First SingleSpeed ! New Recommendation to get started !- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916

    First SingleSpeed ! New Recommendation to get started !

    Ok I did a few things so far !

    The bike is a Rocky Mountain Hammer 1999 (19inch) (Bought it used a few years ago, never been used since 2003)

    It now weight 23lbs without a chain...

    Spec :

    Rocky Mountain Hammer 19inch
    Sugino Cranks 30t
    Some Ritchey Rims on XT Hubs and Unknow Spokes (The guy before was a top notch wheel builder, those wheel are really tought and light, and the front wheel have a crazy pattern !)
    Rockshoxx Quadro Fork (Blown, now completly locked)
    RockyMountain Handlebar,Seatpost,Stem
    IRC Mythos 1.95tire
    Xtr SAddle (Weird)
    Cantilever Brakes :s

    So far i did :
    Converted the rear wheel to singlespeed with old cassette spacer
    Removed both granny and big ring
    Sanded the cranks with 220 sandpaper and polished with brasso (not perfect but much better)
    total invested 0$


    I am planning to run it 30 x 16 to start...
    Do you have any recommendation how to make my own tensionner ?
    How do i know if my headset is threaded or not (regular)
    Any idea would be appreciated !!!!!!!!


    PICS PICS PICS
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Mtn Biker Machinist
    Reputation: 1 cog frog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1,049

    Good Start

    From the pics, your headset looks like the threadless variety. Easiest way to tell; if it has a bolt in the top, as well as a bolt or two holding the stem on the fork steerer tube it is threadless, if it only has a bolt in the top, it is threaded.

    Cheapest tensioner you can get is the old deraileur, bolt it back on and shorten up the chain until it runs around chainring and cog and through the deraileur cage. Then adjust the high low screws until it is centered on the rear cog. Make sure the cog and chainring line up, or the chain chain will try to jump off. There are a lot of links in the FAQ page that explain this with pictures, but those are the basics. Good luck and have fun!

  3. #3
    R I D E S T E E L
    Reputation: one1spede's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    646
    To eliminate a little extra friction, you can also remove the top wheel from the derailleur and just use the lower one. I've got one bike with that and it works well.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916
    Quote Originally Posted by 1 cog frog
    From the pics, your headset looks like the threadless variety. Easiest way to tell; if it has a bolt in the top, as well as a bolt or two holding the stem on the fork steerer tube it is threadless, if it only has a bolt in the top, it is threaded.

    Cheapest tensioner you can get is the old deraileur, bolt it back on and shorten up the chain until it runs around chainring and cog and through the deraileur cage. Then adjust the high low screws until it is centered on the rear cog. Make sure the cog and chainring line up, or the chain chain will try to jump off. There are a lot of links in the FAQ page that explain this with pictures, but those are the basics. Good luck and have fun!
    I converted an old Xt derailleur 1999 in to match the chainline... I just remplaced the ''high' screw with another one longer (1 inch) and it works well !

    Shorter chainring bolt and put the chain on it and try it ! I will post better pics also, the one i posted really ****.

    If there is a star nut (it have one) in the headset its because its threadless ? (I am a noob, never seen a threaded headset, its just because my father told me this one was threaded)

    I will need to adjust those cantilever brakes they are really bad, its incredible !
    What do you think about my front wheel

  5. #5
    just like a speeder-bike
    Reputation: Barkdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    329
    Quote Originally Posted by 1 cog frog
    Cheapest tensioner you can get is the old deraileur, bolt it back on and shorten up the chain until it runs around chainring and cog and through the deraileur cage. Then adjust the high low screws until it is centered on the rear cog.
    Just in case you don't have an old der. hanging around: ask your shop for one that they're going to toss/recycle...

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916
    Ok...

    Everything works really well
    30 x 16 seems perfect to me
    bike make no sounbd at all, perfect chainline (i can ear the tire on the rolling one the ground )

    I JUST HAVE A PROBLEM

    When i pedal hard uphill the just just kind of jump/ghost/skip (Almost killed myselft a few minutes ago) but it stay on the cog ,
    I puted an old chain on the bike maybe its the problem ? My Xt derailleur does'nt seems to be the problem, but the top pulley barely touch the chain, i will put an 11t pulley and i will see...

    Do you think its the pulley ?
    The chain ?
    or something is wrong with my chainline/setup ?

    I gonna try a bigger pulley and if it does'nt work i will post pics...

  7. #7
    Mtn Biker Machinist
    Reputation: 1 cog frog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1,049

    old parts

    If you are using an old chain, a rear cog from an old cassette, and an old chainring, that is likely your problem. Worn out stuff tends to skip really bad, but it may not derail. Get a non ramped ring and cog and a new chain, and that should solve the problem. I doubt it is the deraileur pulley causing the problem. Good Luck

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    161

    That chainring is toast...

    you can't tell from the photo. That's why your chain is skipping.

  9. #9
    R I D E S T E E L
    Reputation: one1spede's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    646
    I agree with 1 cog. You'll do best with single speed specific parts. Or, el cheapo that doesn't have shifting ramps, etc. Also, don't tension your chain as you would on a geared bike. Be sure the chain is much tighter so there is plenty of tension on the derailleur, or the chain can skip from that.

    As you said, it sounds like your chain came off the chain ring. I'd also recommend a new chain and chain ring. Be best to replace the cog too.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RiderInTraining's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    347
    Quote Originally Posted by Megaclocker
    I JUST HAVE A PROBLEM

    When i pedal hard uphill the just just kind of jump/ghost/skip (Almost killed myselft a few minutes ago) but it stay on the cog ,
    I puted an old chain on the bike maybe its the problem ? My Xt derailleur does'nt seems to be the problem, but the top pulley barely touch the chain, i will put an 11t pulley and i will see...
    Not enough tension on your chain is my guess. Get a singulator type chain tensioner, zip-tie it to your chain stay to adjust the tension and be happy.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FrontRanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,469
    I used to have that same fork on my old HooKooEKoo. You wouldn't happen to know the axle to crown measurement on that thing would you? Or would you mind measuring it for me? I am trying to figure out what fork to put on the bike and I no longer have the Quadra.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916
    Quote Originally Posted by FrontRanger
    I used to have that same fork on my old HooKooEKoo. You wouldn't happen to know the axle to crown measurement on that thing would you? Or would you mind measuring it for me? I am trying to figure out what fork to put on the bike and I no longer have the Quadra.
    I will measure it for you

    I tried the chain that was going with the 16t and it still skip...

    The chain have a lot of tension, and the derailleur is perfectly aligned and it can't move up and down...

    I guess i will just but a new rear cog (16t) How much does those thing cost ? And maybe a chain if it does'nt work with the old one... Its not from my front chainring i am 99% sure it comes from the back

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FrontRanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,469
    Quote Originally Posted by Megaclocker
    I will measure it for you

    I tried the chain that was going with the 16t and it still skip...

    The chain have a lot of tension, and the derailleur is perfectly aligned and it can't move up and down...

    I guess i will just but a new rear cog (16t) How much does those thing cost ? And maybe a chain if it does'nt work with the old one... Its not from my front chainring i am 99% sure it comes from the back

    New Shimano cogs are about 5 bucks. A new 8sp chain should be around $10-$15. Well worth it for a quite drivetrain.

    Thanks for measuring when you get a chance. It is impossible to find any info on the fork online.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916
    Quote Originally Posted by FrontRanger
    New Shimano cogs are about 5 bucks. A new 8sp chain should be around $10-$15. Well worth it for a quite drivetrain.

    Thanks for measuring when you get a chance. It is impossible to find any info on the fork online.
    425mm for the Quadra on my Rm Hammer...

    But if i would have the choice i would take something 450mm minimum on the hammer, going downhill is weird compared to my 120mm hardtail

    -----------

    I will post other pics of my setup with the homemade tensionner and everything tomorow, now i need to study :s exam tomorrow morning

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FrontRanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,469
    Quote Originally Posted by Megaclocker
    425mm for the Quadra on my Rm Hammer...

    But if i would have the choice i would take something 450mm minimum on the hammer, going downhill is weird compared to my 120mm hardtail

    -----------

    I will post other pics of my setup with the homemade tensionner and everything tomorow, now i need to study :s exam tomorrow morning
    Cool. Thanks for the info. I threw a surly 1X1 fork on there and it seems awfully steep(413mm). Supposedly corrected for an 80mm fork but that Quadra is a 60mm if I recall and it is taller than the 1X1. Bizarre.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by FrontRanger
    Cool. Thanks for the info. I threw a surly 1X1 fork on there and it seems awfully steep(413mm). Supposedly corrected for an 80mm fork but that Quadra is a 60mm if I recall and it is taller than the 1X1. Bizarre.
    Suspension forks build higher because of sag. For older frames a rigid fork should be about 400 mm long, for modern frames 420mm for an 80mm suspension frame geometry and 440mm for 100mm suspension. I hope this clarifies things for you.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    161
    you should probably get a new cog and a new ring. hyperglide cogs aren't the greatest for ss'ing and that ring is definitely worn. put the cranks at 3 and 9 o'clock, look at the teeth at the top and bottom of the ring. these are the teeth you're pushing on when you're in your power-stroke. your teeth look like ski jumps. you can get a good-quality, ramp-less ring at your LBS for 10-20 bucks. make sure to bring the old ring or just tell them its 94mm bolt circle.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FrontRanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,469
    Quote Originally Posted by George2
    Suspension forks build higher because of sag. For older frames a rigid fork should be about 400 mm long, for modern frames 420mm for an 80mm suspension frame geometry and 440mm for 100mm suspension. I hope this clarifies things for you.
    It does. I think the Judy I was running was a little taller and so it seemed weird at first. I will probably just run it for a while and see how it works.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.