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Thread: Dual-SS setups

  1. #1
    hands up who wants to die
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    Dual-SS setups

    Hi there. I'm thinking of converting my gearie XC bike to a dual-SS, with a "commute to trails" gear and a trail-riding gear, with a manual-shift at the trailhead. (I no longer own a car.)

    I'm thinking of 34/18 and 36/16.

    Anyone else running this type of set-up? Pics?

    thanks!
    -robinny

  2. #2
    markybrue
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    Dingle-Speed

    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    Hi there. I'm thinking of converting my gearie XC bike to a dual-SS, with a "commute to trails" gear and a trail-riding gear, with a manual-shift at the trailhead. (I no longer own a car.)

    I'm thinking of 34/18 and 36/16.

    Anyone else running this type of set-up? Pics?

    thanks!
    -robinny
    I have converted my cross bike to this set-up. I run an 18t freewheel and have a 39/52 chainring. I use a ft deraileur and a Paul Comp. Melvin. The Melvin alows for a 20t difference in the front. I have had zero problems with this set-up. It looks simple and performs well.

    I will Post pics later

  3. #3
    34N 118W
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    if ErNestO would spend less time watching Lifetime and more time putting photos on the White Ind. website you could see pics of the Double-Double setup. A 2-spd freewheel and cranks w/2 chainrings. That is, if you want to go "all out".

    http://www.whiteind.com/ENO_web/freewheel2.html

    Spoiler: Ernesto, the family's daughter finally comes back home and they all hug and cry. Now get to work.

    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    Hi there. I'm thinking of converting my gearie XC bike to a dual-SS, with a "commute to trails" gear and a trail-riding gear, with a manual-shift at the trailhead. (I no longer own a car.)

    I'm thinking of 34/18 and 36/16.

    Anyone else running this type of set-up? Pics?

    thanks!
    -robinny

  4. #4
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    I run a "2 speed" set up, since i have to ride to the trails, and I ride a variety of trails.
    I have tried variations on the 3 basic formats:

    2 rings, 1 cog and a rear derailleur as a tensioner. Example 36:18 and 32:18. Easy and quick to switch by hand.

    2 rings and 2 cogs. Can use a derailleur as a tensioner or you might find a pairing that allows you to run without a tensioner,. in which case the total teeth count has to be the same. Example 34:20 and 36:18 (54 tooth count. In this case you have to loosen the rear wheel to get enough slack to change from one gear to the other) The primary advantage is a straight chain line in either gear and , with a tensioner, the widest variety of choice in cogs and rings.

    1 ring and 2 cogs and a derailleur as a tensioner. You set the derailleur up to switch from one cog to the other. You can do this using an old thumb shifter since the derailleur is already there, or you can do it using the barrel adjuster on the derailleur. To do this you need a short peice of shifter cable with the head on one end. First set the limit screws on the derailleur so that the derailleur is centred on the smaller cog. Insert the cable into the barrel adjuster so that the head end is inthe the barrel adjuster, and clamp the other end into the clamp on the derailleur. Turning the barrel will move the derailleur between the 2 cogs.

    My current format is 1 ring & 2cogs 34:17 and 34:20 and a rock ring, with a road derailleur as a tensioner. I switch from one gear to the other using the barrel adjust method. So basically I have to chose which SS I am riding according to the overall terrain:
    34:17=52 gear inches - for rolling country and the road
    34:20=44 gear inches - for hilly terrian

    I decided against the thumb shifter because I wanted to avoid the temptation to shift gears during a ride. And I wanted a rock ring, so it had to be 1 ring and 2 cogs.
    Last edited by hu-man; 02-22-2005 at 12:20 PM.

  5. #5
    bicyclist
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    Hi there. I'm thinking of converting my gearie XC bike to a dual-SS, with a "commute to trails" gear and a trail-riding gear, with a manual-shift at the trailhead. (I no longer own a car.)

    I'm thinking of 34/18 and 36/16.

    Anyone else running this type of set-up? Pics?

    thanks!
    -robinny
    yes yes yes! i was thinking about doing the same thing, except with a 34:15 (my current gearing) and a 32:17 alongside. i probably will once i get me a new crankset (after i get a new bike) that can run two rings within two teeth of each other, as i can't [bla bla bla] run a smaller ring in the outer position or a bigger ring in the middle position to get clos enough ring sizes, which would prevent me from having logical gearing...
    People who really know what happened aren't talking. And the people who don't have a clue, you can't shut them up.
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  6. #6
    hands up who wants to die
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    thanks for the ideas guys. I like bash guards too, so I will need to ponder exactly how I should get this gearing. I wonder how large of a chainring I could fit in the granny position (64bcd).

    -RobInNY

  7. #7
    bicyclist
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    thanks for the ideas guys. I like bash guards too, so I will need to ponder exactly how I should get this gearing. I wonder how large of a chainring I could fit in the granny position (64bcd).

    -RobInNY
    i don't think that you can go very big.... you may have to eschew the bashguard...
    People who really know what happened aren't talking. And the people who don't have a clue, you can't shut them up.
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  8. #8
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    I've been running the double parrallel SS set up for over two years now.
    I've loved it so much that I was trying to get my cogs made from 7mm stock so you wouldn't need a spacer between the two...but we couldn't find metric for a reasonable price.

    The combo you mention will work great as long as you dont mind roughly .03" chainstay length differance between the two. The formula of adding the teeth is always close enough that you don't have to mess with brake adjustments, but you will have to move your wheel a smidgen.

    I've been hype on using the inner ring because the inner ring is the most efficient due to reduced frame flex.
    There are some tooth count limitations as of now, but I'm happy to have found a 28t 64.
    -Marshall Hance
    EndlessBikeCo.

  9. #9
    bicyclist
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sideways
    I've been running the double parrallel SS set up for over two years now.
    I've loved it so much that I was trying to get my cogs made from 7mm stock so you wouldn't need a spacer between the two...but we couldn't find metric for a reasonable price.

    The combo you mention will work great as long as you dont mind roughly .03" chainstay length differance between the two. The formula of adding the teeth is always close enough that you don't have to mess with brake adjustments, but you will have to move your wheel a smidgen.

    I've been hype on using the inner ring because the inner ring is the most efficient due to reduced frame flex.
    There are some tooth count limitations as of now, but I'm happy to have found a 28t 64.
    28t 64? (!!!!!!!!!!!) cool
    People who really know what happened aren't talking. And the people who don't have a clue, you can't shut them up.
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  10. #10
    No Justice = No Peace
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    Hi there. I'm thinking of converting my gearie XC bike to a dual-SS, with a "commute to trails" gear and a trail-riding gear, with a manual-shift at the trailhead. (I no longer own a car.)

    I'm thinking of 34/18 and 36/16.

    Anyone else running this type of set-up? Pics?

    thanks!
    -robinny
    I am in the proccess of setting up my old Bontrager race with one ring - 34 to start with. I bought a White eccentric flip flop hub, which gives me 15 mm of chain tension to play with. The folks on the phone at WI said that equates to 2 teeth before I need to change my brake pads, and possibly 4 teeth if you dont use rear brakes.

    My plan is to use something like 34/18 freewheel on one side, and a 34/16 fixed cog for the road. (34/15 without brakes) Up front will have a bashring made from an old outerchainring.

    I'm going to use my old rim, cheap chainrings, so my total cash out is like 125 for the hub, spokes, plus 60 or so for cog/freewheel and chain.... Not so bad, really.

  11. #11
    Mtn Biker Machinist
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    4 speed?

    I am in the process of setting up my converted ss for a double ring, surly flip flop hub setup. 42/15 for commuting, 32/18 for ss mtb. I use and old deore dx deraileur for tension, and dont mess with brakes (vert drops). The only draw back is a pretty slack chain in the 32/18 combo. Haven't tried it on the trails yet, cuz it's been raining in UT for a couple weeks, but I hope I don't have any problems with the chain derailing in the rough. I could go 36/18 to raise the ratio and take up more chain slack, just depends on how well I can handle them thar' hills! Most of the local trails are up one way down the other.

  12. #12
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    2 cogs front, 2 rear? What's this? the Mingle Speed forum?
    "The man is richest whose pleasures are the cheapest" Henry David Thoreau (obviously a single speeder)

    "...everytime you throw something away your load gets lighter..."

  13. #13
    Mtn Biker Machinist
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    It's called utilitarian tinkering! I can't afford to buy a dedicated ss commuter, and a dedicated ss mtb (though if I could I would!), so for now the old hardtail conversion has to do it all! I also have a converted FS SS!

  14. #14
    hands up who wants to die
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    For me - i don't have a car, and have a long commute to the trails.
    I guess I could ride the 15-20 miles to the trails on a bike with road-gearing while carrying a 2nd bike with trail-gearing on my back. That would be good for training purposes; I wonder if Weir has thought of it.

    -rob in Brooklyn

  15. #15
    try driving your car less
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    For me - i don't have a car, and have a long commute to the trails.
    I guess I could ride the 15-20 miles to the trails on a bike with road-gearing while carrying a 2nd bike with trail-gearing on my back. That would be good for training purposes; I wonder if Weir has thought of it.

    -rob in Brooklyn
    with that distance it makes sense. i was going to do this, but i only ride like 2 miles to trails. with 34-18 offroad and 36-16 onroad: so the ratio of the ratios is (36/16)/(34/18)=1.19 so the taller gear is about 19% faster with the same cadence. so say it takes about 17% less time to get to the trailhead (1/1.19). it takes me about 10 minutes to ride there. so i would get there instead in 8 and a half minutes. i save 90 seconds each way. so 3 minutes. to swithc the gearing with my hand (including stopping at the trailhead and doing it then getting back on) takes roughly the same amount of time.
    my point is that while it feels really slow to spin the low mtn gearing on the flat road to the trailhead, unless you put on a really bigger gear, you are not going that much faster so you dont save oodles of time. most important for me is that i just really love that feeling of dropping off the end of the road into the woods without stopping.
    Only boring people get bored.

  16. #16
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    But, if you rock 34/18 off road and 38/14 on road you can use the same chain (i think, right??) and you get about 44% increase (1.9 to 2.7) in gearing for the road, which, at the same cadence gets you to the trailhead almost twice as fast!! That might be the ticket right there...sweet.

  17. #17
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    The old fashioned solution to this was the flip-flop hub. Lighter (just)
    "The man is richest whose pleasures are the cheapest" Henry David Thoreau (obviously a single speeder)

    "...everytime you throw something away your load gets lighter..."

  18. #18
    I'm sticky
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    I just set up my FSSS as a 2x1. 34T and 46T up front with a 19T in the rear.

    I figured I'd try it since I already have the derailleur on as a chain tensioner (chainstay length changes during suspension travel). No shifter, just manual shifting. Haven't gotten it out for a real ride yet, but it looks like it will work just fine.

    Quick, easy and cheap.

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