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  1. #1
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    Gear inch ratio

    I think that's the term.... what's your preferred setup? I just picked up an el mar with 32t x 18t and I feel like I can't pedal fast enough to reach the speeds I am after.

    Thinking of maybe coming down to a 16t in the rear.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    I haven't ridden anything but a 32 x 18 on a 26" wheel. It just feels right to me!
    Oops, in the day, I owned a Schwinn Paramount track bike with some massive gears and those tires made of used condoms! You used your right gloved hand as a brake in combination with the fixed rear end. It rocked, and I wish I still owned it.
    My legs were extensive and my palm was sore! Ruined my love life, but I digress!

  3. #3
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    It really just depends on where you ride and that type of terrain you have.


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    I'm in central Florida. Do a bit of everything with the exception of steep hills. 29er wheels

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    I'm sure a 16 would work fine. Single speeders in your area will have good advice if you get a chance to talk with some.
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  6. #6
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    I don't want to be "that a$$hole, but if you're spinning out and not happy with the gears, just snag a cheap surly cog a few teeth smaller and slap it on. See what you think for a few rides.

    32x16 seems insane to me, but my favorite 'hurt me' loop is 12 miles and 2100' of climbing. I run 34x22 and never feel spun out.
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  7. #7
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    Get the hardest gear you can handle spinning up most of the hills you ride. I would rather spin several miles of flat than have to walk a hill that I would have crushed if I had chosen a slightly easier gear. For me, that's 32/20 on 29x2.35 tires, although I have been pushing 32x19 and 18 lately to see what my limit is.

  8. #8
    Always in the wrong gear
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    ^^^^ This.

    Pushing a bike because you geared for the flats sucks.
    Then again, I have weenie legs and can't push big gears, so I spin at 100rpm and watch my friends pull away.
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

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    Yeah, just use the right gear for the toughest sections of your ride, for the majority of the trail. I am currently at 36x18. I can reach 15 mph on the pavement spinning near 90 rpm. Not a problem. However, I didn't get into single speed mountain biking to ride on pavement...hehehe. Unfortunately, I find myself grinding it, around 60 rpm, on bumpy grass field. And mashing it on some steeper sections. I have just ordered a 32t chain ring and see if I could spin more on some of the difficult sections.

    For me, I am not after my top speed, but to get through some tough sections without mashing it standing up. I would like to keep pedaling too to maintain my momentum in some of the more technical, twisty trails.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jball1125 View Post
    I think that's the term.... what's your preferred setup? I just picked up an el mar with 32t x 18t and I feel like I can't pedal fast enough to reach the speeds I am after.

    Thinking of maybe coming down to a 16t in the rear.

    Thoughts?
    32:18 is a very common gear ratio on a 29er. being that your in Florida you can push a much bigger gear. a 16t cog is not a bad place to start, but you may want to consider a bigger chainring first. it's best to use a GI calculator but roughly speaking two teeth in the front is worth one in the rear, so a 36t chainring with your 18t cog would give you approx. the same ratio as a 16t cog with your current chainring. here's why i would recommend that.

    i prefer slightly larger chainrings/cogs to the "micro-drive" setup. for a mtb i personally think 16t cogs are the lower limit of what i would want to run. i prefer to be in the 17-22t range in the rear. bigger cogs allow more links of the chain to be engaged (more chain wrap) and thus tend to prevent dropped chains a little better, and they also wear a little slower.

    if you go with a 16t cog and decide you want a little more gear your going to end up with a bigger chainring anyway. if you start with the chainring it leaves you room for adjustment in either direction out back.

    it's not a major deal, just a thought.
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  11. #11
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    Much depends on the rider in addition to the terrain. I tend to go with a larger chainring as opposed to smaller cog when I want to setup more stout gearing. Primary objective is the same as others: avoid a gear ratio that is too steep to make it up the most challenging climbs.

    My typical gearing is 36x18 (my friends typically run 33 or 32 chainrings with 18t or 19t cogs on the same trails).

    I've never dropped a chain on a single speed (SS hub or geared hub with SS cog)...
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  12. #12
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    You will have to learn which gear to use to get you what you want. My previous SS was a 26er and played around with ratios a bit. It all depend on terrain and how "dialed in" I wanted to be.

    For general riding I started with a 32x17. This was enough that I could grind up 5 to 8 min climbs at 4-5 mph and ride comfortably to 14 mph. Beyond that I started getting into super spinning mode. I had a 12hr race (duo so doing 1 hr laps) and this was on mostly flat fast terrain with some short hills near the end. I knew I would spin out at 18-19 mph horribly with 32x17 gearing so I had to change. I moved to 35x17 gearing and tested it out. Work perfect for a while. 35x17 allowed me to just sit and spin in the first gradual 30 min climb on the lap. I was a bit tough, but seating climbing 12.5 mph was needed for this course. I just about spun out on the fast 19 mph downhill and could manage the slower, but short 1-2 min grinder climbs near the end of the lap. Overall this gear was fastest. However after 3 laps of this I was done. I could no longer pull that gear seated so moved to 33x17. This caused me to stay seated on the 30 min climb, but was slower and I did spin out more, but it was all I could handle for the last 30 miles or so.

    Since then I moved to 29er SS and run 34x19 and 34x20. Running all the numbers the 35x17 is effectivly 32x17 on 29er and 33x17 is 32x18,

    I convert these numbers to 29er Ratio because a very common mixed climb gear is 32x19 for 29er. 32x17 is best for "flats" and 32x20 or 21 is good for extended climbs. My current bike runs a 34t chain ring so that is effective the same 1tooth less in the rear cog. So 34x19 = 32x18 and 34x20 = 32x19.

    So there are many ways to get what you want and most SS riders have few cogs to play with if they want to dial in the bike to the ride. In the end however every one is different so you can start someplace and then move to the gearing that works for you.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  13. #13
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    I think your instinct is right. If I was in Florida, I'd have at least a 2:1 ratio, probably even higher. Anything lower than 2:1 could become a bit of a bore after a while on the flats.

    I just acquired a bike that has a 2.6:1 ratio. The previous owner put it together as sort of a mongrel DJ bike. I don't expect to get it on the trails much at all, considering the long gear, but on the streets of my neighborhood it's actually a really good gear. Our neighborhood is a bit hilly, and I thought I'd have trouble climbing on that gear, but actually it was good for my cadence. I usually pump away for a few reps and then rest for a beat or two, lather rinse repeat. On that gear I was pumping away all the way to the top. Very surprised, because on my road bike I struggle up the same grade on just the 2:1.

    I think I'd recommend a 2.3:1, then see if you go up or down from there.
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  14. #14
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    32x16 on my 26er love it on the climbs its perfect however it sucks balls on the flats it gets me a max of about 15mph on the flats which is ok I guess but I'm red lining... I find this the best compromise for me with the climbing we have here in Colorado not sure I can push a bigger gear up the climbs so it is what it is.

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  15. #15
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    On my Genesis Fortitude it's 32:18 (55GI from memory), as above, spinny on the hardtop maxing at about 12mph but good for the trails round here, not hilly but generally muddy, rooted and very tight.

    My road commuter bike is 52:17 (83GI)
    2018 commutes - 26 days, 542 miles

  16. #16
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    Thanks all for the replies. Sounds like I need to try some stuff out. I think Ill start by dropping two teeth in the rear since its the easiest change and move from there.

    Thanks again.

  17. #17
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    Alot of guys on here are flat out lying to you. They say they push bigger gears to sound cool.

    I know they are lying because simple math shows errors in their statements.

    You can train yourself to spin at any cadence. "Spinning out" doesnt start till about 165 rpm. These guys are saying they are spun out at 105. Thats cause they are out of shape or lazy or not willing to suffer.

    When you can spin that 32/18 at 125 rpm for 5 miles constant then switch to a 17. And do the same thing. Train your legs to have many cadences.

    All these people saying oh its Florida you need 2/1 or more. Clueless. The number one rule of ss is no two people use the same gear the same way.

    I run 32 oval/17 on a 29er with 2.2 tires at fast road group rides. I can hold 24/25 mph with ease. Can hit 28 for periods. These guys are talking about being spun out at 15mph on 2/1. Cause they dont have their legs and lungs trained. Ive passed road bikes pedaling on downhills at 160rpm at 30+mph.

    32/18 is a good starting point to train your legs. Ive won every race by using a gear or two easier than my competition and spinning up quicker and blowing past them and then going to 120-150 rpm and leaving them in my dust. Thats 32/17 vs 36/17 same trails.

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    You will have to learn which gear to use to get you what you want. My previous SS was a 26er and played around with ratios a bit. It all depend on terrain and how "dialed in" I wanted to be.

    For general riding I started with a 32x17. This was enough that I could grind up 5 to 8 min climbs at 4-5 mph and ride comfortably to 14 mph. Beyond that I started getting into super spinning mode. I had a 12hr race (duo so doing 1 hr laps) and this was on mostly flat fast terrain with some short hills near the end. I knew I would spin out at 18-19 mph horribly with 32x17 gearing so I had to change. I moved to 35x17 gearing and tested it out. Work perfect for a while. 35x17 allowed me to just sit and spin in the first gradual 30 min climb on the lap. I was a bit tough, but seating climbing 12.5 mph was needed for this course. I just about spun out on the fast 19 mph downhill and could manage the slower, but short 1-2 min grinder climbs near the end of the lap. Overall this gear was fastest. However after 3 laps of this I was done. I could no longer pull that gear seated so moved to 33x17. This caused me to stay seated on the 30 min climb, but was slower and I did spin out more, but it was all I could handle for the last 30 miles or so.

    Since then I moved to 29er SS and run 34x19 and 34x20. Running all the numbers the 35x17 is effectivly 32x17 on 29er and 33x17 is 32x18,

    I convert these numbers to 29er Ratio because a very common mixed climb gear is 32x19 for 29er. 32x17 is best for "flats" and 32x20 or 21 is good for extended climbs. My current bike runs a 34t chain ring so that is effective the same 1tooth less in the rear cog. So 34x19 = 32x18 and 34x20 = 32x19.

    So there are many ways to get what you want and most SS riders have few cogs to play with if they want to dial in the bike to the ride. In the end however every one is different so you can start someplace and then move to the gearing that works for you.
    Legit knowledgeable answer

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jball1125 View Post
    Thanks all for the replies. Sounds like I need to try some stuff out. I think Ill start by dropping two teeth in the rear since its the easiest change and move from there.

    Thanks again.
    Start by spinning faster. Train your muscles and nerves and lungs

    Spinning out for me...

    Would have to be over 215rpm and over 198bpm.

    Most guys spinning out.. 102rpm and 150 bpm

    Dont be afraid to push your body
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  20. #20
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    Well everyone is different and spinning out means different things. Last night I did 15 mile 1600ft loop on mostly smooth terrain, but with 4 5 to 9 min sustained climbs ranging from 5% to 9% avg grade per strava. I did this ride in my intermediate 34x20 ratio. Turns out I was slower than on when using 34x19. Easier in some respects, but slower because my standing cadence is pretty much set. I get my body into a rhythm and climb away. With a steeper gear I simply go faster for the same cadence. Yes it is harder. Then on flats or seated parts of the ride it is the same story. Personally If I am over 100 rpm cadence I just go slower. I am not comfortable spinning the fast. I do better pushing a steeper gear on the climbs. However every person is different. My teammate for the 12 hr SS race ran lap times the same as mine, but did it one gear lower (easier). He was better spinning that me. No shame there. Use what you works best, but in the end you need to try them out and see what works. Some guys like to spin and others l prefer to grind.

    SS is always a compromise. Greared riding means you have all the options you can use. SS you pick one and make the best of it, but do some homework to pick the right one, It not faster overall, but forces your technique which can make you a faster rider.
    Joe
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaneDetroitCity View Post
    Alot of guys on here are flat out lying to you. They say they push bigger gears to sound cool.

    I know they are lying because simple math shows errors in their statements.

    All these people saying oh its Florida you need 2/1 or more. Clueless. The number one rule of ss is no two people use the same gear the same way.
    These invectives appear to be a reaction to my post, haha. That's okay, but if you're going to call people out for 'lying,' and trying to 'look cool,' and being 'clueless,' I think you're the one drawing false conclusions here.

    A 2:1 ratio is considered the standard SS MTB ratio. That's what experienced SS riders have said for years. I'm in California, and I've ridden 2:1 for hundreds of miles, on flats and hills, dirt and street. I can corroborate from my own experience that 2:1 is a really good SS gear in a wide range of situations. So when I say 2:1 would be a good gear for Florida, that's from experience. I stand by it.

    To further my point, many fixie riders ride much longer gears than 2:1. Yes, I'm sure in Florida, too. I've had fixie guys pass me like I'm standing still, on 3:1 ratios and higher. So there's no way you can just throw a blanket over everyone touting 2:1+ and say they're wrong. Tons of riders go higher. I have a 2.6:1 on one bike, but there's nothing bragging or looking cool about it--I'm saying it makes sense if you apply the gear in the right situations. Same as any gear choice.

    I ride for one reason and one reason only: to have fun. I don't ride to see how fast I can pedal or even how fast I can go. I don't ride to find or push my limits. I can ride a 33/18 or a 39/22 on flats all day and never get over 15 mph, and I'm still having fun. And I can ride a 3:1+ on a road bike at 30+ mph, and that's fun, too. If you're having fun counting reps and competing and pushing your body to your limits, have a blast! We're all in it for different reasons.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Well everyone is different and spinning out means different things. Last night I did 15 mile 1600ft loop on mostly smooth terrain, but with 4 5 to 9 min sustained climbs ranging from 5% to 9% avg grade per strava. I did this ride in my intermediate 34x20 ratio. Turns out I was slower than on when using 34x19. Easier in some respects, but slower because my standing cadence is pretty much set. I get my body into a rhythm and climb away. With a steeper gear I simply go faster for the same cadence. Yes it is harder. Then on flats or seated parts of the ride it is the same story. Personally If I am over 100 rpm cadence I just go slower. I am not comfortable spinning the fast. I do better pushing a steeper gear on the climbs. However every person is different. My teammate for the 12 hr SS race ran lap times the same as mine, but did it one gear lower (easier). He was better spinning that me. No shame there. Use what you works best, but in the end you need to try them out and see what works. Some guys like to spin and others l prefer to grind.

    SS is always a compromise. Greared riding means you have all the options you can use. SS you pick one and make the best of it, but do some homework to pick the right one, It not faster overall, but forces your technique which can make you a faster rider.
    Thats because one thing that us not discussed usually when asking what gear is torque. You need torque. If you are on a smooth uninterrupted climb you can maintain that high cadence and forward progress. If you are on a more bumpy and technical climb youll need that harder gear to maintain torque when bouncing around and not have the wheel slipping. So in your example that one cog less took away your torque and you settled into your rhythm but your mechanical advantage was less. So you were slower. Like you said its a fine balancing act.

    I dont think 2/1 is good for just starting you need to work your legs up to it. Its easy to get bogged down and start pedaling squares. So stick to a gear you can spin smooth just spin it faster. And faster.

    In my experience the only place ss i slower is pedaling downhill. So thats where you should learn like 175rpm so you can even out that disadvantage.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaneDetroitCity;12992677..
    In my experience the only place ss i slower is pedaling downhill. So thats where you should learn like 175rpm so you can even out that disadvantage.
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    SS can be faster uphill or slower. Depends on how you attack the climb. SS takes more aggressive approach to a climb which often means you climb it faster that geared. However it depends alot on the gear used. Of course as the climb gets longer things change and if the climb gets really steep you can run out of gear. SS can be really fast in rolling terrain were you hammer the short climbs and keep you speed up. Geared riding can do the same thing, but often times riders simply go down gears and spin out and such go slower.

    The other thing about SS is endurance is different from geared. As geared rider getting into SS I don't have the same endurance SS as I do geared. I can do long distance geared rides because if I get shelled 5 hrs into the ride I can gear down just spin up climbs as needed. On SS I get one gear. Currently most of my SS rides are 4hrs or less. . I do have 100 mile 12hrish SS ride planed for Saturday to help get past that. I can do all of those trails on 34x19, but will be running 34x20 just account for late ride fatigue. We will see how it goes.
    Joe
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  24. #24
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    I run 32x17 on my redline monocog 29er. 34x20 on my krampus 29+. feels about the same, I haven't done the maths though. I'm in flat kansas, but we have sand and wind so that is our wildcard. In the mountains I'll run lower gearing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LaneDetroitCity View Post
    Alot of guys on here are flat out lying to you. They say they push bigger gears to sound cool.

    I know they are lying because simple math shows errors in their statements.

    You can train yourself to spin at any cadence. "Spinning out" doesnt start till about 165 rpm. These guys are saying they are spun out at 105. Thats cause they are out of shape or lazy or not willing to suffer.

    When you can spin that 32/18 at 125 rpm for 5 miles constant then switch to a 17. And do the same thing. Train your legs to have many cadences.

    All these people saying oh its Florida you need 2/1 or more. Clueless. The number one rule of ss is no two people use the same gear the same way.

    I run 32 oval/17 on a 29er with 2.2 tires at fast road group rides. I can hold 24/25 mph with ease. Can hit 28 for periods. These guys are talking about being spun out at 15mph on 2/1. Cause they dont have their legs and lungs trained. Ive passed road bikes pedaling on downhills at 160rpm at 30+mph.

    32/18 is a good starting point to train your legs. Ive won every race by using a gear or two easier than my competition and spinning up quicker and blowing past them and then going to 120-150 rpm and leaving them in my dust. Thats 32/17 vs 36/17 same trails.

    SPIN TO WIN

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    Lane, You need to stop talking like you are some sorta veteran single speeder that has won a bunch of races because your not! What races have you won? What category? Bottom line is math, gear ratios, blah blah blah don't win real mountain bike races. Tactics, fitness, and ability do!
    Back on point, get a bunch of cogs, and chain rings, don't be afraid to change them around, find what you like riding, ride what gear twirls you beanie. After all the whole point of SS MTB is simplicity!

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevrev97 View Post
    Lane, You need to stop talking like you are some sorta veteran single speeder that has won a bunch of races because your not! What races have you won? What category? Bottom line is math, gear ratios, blah blah blah don't win real mountain bike races. Tactics, fitness, and ability do!
    Back on point, get a bunch of cogs, and chain rings, don't be afraid to change them around, find what you like riding, ride what gear twirls you beanie. After all the whole point of SS MTB is simplicity!
    Since you stalk me you should know what races ive won. For someone whos never met me you sure make a lot of comments on my posts. What races am i beating you at this year thats a better question. Im not sure what makes someone a veteran SS able to talk about gear ratios. Im at about 7k SS miles and counting. Riding a ss mtb in every situation across a wide range of gears. I guess actual riding experience doesn't count. Just pounding beers off my forehead and trolling people right? That makes you an expert. You better worry about training, skills, tactics then cause thats what matters. Wouldnt want to lose to some big mouth rookie

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  27. #27
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    Lane, No, I really don't know what races you have won, enlighten me. Not really sure what comments and what posts you are talking about. I am not concerned about you beating me, in fact I could care less. Good job on the 7k miles. I do pound beers but not off my forehead and I don't know what trolling is. I am no expert but I have been around the block on a bike with one gear a few times. Hope you win all your races this year if that's the sorta thing that tickles your fancy.

  28. #28
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    Hehehehe....I finally got my Renthal gold 32t chain ring. Wow, a night and day over my Surly 36t. I did 20 miles on my local XC trail. Lots of ups and owns. With tight turns followed by a somewhat steep incline. Not that technical. I didn't need to walk my bike up. There are sections I would normally hardly get my pedals over with the 36t x 18t. With the 32t chain ring, no problems. I could top out my speed around 13 mph on the trail if I want to. You can't go wrong with a 32t on the front and maybe 18t or 17t on the back...

  29. #29
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    A bigger gear may not be the most efficient for racing, but I like that it creates a greater sense of urgency. You must stay on top of that bigger gear, so you've got to ride faster, ride smarter, dig deeper anaerobically, and push your handling skills to the limit: like having to take that last turn before a steep climb faster than you should, knowing you need every ounce of speed to have a chance of clearing the climb. Basically - all those things that make SSing great to begin with, but moreso.

  30. #30
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    - as a wimpy, old man (if there are such things on a SS), I run about a 3:2 ratio.....32 oval - 21 is what I spin but I do have some hills to deal with and some of them have some wicked short climbs, notorious for tearing me a new one......
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  31. #31
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    i like to push the biggest gear i can manage and still make as many climbs as possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryder1 View Post
    like having to take that last turn before a steep climb faster than you should, knowing you need every ounce of speed to have a chance of clearing the climb.
    and that's when i end up face down in the dirt. for me the front tire breaks loose and disappears from under me faster with a rigid fork than with a sus fork. there's no warning, just dirt in your face with your hands still attached to the grips. ouch. the other one that catches me off guard is the uphill switchback (loose over hard). i pull up on the bars too hard and unweight the front wheel and it snaps out from under me
    and i'm on the ground before i know what hit me. that one usually hurts less though cause your going .2 mph.

    Quote Originally Posted by mr_chrome View Post
    - as a wimpy, old man (if there are such things on a SS), I run about a 3:2 ratio.....32 oval - 21 is what I spin but I do have some hills to deal with and some of them have some wicked short climbs, notorious for tearing me a new one......
    no worries. sounds like your still having fun, and maybe even enjoy the pain a little too.

    i occasionally ride with some older friends who say things like "I have no pride left, but i enjoy riding more now than ever!" they go their own pace and don't risk doing anything they don't think they can confidently manage. (if they hesitate, they stop and walk it.) i hope I'm still riding like them when i get there
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  32. #32
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    Mr Chrome, are you calling my preferred gear ratio "wimpy"?!?! Where's my safe space where nobody questions my choice of gear ratio? I'm gonna go cry now.

    Just kidding. But really, I've been running 32/21 on a 29er for a very long time and I never change it. It works for me anywhere there are actual hills or mountains to ride. Would probably gear harder if I rode somewhere flat. Call it wimpy if you want, but I'm not changing it.

  33. #33
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    To Lane...So your calling me a liar? Well I just checked my gears again and yep 32x16 and I can tell you for a fact according to my Garmin 510 at 18mph trying to keep my speed up I was at 125rpm yesterday on my ride I wasn't even engaging any type of forward propulsion it felt like I was pedaling air. I'm sure I looked like a Mexican jumping bean bobbing in the saddle. 125rpm is too fast for me period . I prefer 60-90 I try to train at 80 on my road bike. Also some things to consider I have a 26er with a round chain ring not a oval one and my tires are race king 2.0. that's quite a different set up than you have. By the way I have plenty of legs I hold my own just fine and I will just leave it at that.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaneDetroitCity View Post
    Alot of guys on here are flat out lying to you.

    You can train yourself to spin at any cadence. "Spinning out" doesnt start till about 165 rpm. These guys are saying they are spun out at 105. Thats cause they are out of shape or lazy or not willing to suffer.



    Sent from my SM-G360P using Tapatalk
    What if I don't want to train at that cadence. Next time your in Colorado I would love to show you how fat and out of shape I am lol.

  35. #35
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    exactly, not everyone aspires to stand atop the podium. in reality most riders will never even enter a race. a lot of guys are a little out of shape and unwilling to suffer, big deal. they're no more right or wrong than anyone else. maybe they don't have the time to max out their fitness.

    they just do what's fun for them. anyone who faults them for that should take a good look at their own priorities.

    just because you can hit a high max cadence doesn't mean you can sustain it. i consider spun out anything above what you can sustain.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbmike24 View Post
    What if I don't want to train at that cadence. Next time your in Colorado I would love to show you how fat and out of shape I am lol.
    Next time he's in CO, what you don't want to go to Detroit?

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    jball1125:

    I live in Ocala area and ride with a 32 chain ring. As far as cogs I switch between 18,20 and 22. Takes 5 minutes to switch out.

    If I'm at Santos it 18 or 20 but if I am going to Alafia or San Felasco with that powerline climb I put on the 22.

    I don't agree with those who "assume" that Florida is flat so start with an 18 cog.

    We may not be Colorado but we do have some climbing.

    In addition it really depends on your fitness level and I think blanket statements are unwise to say the least.

    I can be on a 32/22 and have somebody riding 32/16 pass me on a hill like I'm moving backward.

    Of course they may be 22 y/o 130 pounds and 5% body fat whereas I am pushing 63 am closer to 20% body fat and about 240.

    My suggestion is to pick up an inexpensive($30) Surly cog(s) and play around a bit.

    Curious where are you in central Florida??

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