Help understanding Bottom Bracket Standards- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Help understanding Bottom Bracket Standards

    Like many, my Cannondale SL3 SS EBB is creaking incessantly. A new Bushnell EBB is on the way and I would like to take the opportunity to swap out the bottom bracket and crank. It seems like the conventional route is to stick with square taper already installed but I was looking for other options. End game is to drop some weight in both the EBB and crank. I must be missing something because when doing a search for "standard english threaded bottom brackets (1.37 X 24 tpi)", nothing conclusive pops out as being the correct parts to purchase. My questions are the following"

    1. What choice's do I have for bottom brackets with the Bushnell EBB?
    2. Will the bottom bracket have some kind adaptor to fit any crank?
    3. Am I mistaken in thinking that swapping square taper to another standard, ie bb30 or other, will save weight and allow use of late model crank choices?

    Sorry if the questions seem elementary but after many hours of research Im more confused now then when I started. In-site would be appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Your mistake was EBB in the first place, if you are looking at weight. I mean, lighter to do square taper in a normal bb, egh?

    Anywho, don't sell out square taper. If you do, I won't have anyone to talk five bolt cranks with, and we're becoming precious few. Isn't 94bcd the ****?

  3. #3
    CB2
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    I don't know of any adapter to use a BB30 crank in a EBB shell.
    You can get pretty light with an old square taper crank and bb; I had Raceface Turbines and Ti Taperlock BB that weighed just over 600g with a Salsa ring.

    But you've got to search out the vintage stuff that will cost you as much as boutiquey new stuff and will you really notice 100gs?

    Yeah 94mm bcd was the ****.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by umarth View Post
    Your mistake was EBB in the first place, if you are looking at weight. I mean, lighter to do square taper in a normal bb, egh?

    Anywho, don't sell out square taper. If you do, I won't have anyone to talk five bolt cranks with, and we're becoming precious few. Isn't 94bcd the ****?
    Thanks for the response. I was really looking at a low cost entry level SS and didn't consider sliders vs EBB etc. it was intended to be a backup bike but has transformed into more of an obsession.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by CB2 View Post
    I don't know of any adapter to use a BB30 crank in a EBB shell.
    You can get pretty light with an old square taper crank and bb; I had Raceface Turbines and Ti Taperlock BB that weighed just over 600g with a Salsa ring.

    But you've got to search out the vintage stuff that will cost you as much as boutiquey new stuff and will you really notice 100gs?

    Yeah 94mm bcd was the ****.
    y

    Thank you for the response. Don't really mind the extra 100 grams but I'm not that thrilled with the design of the vintage stuff I've seen. I had considered the White Industries crank and BB but was told the Titanium version wasnt Clyde friendly and had proprietary rings.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by t51rmkiv View Post
    y

    Thank you for the response. Don't really mind the extra 100 grams but I'm not that thrilled with the design of the vintage stuff I've seen. I had considered the White Industries crank and BB but was told the Titanium version wasnt Clyde friendly and had proprietary rings.
    I have the WI crank and Ti bb, but I am a pipsqueak. You can use the WI crank with a $25 Shimano UN54 bb which has a steel spindle.

  7. #7
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    Re positioning the EBB to tighten the chain

    Slightly off topic (apologies to the OP), but I am struggling to get to grips with the EBB in my Niner SIR9 frame. No matter how hard I tighten it, I am getting slippage that gradually slackens the chain, that needs attention every month or so. Not a major PITA, but I'd like to know, when re-positioning the EBB to tighten the chain again:

    1. is it necessary to loosen the crank off before loosening the EBB? (i.e. is the crank clamping down on the EBB? - I just can't work this out!) and

    2. is there a trick to rotating the EBB just the fraction necessary to tighten the chain again (I find it is stuck and very difficult to shift (I am having to resort to knocking it around with a hammer and chisel sometimes!)

    ... may seem like stoopid questions but I'd really appreciate some advice on this from someone who has had similar issues. thanks

  8. #8
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    I used to own a Rig with the Bushnell EBB. I had the same issues as most everyone-creaking and sometimes hard to adjust. I fixed both issues like this:

    -Take the EBB and run a 1200 grit sandpaper lightly on all the outer contact surfaces that touch the BB shell. Also take apart the wedge and lightly sand the interfaces between the wedge and EBB.
    -Same sandpaper lightly sand the inside of BB shell. Clean it all up with some brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol. What this does is remove high spots on the mating surfaces which gives a greater contact patch to help stop slipping, and with less movement down there the creaking goes away too.
    -Lightly coat all the surfaces you just sanded with moly lube. I used Bel Ray sourced from my local MX shop. This helps it move when you want to adjust the chain and protects the surfaces from rubbing so hard against each other and creaking and wearing.

    It worked great and I reapplied the moly every third drivetrain cleaning-takes no time at all after a couple times doing it. Also-I never use water to clean my bike with so I did not have to worry about that, and reapplied after riding in the wet, which is rare here in AZ.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by spencerfrater1 View Post
    Slightly off topic (apologies to the OP), but I am struggling to get to grips with the EBB in my Niner SIR9 frame. No matter how hard I tighten it, I am getting slippage that gradually slackens the chain, that needs attention every month or so. Not a major PITA, but I'd like to know, when re-positioning the EBB to tighten the chain again:

    1. is it necessary to loosen the crank off before loosening the EBB? (i.e. is the crank clamping down on the EBB? - I just can't work this out!) and

    2. is there a trick to rotating the EBB just the fraction necessary to tighten the chain again (I find it is stuck and very difficult to shift (I am having to resort to knocking it around with a hammer and chisel sometimes!)

    ... may seem like stoopid questions but I'd really appreciate some advice on this from someone who has had similar issues. thanks
    No worries, I know it can be frustrating. I havn't gone as far as sanding and lubing as said below on my stock EBB (Bushnell is waiting to be installed) and have resigned to doing a light clean and tighten of EBB before every ride. Ive read alittle on the Niner EBB and the frustrations of its owners but dont have any first hand experience. The mechanics of adjustments should be the same however. There are have been times where the EBB was tougher then others to rotate and needed alittle coaxing with a rubber hammer by taping the crank arm side of the stuck wedge, done with crank still on the bike. What you'll find is that EBB can move around forward, rearward, out, and in inside the BB shell. On your Niner however, there is compound used to prevent slippage that is probably making it difficult to rotate. I use an allen key, inserted into an open slot of the stock cannondale ebb and open hole on the chain ring, and rotate the crank arm to adjust the ebb forward or rearward.

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