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Thread: Gearing?

  1. #1
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    Reputation: Rocket Reducer No. 62's Avatar
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    Gearing?

    Howdy,

    I was wondering what gearing everyone uses and in what conditions. The reason I ask is everytime I switch to something easier than 2:1, I fall over a lot when climbing. Sure, it's easier, but when I get to the point where I need to stand, the back tire looses traction and BIFF! down I go. But when I run 2:1, although I can't stay seated as long, I can actually clear more hills and technical sections due to the improved traction. I ride in predominately dry conditions, at least in the summer. I'm running high volume/low pressure rubber (I'm 225# and I run 32 psi in the rear and25 psi up front) and 180mm cranks.

    The reason I ask is to make it easier to clear some hills that have so far been un-clearable.

    Thanks.
    James
    ---------------
    my bike sucks!

  2. #2
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    Reputation: rockcrusher's Avatar
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    re: gearing and hauling @ss…

    Quote Originally Posted by Rocket Reducer No. 62
    Howdy,

    I was wondering what gearing everyone uses and in what conditions. The reason I ask is everytime I switch to something easier than 2:1, I fall over a lot when climbing. Sure, it's easier, but when I get to the point where I need to stand, the back tire looses traction and BIFF! down I go. But when I run 2:1, although I can't stay seated as long, I can actually clear more hills and technical sections due to the improved traction. I ride in predominately dry conditions, at least in the summer. I'm running high volume/low pressure rubber (I'm 225# and I run 32 psi in the rear and25 psi up front) and 180mm cranks.

    The reason I ask is to make it easier to clear some hills that have so far been un-clearable.

    Thanks.
    I run 34x16 for a trail that I mostly ride here in Tucson that really flows and generally for some of the less flowing more rocky trails here too.
    I also run 180's, weigh the same as you and am running WTB2.4's front and rear with 36psi front and 34psi rear. I find that I can muscle up almost any hill here and the taller gear allows me to go much faster on the flats and carry more speed into hills thus making them easier to attack and clean. I have never tried anything lower than a 32x16, and if anything I find that 32x16 can make hills (arizona short steep hills not those long extended type hills that some of you ride) a little harder to clean as well.

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  3. #3
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    Reputation: pacman's Avatar
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    Losing traction = too much weight on the front.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pacman
    Losing traction = too much weight on the front.
    Yeah, you would think, but it's independent of body positioning. I'm hep to that, I'm just saying around here (GV/Nevada City), climbing out of the seat with less than a 2:1 ratio on rooty, rocky, soft powdery (or pine needle infested) climbs one tends to spin out at the slightest provocation, dig? Hit a little rock or root with the rear wheel, combined with the soft soil, and down you go. 2:1 and harder gearing doesn't do that, because you're doing that just-before-the-lactic-acid-kills-you cadence, nice and slow and swimmy, on the edge of anaerobic, and the gearing is too hard to suddenly spin out when the back tire looses traction for a moment. My question was more along the lines of how to do somewhat technical sustained climbs with an easier ratio without the spin out factor.

    I'm cool 95% of the time with 2:1 gearing, it's just that there are a few hills around here I have to walk, steep sustained kind of hills. One out at Forresthill in particular...

    Mind you, no one is paying me to ride for them, and I am just out there to be out there, so walking a few spots isn't a sin or anything.
    James
    ---------------
    my bike sucks!

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