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  1. #1
    SVO
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    Hope SS hub QR Axle Mod

    SS crew:

    I am building up a new wheelset and decided to go with the Hope Pro II EVO SS/Trials hub as for me it's the best balance of durability (3 cartridge + needle bearing cylinder, steel carrier, 80-pt engagement), weight and cost. Comes as bolt-on, 135 spacing. I prefer the convenience of the RWS 10mm thru skewers and my slider dropouts don't need the bolt-on.

    Hope does not offer a 10mm conversion axle but they do offer a 12mmx135. After getting my hands on some quality 10x12 spacers/bushings, I went ahead and bought the axle kit. Swapping out the axle is easy-peasy (pulls apart like the regular Hope Pro II EVO) as long as you have the means to tap the bearings back in place safely. Bushings fit super snug with virtually no play.

    The Parts:
    • Hope HUB252 Axle conversion kit (Call Hope or order from UK)
    • 6 10x12x20 bushings (I.D. x O.D. x length) Source: 12mm OD x 10mm ID Shock Mount Reducer Bushing Adapters
    • Bearing set tool or heavy washer of correct size (I found one at Home Depot that works perfectly- don't recall size) plus a bit of pipe.
    • Hub support for setting bearing (heavy board with hole drilled in it works fine)
    • 10x135 DT RWS thru skewer


    A small plus is losing the heavy steel bolts. You can see the bushing in the latter pic. Now to build the wheels!

    Hope SS hub QR Axle Mod-img_1009.jpgHope SS hub QR Axle Mod-img_1010.jpg

  2. #2
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    Nice, I've got an SS hub that I wouldn't mind doing this to.

  3. #3
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    I did a conversion of an older non-EVO Hope SS hub. All I did was remove the bolt on axle and drill it open to 10mm and reinstall. Works like a charm, and no extra parts to buy!

  4. #4
    SVO
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I did a conversion of an older non-EVO Hope SS hub. All I did was remove the bolt on axle and drill it open to 10mm and reinstall. Works like a charm, and no extra parts to buy!
    The EVO stock axle bore is less than 10mm in the middle, so the whole length would need to be reamed-out, not just at the threaded ends. Maybe the pre-EVO is different.

    Assuming no machining equipment, you'd be looking at drilling from either end, by hand. Thought of that and discarded it. Prefer more care/precision, but to each his own.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SVO View Post
    The EVO stock axle bore is less than 10mm in the middle, so the whole length would need to be reamed-out, not just at the threaded ends. Maybe the pre-EVO is different.

    Assuming no machining equipment, you'd be looking at drilling from either end, by hand. Thought of that and discarded it. Prefer more care/precision, but to each his own.
    The axle bore on the older version is also less than 10mm in the middle. I put the axle on a lathe to open it up, but drilling from both sides would work too.

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    SVO
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    The axle bore on the older version is also less than 10mm in the middle. I put the axle on a lathe to open it up, but drilling from both sides would work too.
    Yeah, I'm thinking some folks don't have a metal lathe.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SVO View Post
    Yeah, I'm thinking some folks don't have a metal lathe.
    And I'm thinking some folks might want to save some money and just drill out the axle.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I did a conversion of an older non-EVO Hope SS hub. All I did was remove the bolt on axle and drill it open to 10mm and reinstall. Works like a charm, and no extra parts to buy!
    So you say you just drilled it out, when you actually put it on a metal lathe. Save money? By knowing a machinist who will work for free? Or by buying a metal lathe?

    Just so no one reading this wastes their own money, or potentially even injures themselves, the suggestion that one take a hand-held drill (or even a consumer grade drill press) and common high-speed bit to one of these axles is really poor advice. Drills have enough run-out that the hole will not be truly round, there is no way to perfectly align the 2 bores so they probably won't match-up and may be off-center, and the axle exterior will likely get damaged when the bit inevitably binds (too slow bit speed, too imprecise) and rotates the axle being held in a vise or what- have -you.

    But of course anyone who knows how to operate a metal lathe already knows all that, right Bikeny?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SVO View Post
    So you say you just drilled it out, when you actually put it on a metal lathe. Save money? By knowing a machinist who will work for free? Or by buying a metal lathe?

    Just so no one reading this wastes their own money, or potentially even injures themselves, the suggestion that one take a hand-held drill (or even a consumer grade drill press) and common high-speed bit to one of these axles is really poor advice. Drills have enough run-out that the hole will not be truly round, there is no way to perfectly align the 2 bores so they probably won't match-up and may be off-center, and the axle exterior will likely get damaged when the bit inevitably binds (too slow bit speed, too imprecise) and rotates the axle being held in a vise or what- have -you.

    But of course anyone who knows how to operate a metal lathe already knows all that, right Bikeny?
    OK Mr. Master Machinist. It's really not that complicated. Yes I used a lathe, but used a regular drill bit and went in from both sides. The bore does not need to perfect, just take a look at how much play there is between any axle and QR or thru bolt, it's not a precise fit. The axle is aluminum, any quality drill bit will have no problem opening up the hole.

    A hand drill is probably not the best tool but could work if you are careful. It can be done on a drill press no problem. Will it be easier on a lathe? absolutely. Is it required? absolutely not.

    Anyway, enjoy your Hope hub, I've been using them for years and they are great.

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