How to convert to SS?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    How to convert to SS?

    I have an old beater bike I want to convert to SS to learn wheelies manuals etc on and maybe mess around doing trials type stuff. I have clipless on my main bike and would hate switching pedals everytime I want to practice wheelies and manuals.

    Can someone point me to a good thread or how-to on the internet of how to convert to SS easily and, most importantly, cheaply?

    Sorry for grammar at work and had to type quick

  2. #2
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    OK, so I had time to look it up myself after work. I ran into a few probs. Here they go

    The bike I want to convert has the shimano freehub design on a 7 speed casette. Will the basic chainwhip tools and lockring tools that are easily available work with this old technology or do I need to get specific equipment?

    Then for the crankset it appears that the chainrings are riveted together (definately doesn't look bolted together like my new bike). Do I need a whole new crankset in order to get a single chain ring up front? ... because that would probably be a deal breaker for me.

    Thanks for reading.

  3. #3
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    I ran into the same prob...so I bought these (found via this forum)

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-Shiman...QQcmdZViewItem

    The $38 smacks and the job is done...buy a kit for the rear and your all set
    "hold my beer and watch this!"

  4. #4
    What's the Speed of Dark?
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    you actually dont need a new crankset.
    I did this same project last year.
    I drilled out the rivets, cut off the extra sprockets with a dremel, and just kept the middle sprocket.
    Tricks Like: The Heavy Metal Maniac's Dizz Flip, Redefine the Term "Radness"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeffertz91
    you actually dont need a new crankset.
    I did this same project last year.
    I drilled out the rivets, cut off the extra sprockets with a dremel, and just kept the middle sprocket.

    OK cool. I thought that that might work and I've been looking for an excuse to get another dremel.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeffertz91
    you actually dont need a new crankset.
    I did this same project last year.
    I drilled out the rivets, cut off the extra sprockets with a dremel, and just kept the middle sprocket.
    Can you post some pics of the finished product?
    "hold my beer and watch this!"

  7. #7
    What's the Speed of Dark?
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    I would get some pics of it,
    but, I just tore apart the whole BB and everything and wrecked my crankset because the right side was like seized on or something.
    ill try to just put the BB back together to get some pics.
    Tricks Like: The Heavy Metal Maniac's Dizz Flip, Redefine the Term "Radness"

  8. #8
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    I used this how-to: http://pedalbite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7776

    This link shows what ring and cog combos work without a tensioner. YMMV, but it worked for me: http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php

    I didn't buy a chain whip or a remover. My LBS removed the cogs. You can thread the retaining ring back on without tools. Also, the DMR conversion kit I used (bought from the same LBS) included a retaining ring.

    The only bike tool I used was a chain tool.

    I'm not a bike mechanic, but thanks to this forum and the posting generosity of SSers elsewhere on the web, I did the job without any problems.
    Last edited by alligood; 06-12-2008 at 07:04 PM.

  9. #9
    one chain loop
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    Quote Originally Posted by alligood
    You can thread the retaining ring back on without tools.
    Without tools?? You mean hand tight? NO thanks.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek
    Without tools?? You mean hand tight? NO thanks.
    From cyclingforums.com:
    "It is rather perplexing that people feel the need to tighten lockrings with such force that such specialized tools are required for removal. You only need to hand-tighten -- very little pedal force goes through the lockring. In the past 10 years of doing this, I have never had a gear falloff, or shifting issues. In most cases, I don't require chainwhips at all (well, for lockrings at least)."

    I did the hand-tightening out of ignorance (and misplaced faith in the post on cycling forums). I intend to have the LBS use the FR tool to tighten the ring to the specified torque.

    Not worth risking the ring coming loose.

    Thank you fishcreek.

  11. #11
    What's the Speed of Dark?
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    there it is. sorry for low quality pics.
    I had to use a bit of the front sprocket as you can see (black square) to push onto the crank.
    then the middle gear went into the right spot on the crank and the lock nut deal behind it held it inplace.
    if you dont use that little bit of the front sprocket, you will never be able to tighten the sprocket all the way. it'll just wobble.
    Tricks Like: The Heavy Metal Maniac's Dizz Flip, Redefine the Term "Radness"

  12. #12
    What's the Speed of Dark?
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    maybe this will help a little, also
    Tricks Like: The Heavy Metal Maniac's Dizz Flip, Redefine the Term "Radness"

  13. #13
    one chain loop
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    No worries, but whoever this guy from cycling forum is, either has wrench-like grip or simply ignores safety. I am glad you disregarded his advice, picturing a small wobble of the cog from a loose lock ring, bad news.

    Quote Originally Posted by alligood
    From cyclingforums.com:
    "It is rather perplexing that people feel the need to tighten lockrings with such force that such specialized tools are required for removal. You only need to hand-tighten -- very little pedal force goes through the lockring. In the past 10 years of doing this, I have never had a gear falloff, or shifting issues. In most cases, I don't require chainwhips at all (well, for lockrings at least)."

    I did the hand-tightening out of ignorance (and misplaced faith in the post on cycling forums). I intend to have the LBS use the FR tool to tighten the ring to the specified torque.

    Not worth risking the ring coming loose.

    Thank you fishcreek.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  14. #14
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    it really only needs to be "hand tight". Do what you will, but that guy is right.
    - recognize

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