flip/flop hubs & dropout length?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    flip/flop hubs & dropout length?

    Question for those of you running flip-flop hubs.

    How much variance in gearing can you get away with and still have enough room for adjustment in the dropouts w/o having to adjust the chain length?

    I've been commuting to work on my fixed-gear road bike geared 42x16. Problem is I do a Wednesday night mtn. bike ride that I can't make it to on time if I commute on the bike. I really hate to miss out on my wid-week dirt fix, but I hate driving to work if I don't have to. If I commuted on my ss mountain bike I could probably make it to the trailhead by the time he ride started, if I had a taller gear. I don't relish the idea of doing my 15 mi. road commute (+ an extra 5 after work to get to the ride start) on a SS geared for off-road riding. I'm considering building up a wheel with a flip flop hub that I could install a smaller fixed cog on and then just flip it over when I got to the trailhead, but I'm not sure that'd work.

    Question is can I get anywhere near an equivalent gear-inch to 42x16 w/ a 34t front ring and still have enough adjustment to flip it over and run 34x17 w/o adding/removing links in the chain?

    -Trevor

  2. #2
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    A 34x13 would be equivalent to your 42x16. If you want to also use a 34x17 then you need one-half inch of adjustability in your dropouts between the two positions. In other words from your current 34x17 position you need 1/2 inch of extra length for a 34x13 to work.

  3. #3
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    not likely...

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman
    A 34x13 would be equivalent to your 42x16. If you want to also use a 34x17 then you need one-half inch of adjustability in your dropouts between the two positions. In other words from your current 34x17 position you need 1/2 inch of extra length for a 34x13 to work.
    The axle is just past the midpoint now. Looks like there's probably not enough room to tension the smaller cog.

    If I could remove a link and still fit the 17t in there, w/o bottoming out on the droput, it might work.

    The other thing I hadn't thought about was pedal-strike. I'd hafta be real careful on corners riding fixed w/ 180mm cranks.

    Thanks for the info.

    -Trevor

  4. #4
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    take a full link out and throw a half-link in there and things might be easier

  5. #5
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    Measure twice - cut once

    Removing one link moves the axle forward 1/2 inch, adding a half-link moves it back 1/4 inch.
    (with a few mils of precision)

  6. #6
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    I did something very similar on my Crosscheck. I was using 42x16 (fixie) to ride around town, but I wanted to play on the dirt as well. With a 20T, I need to add one link, and it's really easy with a spare link and Powerlink. The wheel ends up in practically the same place.

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