld mod? just curious, no really..
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  53. #53
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    I would never use jb weld for anything that experiences that much stress.

    Its a cool product but its just not too strong and i wouldn't trust it on a freehub. But i guess it works for some people.

    On a more serious note, i did use it to patch a leaky petcock on my motos gastank. Pretty sweet.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669
    I would never use jb weld for anything that experiences that much stress.

    Its a cool product but its just not too strong and i wouldn't trust it on a freehub. But i guess it works for some people.
    In this application the JB Weld isn't really taking a lot of stress. All it really need to do is keep the ball bearing from turning, and that's it.

  55. #55
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    Would a chainstay mounted tensioner like this work in a fixed application? Seems like it would be strong enough, as there are no moving parts really except the roller.

  56. #56
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    instead of spending the cash on jb weld, a tensioner, an ambulance ride, and hospital bills, why not spend $40 on a formula track hub, space it so it fits the frame appropriately, as well as a half link(if needed).

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slumberjack
    instead of spending the cash on jb weld, a tensioner, an ambulance ride, and hospital bills, why not spend $40 on a formula track hub, space it so it fits the frame appropriately, as well as a half link(if needed).
    Because that would be no fun. We're bored with our stock bikes. We want a challenge!

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjphillips
    Because that would be no fun. We're bored with our stock bikes. We want a challenge!
    Because JB Weld works fine in this application. The JBW isn't actually supporting the freehub or keeping it in place. All it needs to do is keep the bearings the freehub spins on from turning.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slumberjack
    instead of spending the cash on jb weld, a tensioner, an ambulance ride, and hospital bills, why not spend $40 on a formula track hub, space it so it fits the frame appropriately, as well as a half link(if needed).
    plus $40 in labor for a shop to build the wheel, plus the cost of parts for new spokes and nipples and likely a new rim if you're trying to play it safe. Not saying things shouldn't be done more properly than a jerry-rigged tensioner for fixed use though

    Also, unless he's relying on the fixed rear wheels as his only brake, a major crash and hospital trip is unlikely in the case of jbweld failing

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Because JB Weld works fine in this application. The JBW isn't actually supporting the freehub or keeping it in place. All it needs to do is keep the bearings the freehub spins on from turning.
    your username is making me pretty skeptical.

    also, what? if this kid backpedals at all, it's going to put a huge amount of stress on the jbweld.

  61. #61
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    I have an old Joytech hub with a skipping freehub on it and I would like to try this. I don't have access to any sort of welding equipment but I could try JB Weld. I think I could do a much better job if I could take the freehub apart. I have the freehub out of the wheel and the outboard bearing dustcap is off, exposing the bearing race that would need to come out to take it apart. there are two slots on the race that can be turned clockwise to loosen it, but I can't see to find a tool the right size to crack it loose. The old style two-prong freewheel remover does not work, the prongs are set too narrow. Supposedly Shimano makes a tool called the FH-40 but it's very elusive. any other ideas to crack this thing open?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanConway
    your username is making me pretty skeptical.
    Pretty sad if you're basing your opinion off a user name.

    Quote Originally Posted by DanConway
    also, what? if this kid backpedals at all, it's going to put a huge amount of stress on the jbweld.
    I don't think realize how little it takes to keep bearings from turning.

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