Freewheel discussion- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    pants on head retarded
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    Freewheel discussion

    Just got my 44t chainring in and a freewheel for my Cross Check commuter. I'm not impressed at all with the Shimano MX30 freewheel - lots of stiction, grindy and loud. I've reduced the chain tension and let some oil drip into it, which makes it marginally better (still loud and grindy). S'pose it's too much to ask for a $15 freewheel :P

    So, now for opinions. What freewheels do you guys use and recommend? I see a lot of chatter about the White's Eno which must be good for $80... Has anybody used the ACS claws freewheels as another cheap alternative?

  2. #2
    Peace & Love
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    they all work...ACS are ok but yeah, ENOs are far superior in all regards and worth buying once you are certain on the gearing you want to settle on out back

  3. #3
    blog hogs
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    Agree.Eno's are the nicest freewheel Ive ever owned.All sealed and way more points of engagement.
    Ignore them till they go away.It's corporate policy.

  4. #4
    120
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    My acs was loud and grindy, even oil didn't help it.

  5. #5
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    eno and you'll have no worries
    stumpjumper 29 evo
    Jabberwocky
    Gt peace 9'r
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  6. #6
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    Eno.
    Roscoe's Chicken 'n Waffles

  7. #7
    achiever
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    ENO, no doubt. BIkeman usually has them for $69 or so

  8. #8
    MONKEYMAN
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    I've seen more than one do this:

    <object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/IgUaLgl20yA&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en_ US&feature=player_embedded&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/IgUaLgl20yA&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en_ US&feature=player_embedded&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

    My $20 ACS doesn't do this.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  9. #9
    achiever
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    My $20 ACS didn't do that either but neither does my $69 ENO. And my $20 ACS needed replacement within 2 months of offroad use. No seals on the ACS is no good for any kind of moisture rich environments.

  10. #10
    Bicycle Addict
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    Finger 51: What does it mean when the chain does that?

  11. #11
    blog hogs
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    It means the hub or the freewheel is out of round causing tight spots in the chain.I just tried it with mine and no bounce.
    Ignore them till they go away.It's corporate policy.

  12. #12
    120
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    I've seen more than one do this:


    My $20 ACS doesn't do this.
    My $20 ACS does do this. I'm thinking it might be an axle thing. At least in my case.

  13. #13
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    I've used both the Shimano and the ACS, and the ACS is quite a bit better. It has better engagement and is smoother than the Shimano, but it's louder.

    If I didn't regularly switch between 16, 18, and 20 tooth freewheels, I would probably pony up for the Eno.
    "Doing the right thing" is like water. It's good for all living things,and flows without thinking about where it's going.

  14. #14
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    Quote Originally Posted by blog hogs
    It means the hub or the freewheel is out of round causing tight spots in the chain.I just tried it with mine and no bounce.
    It could be a thread tolerance issue too. Just another reason to avoid cheap freewheels as they might damage the threading on your hub. Loose thread tolerances make it possible for the freewheel to tighen against the hub shell slightly off center.

  15. #15
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
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    yea, thread tollerance is a variable that may cause issues like this.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    yea, thread tollerance is a variable that may cause issues like this.
    Huh, I never knew this. Good information. Yet another reason to run an Eno from the start I guess.

  17. #17
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    In the video, if you look closely, you can see the entire freewheel moving up and down as the hub rotates. It's likely not the freewheel, but the hub instead.

  18. #18
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    Wow! Your eyes are way better than mine! I watched that video over and over, and while I could see the cog moving up and down (obviously since the chain was), it was very difficult to tell if the bearings and body of the freewheel were moving. The hand-held camera made distinguishing this even more difficult. Good eye on that one, I still don't see it.

    I would like to see a tripod mounted video of the freewheel with a reference mark on the dropout to really see what's going on. Also several freewheels should be tried to verify if this is a freewheel or a hub issue.

    Is this really a problem? Is this going to stop you from going on your next ride? What are the implications of this? shorter bearing life? How much?
    "Doing the right thing" is like water. It's good for all living things,and flows without thinking about where it's going.

  19. #19
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    there's probably at least a few thousandths of an inch clearance between the hub threads and freewheel threads. If the threads arent perfectly clean, it will not center itself on the threads, causing it to run out. It takes VERY little to cause slight tight and loose spots in the chain. If there are any dings on the threads, this will also throw it off quite a bit. Ideally, there should be a precise surface for the freewheel to locate on the hub instead of relying on the threads.
    As for it being a problem, i would say no unless you run your chain too tight.

  20. #20
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    Ideally, there should be a precise surface for the freewheel to locate on the hub instead of relying on the threads.
    Yep, notice on this Paul hub, the surface the freewheel tightens against is shaped to center it.


  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    Yep, notice on this Paul hub, the surface the freewheel tightens against is shaped to center it.

    all i see are threads and an undercut... The freewheel just butts up against a flat surface just like every other hub as far as i can tell. The shoulder and fillet are just part of the hub, they really dont interface with the freewheel.

  22. #22
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    It may be difficult to see since the photo is grainy, but I just built up a set of wheels with Paul hubs. There is an angular cut (I'd guess 82 degrees) to center the freewwheel on the hub shell. It wasn't faced 90 degrees perpendicular to the hub axle.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    It may be difficult to see since the photo is grainy, but I just built up a set of wheels with Paul hubs. There is an angular cut (I'd guess 82 degrees) to center the freewwheel on the hub shell. It wasn't faced 90 degrees perpendicular to the hub axle.
    ah ok i couldnt see that in the picture.

  24. #24
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    chances are its his shitty ring and crankset.
    get an eno, rebuild it once a year.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by LFASS
    chances are its his shitty ring and crankset.
    get an eno, rebuild it once a year.
    The shitty ring and crankset are stopped. It isn't them causing the problem.

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