eno freewheel questions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    eno freewheel questions

    are they worth the extra $$$
    also, changing the freewheel on my ENO eccentric hub is always a nuckle busting *****. would a thin spacer help? any tips?
    thanks

  2. #2
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    they sure are!
    show us pictures of the ENO hub on your frame...

  3. #3
    holding back the darkness
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    Yes. They are worth the extra money. They are the best. There are currently no other freewheels that exceed them in quality.

  4. #4
    Duckin' Fonuts.
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    Yes they are worth it. They are a bargain when paired with Surly or Phil hubs when compared KIngs, Hope, Dt etc. They function just as well.

    Remove the stainless axle end and then remove the freewheel.

  5. #5
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    picture on the frame??.....not sure why. now your making me work......picture this - cannondale F29'er with black eno disc hub. speaking of picture's, ernesto's rocks, brings back sweet memories of the old days.
    so is there an easy way to remove? tell me your tricks boys and girls

  6. #6
    MONKEYMAN
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    Quote Originally Posted by markgoldsmith
    so is there an easy way to remove? tell me your tricks boys and girls
    For me it took a very large, heavy vice and every ounce of strength in me (admittedly not a lot @ 156 pounds)

    I think I might be an anomaly with regard to the fan club- don't get me wrong, I like mine but I don't think the quality in machining is the super duper people espouse.
    (also consider I've only owned one)

    When I flip my bike over and give the wheel a couple of cranks up to speed, I can actually see the chain tense and un-tense by a few mm. Leads me to suspect the freewheel isn't completely round. Possibly a bad batch ?

    My $20 ACS doesn't do this.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  7. #7
    achiever
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    I went through an ACS Claws in a little more than a month. No seals = no good in the wetness that is New England.

    No problems with the ENO in the 4 months of winter slop I've been riding in.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    For me it took a very large, heavy vice and every ounce of strength in me (admittedly not a lot @ 156 pounds)

    I think I might be an anomaly with regard to the fan club- don't get me wrong, I like mine but I don't think the quality in machining is the super duper people espouse.
    (also consider I've only owned one)

    When I flip my bike over and give the wheel a couple of cranks up to speed, I can actually see the chain tense and un-tense by a few mm. Leads me to suspect the freewheel isn't completely round. Possibly a bad batch ?

    My $20 ACS doesn't do this.
    Ah! I missread the first post. You got to remove the freewheel by using the proper tool. I'll snap some pics tomorrow on how I do it on mine.

    Tight vs tense = not all chainrings are made perfectly round - all my bikes do that.

  9. #9
    MONKEYMAN
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    Quote Originally Posted by ernesto_from_Wisconsin
    Tight vs tense = not all chainrings are made perfectly round - all my bikes do that.
    but the chainring and crank aren't turning during this test- after I spin up the back wheel, I hold the crank arm (essentially coasting). While the back wheel is spinning I can see the chain tighten and un-tighten- which to me means the freewheel isn't centered to the hub. I'll try to make a video to show you what I mean. check back mañana
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  10. #10
    Falls off a lot
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    Worth every penny, I went through 2 ACS freewheels in one UK winter, bought an ENO 2½ years ago and never had a problem. A large smear of copperslip on the threads before you put it on the hub helps when you come to remove it.

    To remove it from the ENO hub, I remove the 6mm bolt and axle, put the freewheel tool in the vice and rotate the wheel around the vice, using the wheel as the lever. Sometimes helps if you bolt the freewheel tool to the hub with another 6mm bolt and a few washers, remember to keep loosening the bolt as the hub comes off.

  11. #11
    MONKEYMAN
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    okay. here we go:
    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/IgUaLgl20yA&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/IgUaLgl20yA&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  12. #12
    one chain loop
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    its either hub body is bent or freewheel body is out of round.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  13. #13
    MONKEYMAN
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek
    its either hub body is bent or freewheel body is out of round.
    I don't think it's the hub -- When I put the cheapo ACS claw on this doesn't happen. Also when the FW was on my ENO hub it would do the same thing.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  14. #14
    one chain loop
    Reputation: fishcreek's Avatar
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    then its clearly a WI freewheel flaw.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  15. #15
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    Absolutely worth it....my surly 1x1 sounded horrible with an acs claws.....with the eno its like butter. I absolutely love it and would recommend it to anyone. Get one.
    Cannondale Caffeine 2 29er
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  16. #16
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    We the people ...

    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    okay. here we go:
    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/IgUaLgl20yA&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/IgUaLgl20yA&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
    If the tooth count on that freewheel is 18-20, I'll gladly trade you my 20t ACS straight up. I'll even pay the shipping each way.

  17. #17
    120
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    I don't think it's the hub -- When I put the cheapo ACS claw on this doesn't happen. Also when the FW was on my ENO hub it would do the same thing.
    My ACS DOES do this, so did a Shimano. I have this problem on all of my bikes, two of which have cassette bodies. I was hoping an ENO would be the fix....

  18. #18
    nothing to see here
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    Admittedly it is not the most desireable aspect of freewheels, but the eccentricity shown in that particular freewheel is not likely to give any problems.

    edit: FWIW, my old ACS was much worse than that.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  19. #19
    MONKEYMAN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevob
    Admittedly it is not the most desireable aspect of freewheels, but the eccentricity shown in that particular freewheel is not likely to give any problems.
    I totally agree, and you're right- it hasn't presented much of a problem at all.

    My point in posting is that the reputation and price these FW's have suggests a very high level of quality. I wouldn't expect to see a flaw like this in a FW that retails for $80-$90.

    OP asked if "They're worth it"- I shared my experience. I'll buy another one sometime in the future but if it's got the same problem it will be my last.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  20. #20
    nothing to see here
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    I totally agree, and you're right- it hasn't presented much of a problem at all.

    My point in posting is that the reputation and price these FW's have suggests a very high level of quality. I wouldn't expect to see a flaw like this in a FW that retails for $80-$90.

    OP asked if "They're worth it"- I shared my experience. I'll buy another one sometime in the future but if it's got the same problem it will be my last.
    Good point regarding the quality expected for the price, and I agree 100%. The WI trials freewheel/Phil Wood/ENO/Paul hub combo is on my list of upgrades when my current hub gives up the game. I'd be majorly p!ssed if it had a similar problem, as I've been fighting driveline eccentricity for freakin' years. It's my biggest dislike about single speeding.

    I've currently got a Kona Unit with a wobbly freehub, and a crankset/chainring which is impossible to get properly round. I might also have to upgrade the crankset to a spiderless one like the WI ENO Crankset. $$$$$$$$$$$
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  21. #21
    Turn off the TV
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    They sure have a lot of drag. If you buy the tool to remove the freewheel it works great, $40.

  22. #22
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    Grease the threads before putting the freewheel on. Loosely bolt your freewheel removal tool to the freewheel, then tighten the tool into a vise. Hold the rim and it works as a large torque lever to break the freewheel free.

    My old boss who used to road race in the 70s always told me to bend a spoke and put that around the innermost thread, then to thread on the freewheel. He said that extra 1mm keeps the freewheel from locking onto the hub and made it easier for them to remove their 5-6spd freewheels when they'd change gearing every race.

  23. #23
    one chain, two sprockets
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    I would never recommend anything between the freewheel and hub - except anti-seize paste!

    SS will really crank the FW in place. I put the FW tool on, back it up with hand-snugged axle nut, then a socket on a breakerbar with a 4-foot cheater pipe. Anything less and I don't even try to remove mine...

    Tom P.

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