Here's my dinglespeed and it works!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Here's my dinglespeed and it works!

    Who needs a pair of chainrings to go with a pair of rear cogs. I decided to try it myself and it works so I am sharing here. I installed a 18 tooth rear next to a 20 tooth with the bevels facing away from each other. I moved the outer cog about 2 mm outwards from perfect chainline to try and center the chainline between the 2 cogs. If I want 34x20 for trail riding I loosen my sliders and move them all the way forward and if I want 34x18 for urban riding (which I have been doing a lot of lately) I move the chain to the inner cog and slide my sliders back about 3/4". I use an 8 speed chain so there is gobs of flex. It works. It works well. It is quiet. It is smooth and think it is staying on my bike. And the best part is I only have one front chainring and I don't have to shorten or add links to my chain. Rock on.....
    Here's my dinglespeed and it works!-14345083995440.jpg

  2. #2
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    I do the same thing on my SS cross bike. 42x20 for trails and racing, then I put a 16 and 14 on as well with spacers in between the cogs. Works great.

  3. #3
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    If you put a second chain ring on the front, you can select it such that you use the same chain length without a need to adjust the dropouts - White Industries sold a kit like this (Dos-Eno).

  4. #4
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    Nice! Another reason 8spd chains rule. I wish my bike's sliders were easier to use. I seriously need to dingle it because the "riding a SS on flat pavement for a long time" struggle is real.

  5. #5
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    I find the 18 cog to be ideal for paved use and in addition my legs are getting stronger so 34x20 feels like granny.

  6. #6
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    I am going to try this tomorrow! I am running a conversion with the Surly Singleater. It has a wore out spring and was zip-tied up. I came across a picture where someone used a rubberband from a broccoli stalk to apply tension. I have an 18t(so close to being a magic gear that it probably doesn't even need a tensioner) and 16t I am going to try and use. I will try to post the results tomorrow!
    Rocky Mountain Element Sport
    Zion 660 singlespeed

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprocket_Rocket View Post
    I am going to try this tomorrow! I am running a conversion with the Surly Singleater. It has a wore out spring and was zip-tied up. I came across a picture where someone used a rubberband from a broccoli stalk to apply tension. I have an 18t(so close to being a magic gear that it probably doesn't even need a tensioner) and 16t I am going to try and use. I will try to post the results tomorrow!
    I remember zip tying my singulator up and it made it noisy. But it did work.

  8. #8
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    Just thinking out of the box a bit...

    If you used a chain tensioner, you could actually change rear cogs on the trail by just pushing it over to the other cog without adjusting the sliders. In fact, if you put the chain tensioner on a pivot, you could probably change cogs with one hand.

    Taking that a step further, a simple cable and spring, connected to a lever on your bar might even let you move from cog to cog on the fly!

    Meh...never mind. Crazy talk. It would never work.


  9. #9
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    Sadly the tensioner didn't work. I wasn't able to get out enough slack on the 16t an still be able to go back to the 18t. The zip ties made it noisy on mine too.

    EDIT: It will work if I put a new zip-tie on every time I switch from the 16t to the 18t. I might also try putting a new spring in but it probably won't last long as the original spring only lasted for 2 weeks(I think). Any suggestions on something that can tighten and loosen with some kind of mechanism? I was thinking something along the lines of a hose clamp but I don't want to dig into my chainstay especially when I'm getting it powdercoated soon.
    Rocky Mountain Element Sport
    Zion 660 singlespeed

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