Gearing advice specifically for SS 29 plus bike?...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Gearing advice specifically for SS 29 plus bike?...

    Hi

    I will be building a 29 plus rigid SS so and wondered what kind of gear you guys are running?

    When I've ran SS in the past on "normal" wheels I've ran anything from 32/16 to 32/19 but Iím running a 30T chainring on this bike and wondered what a good place to start would be?...

  2. #2
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    1 tooth bigger on the rear cog than you'd run on a 29er is a good place start when keeping the same chainring size.

    This calculator can help you figure out your gearing since you're changing both your wheel diameter and chainring size. Keep in mind the weight of 29+ rims and tires is a factor too.

    https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html

  3. #3
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    Thank you, thatís great. I was going to go for a 30/18 I think but Iíll sit down and work through it before ordering parts.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Hi

    I will be building a 29 plus rigid SS so and wondered what kind of gear you guys are running?

    When I've ran SS in the past on "normal" wheels I've ran anything from 32/16 to 32/19 but Iím running a 30T chainring on this bike and wondered what a good place to start would be?...
    I just converted my SS from 29 2.35F / 2.2R 100mm fork to 3.0 front/rear rigid fork. I had been running 34x19 (oval chainring) all year and kept the same gearing for 29x3.0. I only have 2 rides in and I don't really feel it being any tougher. I might be worth a half a tooth in the back. The 3.0 do ride different and I have not fully dialed these in yet, but so for so good. I do know some guys like 1 tooth bigger and others like the same gearing. It could depend on how strong you are in the current gearing. If you are just barely making it in the current ratio then 1 tooth bigger might be better. If you are riding strong in your current gear then maybe stay with it. I have been doing well in 34x19 and was for some trails considering 34x18 for my most common trails once I got out of the summer heat. So this maybe part it.

    Also roughly speaking 2 teeth on the chainring =1 on the back so 34x19 = 32x18 = 30x17 Now this "roughly" as the ratios are not quite exact. Also the wheels feel different. Harder to get rolling, but when you come to a set of rocks or steep section they maintain momentum better. So when you hit those rocks or steep bit it takes a bit less effort muscle through. The bike is tougher to get rolling, but also rocks slow it down less on climbs so the overall effort is mixed. Someplaces more and others less.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    I just converted my SS from 29 2.35F / 2.2R 100mm fork to 3.0 front/rear rigid fork. I had been running 34x19 (oval chainring) all year and kept the same gearing for 29x3.0. I only have 2 rides in and I don't really feel it being any tougher. I might be worth a half a tooth in the back. The 3.0 do ride different and I have not fully dialed these in yet, but so for so good. I do know some guys like 1 tooth bigger and others like the same gearing. It could depend on how strong you are in the current gearing. If you are just barely making it in the current ratio then 1 tooth bigger might be better. If you are riding strong in your current gear then maybe stay with it. I have been doing well in 34x19 and was for some trails considering 34x18 for my most common trails once I got out of the summer heat. So this maybe part it.

    Also roughly speaking 2 teeth on the chainring =1 on the back so 34x19 = 32x18 = 30x17 Now this "roughly" as the ratios are not quite exact. Also the wheels feel different. Harder to get rolling, but when you come to a set of rocks or steep section they maintain momentum better. So when you hit those rocks or steep bit it takes a bit less effort muscle through. The bike is tougher to get rolling, but also rocks slow it down less on climbs so the overall effort is mixed. Someplaces more and others less.
    Thank you very much for your input that really helps a lot. The cog I'm looking at using, a Wolftooth Stainless Steel, is available in 17T so it should be a good place to start.

  6. #6
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    It really depends on where/how you like to ride. 30x17 sounds like a small gear if you've run 32x16 or 32x18 in the past.

    For what it's worth, on rolling XC terrain with very little sustained uphill riding, I ride 35x21 on my Krampus with 29x3" tires where I used to run 34x19 on my Surly Instigator with 26x2.75" tires and 32x16 on my Redline Monocog with "regular" 2.2x29" tires.

    In my experience, different bike geometry and tire tread style have more of an impact on my gear selection than tire size. But the beauty of singlespeed riding is that rear cogs are fairly inexpensive, so trying out different ratios isn't cost prohibitive and gives you more options for different types of riding.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Thank you very much for your input that really helps a lot. The cog I'm looking at using, a Wolftooth Stainless Steel, is available in 17T so it should be a good place to start.
    well just because I a run a similar ratio I can't say I will work for you. If you used to run 32x16, 17,18, 19 before then I would say you can run any of those ratios with plus. Whatever ratio you would run before just try it on plus, but you just need to convert to 30t chainring vs 32. If you don't like it change it. It seems like you already had an assortment of cogs
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  8. #8
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    I run 32 oval x 20 on my 29er and 32x22 on my 29+. seems to work out really nice for me.

  9. #9
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    Run 30x21 on my 29+ with DHFs f/r, steep but short ups around here, works good in rocks as well keeping the big rubber spinning.
    Canfield Riot SS
    ROS9+ SS
    ROS9 SS
    GT Peace 9R SS

  10. #10
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    Thanks guys for your input. I think my main take away is it's all very subjective, all based on each individual's local terrain, fitness, geometry etc.

    I think I'm going to stick to 30/18 to begin with and see how I get on.

    I shall report back...

  11. #11
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    Iím running 30x18 on my Waltworks SS. Of course Iím running 170mm cranks. Awesome gearing.

  12. #12
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    Vassago Mooseknuckle I run for training a 32ovalx18 When a race comes around I either go to a 32x19 or 32x20 all being 3" tires
    If i go down to normal 29 rims. I do 32x18 for training and for the races i stay there or do 32x19, Mainly depends on the race. Have 2 12 hour races coming up. I'll be 3" and 32x20 for both
    Too Many .

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by coke View Post
    1 tooth bigger on the rear cog than you'd run on a 29er is a good place start when keeping the same chainring size.
    I found this to be my experience as well, going from 29x2.3 to 2.6 to 3.0.
    FWIW, I ride the same trails as JoePAz and Brent701, and typically use 32x19 as my go-to gearing. Most of our trails average out at 100-125í per mile of climbing.
    Iíll pop on a 20 for high elevation, or a few of the notoriously steep rides locally, and have 32x18 for the very flattest of trails.
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  14. #14
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    I agree with most above. +1 tooth on the rear, maybe +2 depending on the setup/terrain.

    I run 34:20 on my 29er with oval. I currently have 32:21 on the 29+ with 3.0 Minions and may even go 1 tooth easier (it's significantly heavier). I may also go back to 180mm cranks for extra leverage but that doesn't make a big difference in gear ratio.

    There's a lot of moving parts to this. My SS 29er is pretty light with no suspension or dropper, call it 24 lbs (XL steel frame with pretty light components). My Krampus is just over 30 lbs with a dropper, squish fork, and big rubber. I think if it was set up the same as the rigid with light stuff, +1 tooth would be sufficient.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  15. #15
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    BTW, what frame? Post pics when the time comes.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    BTW, what frame? Post pics when the time comes.
    Itís long story...

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...6&share_type=t

    But basically I have a new frame being made up which will pave the way for my original Waltworks to be built up as a singlespeeder.

    Iíll post pics up when itís built.

    Thanks everyone for all the replies, this really has given me a lot to think about and I have a good idea which way Iím going with it now.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Thank you, thatís great. I was going to go for a 30/18 I think but Iíll sit down and work through it before ordering parts.
    Iím running 30:18 on a 27.5+ Timberjack. Itís just a little spinny on the flats, but good for climbing. For 29+, Iíd probably run 30:19 or 30:20, but I climb a lot, too. Your local trails and riding style will dictate much of your gearing for MUW...
    Salsa Timberjack SS
    -Gears give me headaches

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sage of the Sage View Post
    Iím running 30:18 on a 27.5+ Timberjack. Itís just a little spinny on the flats, but good for climbing. For 29+, Iíd probably run 30:19 or 30:20, but I climb a lot, too. Your local trails and riding style will dictate much of your gearing for MUW...
    Thanks Sage this is for UW NOT MUW though!

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