Fifteen G single speed cranks- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Fifteen G single speed cranks

    Anyone tried these cranks yet? I saw them today for the first time and thought I would do a little homework before I buy something unknown.

  2. #2
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    I like the XTR conversions.

  3. #3
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    Just put a set on my recently completed SS build. Don't have a ride report to share yet, since I haven't had the bike out on the trails.

    But they look good.

    I just hope they perform as well as they look.
    08 Ibis Mojo SL
    09 Ibis Tranny SingleSpeed

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    I just call the company and spoke to someone directly. I was pleased to here what they had to say. The bottom bracket can be greased but the concept is that the BB is inexpensive so use it and replace when needed. They said that its a spec on the Ibis frames which I think is a nice bullet point. Anyone seen these for less than what Price point has it for, 200?

  5. #5
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    I have aset on my SS and love them, they are a great price and are pretty light, lighter than XT but heavier than XTR. Mine came in at 774g with all BB spacers and my Gates chainring and 4 Ti c-ring bolts. My c-ring is 98g so if you do the math you can find out what they would weigh with your ring.

    Installation was pretty painless, they do require you to install and remove a few timed during installation. The cups do have a unique spline but you can use a socket wrench (1 3/8" If I remember correctly) But I did buy the tool, and have also tested the bottle opener on the wrench as well.

    They feel very stiff but I am used to an older pair of Sweetwings that are very stiff. The Bearings are proprietary but the cups are pretty inexpensive and should hold up fairly well.

    I only have about 50 miles on them but no complaints yet. If I needed another pair of cranks i wouldn't hesitate a second to buy another set
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    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  6. #6
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    I have a buddy who has the Fifteen G's and he loves them. I am trying to decide between these and the White Industries ENO's...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooter916
    I have aset on my SS and love them, they are a great price and are pretty light, lighter than XT but heavier than XTR. Mine came in at 774g with all BB spacers and my Gates chainring and 4 Ti c-ring bolts. My c-ring is 98g so if you do the math you can find out what they would weigh with your ring.

    Installation was pretty painless, they do require you to install and remove a few timed during installation. The cups do have a unique spline but you can use a socket wrench (1 3/8" If I remember correctly) But I did buy the tool, and have also tested the bottle opener on the wrench as well.

    They feel very stiff but I am used to an older pair of Sweetwings that are very stiff. The Bearings are proprietary but the cups are pretty inexpensive and should hold up fairly well.

    I only have about 50 miles on them but no complaints yet. If I needed another pair of cranks i wouldn't hesitate a second to buy another set
    Im considering adopting a Gates Carbon Drive and using the Fifteen.G cranks to drive the system too but I cant decide whether I want to ditch my XTR960's that weigh 100 grams less.

    Ive calculated that a Gates drive would save me roughly 140g with 15G over my current drivetrain but if Shimano made their cranks in 104BCD I could save over 200 grams!

    Does the 666grams that 15G claim include BB and ring/bashguard?
    "Be the Gear..."

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Muz R-
    Im considering adopting a Gates Carbon Drive and using the Fifteen.G cranks to drive the system too but I cant decide whether I want to ditch my XTR960's that weigh 100 grams less.

    Ive calculated that a Gates drive would save me roughly 140g with 15G over my current drivetrain but if Shimano made their cranks in 104BCD I could save over 200 grams!

    Does the 666grams that 15G claim include BB and ring/bashguard?
    well the belt drive won't work with the M960 cranks. I am trying to remember the weights, If I remember correctly the BB with all spacers/shims and wave washer was 98g, my whole system was 774g and I believe the cranks with ring and guard were within a few grams of the claimed 666g

    The new XTR M970 are 104bcd and would work with Gates.
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  9. #9
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    Scooter,

    I have become fond of my 960's as I spent 5 hours cutting them down, dremmelling them and polishing them up, its just a shame I cant encorporate the gates ring with them :-(

    I saw another thread on your bike earlier too, you must be real pleased with the way it turned out, it looks awesome in the pics. Ive got 3 weeks before my Blacksheep frame arrives so I have a little time up my sleeve to decide on whether to go down the Gates Carbon Drive path. So tell me...would you recommend it? My new frame has horizontal adjustable chain stays so I can slip the belt in through there apparently. The weight savings and silent nature appeals the most to me.
    "Be the Gear..."

  10. #10
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    Rode the Fifteen G cranks for the first time today. Put 18 miles on them and I'm happy with my decision to put them on the SS.

    They felt stiffer than the XTRs on my full suspension geared bike. Of course, the way to validate that would be to remove the XTRs and make the Fifteen Gs a triple and put them on and go ride. Might do that one day.
    08 Ibis Mojo SL
    09 Ibis Tranny SingleSpeed

  11. #11
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    -Muz-R-

    The blacksheep adjustable stays look like they should work but you need to make sure you have about 5-6mm of room to squeeze the belt through.

    If you are patient, work on your own bikes and hardly ever change your gearing I would recommend the belt drive. If you change your gearing all the time it will get very expensive. The Gates system is not cheap!!! chainline is very important and you need to have some clearance where the ring meets the stay.

    set up and understanding the system takes some time the first time, and the tension is important. I bought the tension gauge and glad I did, I was thinking I need higher tension than I do.

    the best be is to call Frank at Gates and spend a few min on the phone with him, he is pretty straight forward and will answer any question yo may have
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooter916
    -Muz-R-

    The blacksheep adjustable stays look like they should work but you need to make sure you have about 5-6mm of room to squeeze the belt through.

    If you are patient, work on your own bikes and hardly ever change your gearing I would recommend the belt drive. If you change your gearing all the time it will get very expensive. The Gates system is not cheap!!! chainline is very important and you need to have some clearance where the ring meets the stay.

    set up and understanding the system takes some time the first time, and the tension is important. I bought the tension gauge and glad I did, I was thinking I need higher tension than I do.

    the best be is to call Frank at Gates and spend a few min on the phone with him, he is pretty straight forward and will answer any question yo may have

    Scooter,

    Thanks for the helpful tips, I appreciate your feedback and experience with the system. My LBS took the liberty of chatting with James at Blacksheep for me regarding the HACS chainstays and the Gates compatibility, according to James it will not be a problem so Im trusting his judgement until I get the chance to play around with it myself. I pretty much run a 32-20T chain drive on my local trails so Im hoping to get a 39-24 Gates combo which will be lighter and give better chainstay clearance. The 39-24 should result in about 47 gear inches which is only half an inch more than my current set up.

    James has another Gates drive he's ordering at the minute so Im hoping he'll get all the niches sorted out before I get mine.

    I guess this is something you should know the answer too....Do the Gates rings and cogs offer the same gear inches as standard rings and cogs? For example, would a Gates 39-24T give the same gearing as a 39T ring and 24T standard cog?? Im finding the Gates charts a little confusing. Im guessing that James will calculate with Gates what length belt I will need too.

    Also, would you recommend I get a bolt on rear skewer? My only other concern is whether the Ti frame will flex and derail the belt but James assures it wont be a problem.

    I still cant decide on the 15G cranks as it means I have to replace my brandnew BB and it will be the only part on my bike thats black but other than that that look and seem perfect for the money.
    "Be the Gear..."

  13. #13
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    -Muz R-
    as far gear inches I'm not 100% sure. I do know that you find the gear ratio the same, I am running a 50x25 and is a 2:1 on my 26 rear wheel. as far as gear inches I'm not really sure.

    what hubs are you using? I have Industry Nine wheels and opted for the DT-Swiss RWS thru-bolt QR front and rear for peace of mind and tool less wheel removal. If you use a standard QR I would suggest something strong (XTR, Salsa, Crank bro Split etc). bolt on would be ideal but if your racing all the time a QR is a smarter choice.

    i originally planned on having my frame built with BB30 and the Specialized FACT carbon cranks but after a few set backs the builder and I decided to go standard and I got the 15G's, haven't regretted the decision since

    as far as frame flex and derailment, it would need to flex and stay flexed in order to get the belt to ride off. Frank also showed me a new extra guide plate at interbike for the rear cog that will help with derailment. it can allow up to 3mm off line and still retain the belt. I will be getting one in the next week or so and will post pictures once it is installed
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  14. #14
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    Zacharoo-- Sorry about all the off topic discussion of the belt drive.

    The cranks are awesome and you should buy them ASAP
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  15. #15
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    Scooter,

    I have Industry 9's too so I will consider that option also.

    Interested to see that anti derailment device, didnt think it would be long before they developed something like this. This will certainly solve the concerns that some have for this system.
    "Be the Gear..."

  16. #16
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    I have a set of the 15G's on one of my bikes. Have had them for most of this season, so there's a couple hundred miles on them.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/48107563@N00/3732943801/" title="15G single speed cranks by unclefuzzy_ss, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3511/3732943801_5e520bcfdc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="15G single speed cranks" /></a>

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/48107563@N00/3732941795/" title="Tri lobe mount interface. by unclefuzzy_ss, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3473/3732941795_2fa67a7a09_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Tri lobe mount interface. " /></a>

    Previous cranks I've had on this bike are the Surly Mr. Whirly and XTR M950. These are waaaaay lighter than the Surly's. Probably about the same as the XTR's. But, the wieght part doesn't really matter to me, as I'm well north of the 200lb zone. I'm looking for stiffness, and the 15G's have that in spades.

    This far, I like everything about them except for the finish. I'm getting some heel rub off already. Minor thing, but if the cranks were silver I wouldn't complain, plus they'd match my bike better.

    If you're thinking about 'em, buy 'em. They're good.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~martini~
    I have a set of the 15G's on one of my bikes. Have had them for most of this season, so there's a couple hundred miles on them.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/48107563@N00/3732943801/" title="15G single speed cranks by unclefuzzy_ss, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3511/3732943801_5e520bcfdc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="15G single speed cranks" /></a>

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/48107563@N00/3732941795/" title="Tri lobe mount interface. by unclefuzzy_ss, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3473/3732941795_2fa67a7a09_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Tri lobe mount interface. " /></a>

    Previous cranks I've had on this bike are the Surly Mr. Whirly and XTR M950. These are waaaaay lighter than the Surly's. Probably about the same as the XTR's. But, the wieght part doesn't really matter to me, as I'm well north of the 200lb zone. I'm looking for stiffness, and the 15G's have that in spades.

    This far, I like everything about them except for the finish. I'm getting some heel rub off already. Minor thing, but if the cranks were silver I wouldn't complain, plus they'd match my bike better.

    If you're thinking about 'em, buy 'em. They're good.
    Your right about the weight, the 15G's are only 100grams heavier than my XTR960's so if they are stiff it wont matter too much.

    Im mainly concerned about changing my other stuff to accomodate the BB etc and like you, the black colour doesnt match anything else on my bike. Other than that, they look super cool!
    "Be the Gear..."

  18. #18
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    Just ordered a set this morning!

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    I ordered one last week, should be here soon! Pics when I get 'em on . . .

  20. #20
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    Anyone try these with a Niner EBB? I have a set that are going to go on a SIR9 soon, and I'm concerned that the bearing cups are a little bigger than a Shimano cup and may have some interference issues with the EBB.

  21. #21
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    I have a set of older RaceFace Evolve cranks with a SS chainring on my El Toro. Any comments on how the 15G's might be an improvement in stiffness and weight reduction?

  22. #22
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    anyone know how these cranks would run in a 1x10 set-up? or have a recommendation as to what would work well in a 1x set up?
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  23. #23
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    anyone know how these cranks would run in a 1x10 set-up? or have a recommendation as to what would work well in a 1x set up?
    Im sure they would. I just installed a set on my jib jab and im sure they would work fine with a 104bcd 10speed ring.
    I have never tried so maybe someone else will chime in.

    Sheepo
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  24. #24
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    I agree with Sheepo. They should work fine with a 10-speed ring.

  25. #25
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    i posted this about 1 week ago in the weight weenies forum, but i added a few things for this thread;

    i have the hive/e-13 xc ss crankset on my 1x10 29er hardtail and ss.

    i am running the e-13 xc ss cranks and a 34t rotor ss ring, a e-13 xcx bb mounted guide and the 12/36t xx cassette and 10sp chain on the geared bike. the ss has the original hive cranks, a 33t rotor ring and a niner cog and 8sp chain.

    the e-13 ss xc crankset slightly softer machining on them....the are shoes friendly. the hive cranks have some pretty awesome machining that has sharp edges...it can take chunks off your shoes.

    the e13 crankset is the way to go....good for the $, big ass serviceable bearings (bearings are the same size as bb30) and a huge 30mm spindle for excellent stiffness. they stay tight and are quiet.

    i had the hive crank on my ss and bought a used set of xtr m975 for the 1x10 bike. after one ride, i felt the xtr crank was a down grade...sold it on ebay and bought another set of e13/hive cranks...

    i've got a new frame coming soon, it has a pf30 bb....hive is working on that right now and i will be running the e13 crank/pf30 bb and xcx st guide on that frame....it is a bomb ass set up....stiff, light, reliable and just as light at the xtr m975 and way cheaper. it is a no brainer for me, this set up has worked REALLY well for me and i have a ton of tough miles on it.

    kcnc cranks....i have met a few people out here running them. i am 6'1" and 165 and they tell me to stay away from them...flexy as hell is what they say. i have never actually ridin' them though.

    weight....i think the e13/hive 3 ring xc set up is about 30 grams heavier than the xtr m975 crankset....and i think all that weight might be in the rings....the xtr and hive/e13 crankarms and bb within 10 grams of each other, if i recall correctly.


    so, in they are great for 1x10!!! i think any 9sp chain will work well....i have not tired 1x10 with the stock chainring that came with the hive cranks. the e13xc ss cranks some with the bb and tool....NO ring, but are also priced cheaper as well...
    "forget kings...forget hadleys......they all have crap engagement. just run your bike fixed gear." - FoShizzle

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kam
    i posted this about 1 week ago in the weight weenies forum, but i added a few things for this thread;

    i have the hive/e-13 xc ss crankset on my 1x10 29er hardtail and ss.

    i am running the e-13 xc ss cranks and a 34t rotor ss ring, a e-13 xcx bb mounted guide and the 12/36t xx cassette and 10sp chain on the geared bike. the ss has the original hive cranks, a 33t rotor ring and a niner cog and 8sp chain.

    the e-13 ss xc crankset slightly softer machining on them....the are shoes friendly. the hive cranks have some pretty awesome machining that has sharp edges...it can take chunks off your shoes.

    the e13 crankset is the way to go....good for the $, big ass serviceable bearings (bearings are the same size as bb30) and a huge 30mm spindle for excellent stiffness. they stay tight and are quiet.

    i had the hive crank on my ss and bought a used set of xtr m975 for the 1x10 bike. after one ride, i felt the xtr crank was a down grade...sold it on ebay and bought another set of e13/hive cranks...

    i've got a new frame coming soon, it has a pf30 bb....hive is working on that right now and i will be running the e13 crank/pf30 bb and xcx st guide on that frame....it is a bomb ass set up....stiff, light, reliable and just as light at the xtr m975 and way cheaper. it is a no brainer for me, this set up has worked REALLY well for me and i have a ton of tough miles on it.

    kcnc cranks....i have met a few people out here running them. i am 6'1" and 165 and they tell me to stay away from them...flexy as hell is what they say. i have never actually ridin' them though.

    weight....i think the e13/hive 3 ring xc set up is about 30 grams heavier than the xtr m975 crankset....and i think all that weight might be in the rings....the xtr and hive/e13 crankarms and bb within 10 grams of each other, if i recall correctly.


    so, in they are great for 1x10!!! i think any 9sp chain will work well....i have not tired 1x10 with the stock chainring that came with the hive cranks. the e13xc ss cranks some with the bb and tool....NO ring, but are also priced cheaper as well...
    photos?

  27. #27
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    https://www.e13components.com/2010/1...available.html
    Have not seen this piece of equipment from them. Looks promising, just wondering on price?

    I really looked hard at getting the Fifteen.G cranks but in the end decided on XT due to BB options.
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  28. #28
    Kam
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    the xcx st is pricey, roughly $100.

    pics....well, i've got pics of the 1x10 bike....but this is the ss forum

    i will work on pics of the ss.
    "forget kings...forget hadleys......they all have crap engagement. just run your bike fixed gear." - FoShizzle

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kam
    the xcx st is pricey, roughly $100.

    pics....well, i've got pics of the 1x10 bike....but this is the ss forum

    i will work on pics of the ss.
    Why did you feel the XTR was a downgrade?

  30. #30
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    I hate to drag this back up, but when you purchased these, did the packaging include the bottom bracket? I just ordered a set, but the box lacked the cups and the installation tool. Is this normal?

  31. #31
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    Mine came with cups and the tool
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    Great. I will get on the horn with them tomorrow. Thanks for the quick reply!

  33. #33
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    I thought you guys might find this interesting.

    The hive recommends replacing the whole BB when the bearings die. But the bearings that the BB takes are simply pressed BB30 bearings. So instead of replacing the whole bb and throwing away the cups, you can simply knock out both of the old bearings and press in new BB30 bearings.

    I did this and it went together pretty quick and easy. (plus I felt better about not being such a wasteful american/human/earthling)

    I used this park headset removal tool to knock out the old ones.


    The bearings dont have much of a lip for the tool to grab on to. If you try to simply knock them out the tool will lose hold and come through the other side of the BB without removing the bearing.


    I fixed that by using a conventional pair of plyers stuck in through the other side of the BB to create a wedge, pressing the arms of the tool against the usable lip of the bearings.

    Viola, after a couple "i hope i dont break anything" smacks with a rubber mallet the bearing gently popped out.

    To add new bearings I cleaned the cups. There was a hard adhesive/epoxy like stuff in the grooves of the cups(where the bearings sit) So i just removed it with a knife. Its breaks off pretty easy.

    Re greased the cups and used a headset press to push in the new bearings.



    This ^^^ is similar to mine.

    I actually used the old bearing to press in the new bearing because it was the perfect size to push the new bearing into the cup, and it doesnt put any stress on the bearing at improper places.

    Then the other side.

    Reinstall crank.

    Boom you are done. 20 min job that took me about 45mins(cuz I am anal about my bike)


    Hope this writeup convinces someone to replace only their worn out bearings instead of replacing the cups as well. Think about how many e*thirteen BB cups can be saved from landfills!


    Peace and grease!
    Sheepo
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