Eccentric BB's and SS conversion questions.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    beer *****es n' bikes
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    Eccentric BB's and SS conversion questions.

    I have decided to build my Kona into a singlespeed with one requirement... NO TENSIONERS! I was thinking of using an ecc BB, but I can't find much info on them. Does the ecc BB have a larger shell and require an oversize BB? My current BB is 68x113. Any other tensionerless options I should consider? Probably going to run 38x16 or so.

    What crankset is recommended? Anyone think I would have a clearance issue with 180's? I don't like bangin my cranks on the rocks all the time.

    Also, for wheelsets I am looking at something durable yet reasonably light. I do 80% XC w/ some light urban/freeride type stuff, and the rigid fork is hard on the wheels. Most likely will run V's for now... not too excited about disc brakes here.

    Anyways look forward to your input and advice. I will probably be thumbing through QBP tomorrow writing down part No. on this weeks order list
    bike dude, velocity employee (this is my personal account)

  2. #2
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    ENO is a possibilty

    Have you looked at the ENO? it's an eccentric hub from White Industries. Keeps my bikes as happy as a gnome in heat...

    Check this out:


    http://www.adventurefind.com/hbfk/eno1.html

  3. #3
    beer *****es n' bikes
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    Quote Originally Posted by ernesto_from_Wisconsin
    Have you looked at the ENO? it's an eccentric hub from White Industries. Keeps my bikes as happy as a gnome in heat...

    Check this out:


    http://www.adventurefind.com/hbfk/eno1.html
    I have but they are really expensive (for me at least) and I can't order it through QBP so that means I have to have the cash upfront. Good thought though... the ecc BB looks like a lot of work so I guess thats out too.
    bike dude, velocity employee (this is my personal account)

  4. #4
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely
    ...the ecc BB looks like a lot of work so I guess thats out too.
    Yup, "...a lot of work..." means replacing the BB shell of the frame. A job for a frame builder.
    The ENO hub is the easiest way to go SS without a tensioner. You might be lucky and be able to find a gear combo that does not need a tensioner but you have to live with that gear and it may not work well as the chain wears in and loosens.

    You could also have a builder replace your dropout with track tips.

    Is your shop a Kona dealer? Get a Unit frame. Or a Surly.

    For all the other parts, use what you have. They will work fine.

    Finally, read the SS FAQ.
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  5. #5
    beer *****es n' bikes
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy©®™
    Yup, "...a lot of work..." means replacing the BB shell of the frame. A job for a frame builder.
    The ENO hub is the easiest way to go SS without a tensioner. You might be lucky and be able to find a gear combo that does not need a tensioner but you have to live with that gear and it may not work well as the chain wears in and loosens.

    You could also have a builder replace your dropout with track tips.

    Is your shop a Kona dealer? Get a Unit frame. Or a Surly.

    For all the other parts, use what you have. They will work fine.

    Finally, read the SS FAQ.
    Thanks Shiggy... Unfortunately we are no longer a Kona dealer, otherwise I would DEFINATELY be getting a Unit. The Surly is an option but I would hate to waste a frame I really enjoy riding, and pay the $236 for the Surly when I could make this frame work potentially. I may play with some ratios and see what works. I would definately go the track dropout route, but with the aluminum frame its hard to find anyone who can competently weld them. Maybe I'll just go with the Surly since I really can't find any reasonably price ENOcentric rear wheels.

    Thanks
    bike dude, velocity employee (this is my personal account)

  6. #6
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    If you want a cheap tensionerless conversion, try <a href="http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=2005">this</a>. It gives you 4~5mm of adjustment, and if it turns out you don't like it, it cost you ~$10. Look <a href="http://www.peak.org/~fixin/fixmeup.html">here</a> for chainring combinations that will work, but with 4mm of adjustment, you can usually get something close to what you want. Kona's of old had ~425mm chainstays, currnet ones have ~424mm. You should be able to run 36:18 or 38:20, and maybe even 32:18, depending on your chainstay.

    Run whatever crank you "like".

    Cheers,

    Tom

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: adamlivi's Avatar
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    and ...

    look here for a spicer 1/2 link to get that "oh so almost ratio" just right ...

    click here to see spicer 1/2 link

    Bully good!

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