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  1. #1
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    Dual chain ring question

    Does anybody have experience with a dual chainring set-up.
    I'm interested in the possibility.
    Specifically I have a Karate Monkey with 110mmBB , Race Face Turbine Cranks with a 34t chainring and 16t freewheel.I'd like to run a 42 in addition to the 34. Is this possible(chainlength and all)?

    Pros and cons?

  2. #2
    mudnthebloodnthebeer
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanzoTi
    Does anybody have experience with a dual chainring set-up.
    I'm interested in the possibility.
    Specifically I have a Karate Monkey with 110mmBB , Race Face Turbine Cranks with a 34t chainring and 16t freewheel.I'd like to run a 42 in addition to the 34. Is this possible(chainlength and all)?

    Pros and cons?

    To use the same chain the total number of teeth in your chainring and rear cog will have to be the same. For instance, I routinely switch between a 36-19 and 34-21 depending on where I'm riding. A 42 sounds a bit much. A 38-12 would get you where you're going in a hurry.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanzoTi
    Does anybody have experience with a dual chainring set-up.
    I'm interested in the possibility.
    Specifically I have a Karate Monkey with 110mmBB , Race Face Turbine Cranks with a 34t chainring and 16t freewheel.I'd like to run a 42 in addition to the 34. Is this possible(chainlength and all)?

    Pros and cons?
    Have used this set up. One of my former bikes was a 3x1. You need a tensioner. An old road derailler does fine. To shift to a larger ring you have to get off the bike, lift up the bike with the left hand and use the right thumb to lift the chain over onto the larger ring while turning the ring at the same time. Very quick. To shift to a smaller ring you can do as above or you can shift while riding by nudging the chain over with your right foot while the left foot is making a downstroke. Its a simple system that works well if you need a hill climbing gear, a SS gear and a gear for the flats/road, and you can only afford one bike.

  4. #4
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    sorry, double post
    Last edited by SoCalDesertRider; 09-07-2005 at 08:26 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by hu-man
    Have used this set up. One of my former bikes was a 3x1. You need a tensioner. An old road derailler does fine. To shift to a larger ring you have to get off the bike, lift up the bike with the left hand and use the right thumb to lift the chain over onto the larger ring while turning the ring at the same time. Very quick. To shift to a smaller ring you can do as above or you can shift while riding by nudging the chain over with your right foot while the left foot is making a downstroke. Its a simple system that works well if you need a hill climbing gear, a SS gear and a gear for the flats/road, and you can only afford one bike.
    Wouldn't it be easier, quicker, cleaner and less complicated to just use a front derailuer???

  6. #6
    FIFI!
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalDesertRider
    Wouldn't it be easier, quicker, cleaner and less complicated to just use a front derailuer???
    i think so. still need a tensioner though.

  7. #7
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    Works for me...

    I've been using a dual chainring setup for quite a while on my '96 stumpy. I use an old Deore DX derailuer to tension and my hand to switch gears. This setup works great for commuting or riding to the trail head and then switching to ride trails. I would recommend optimizing chainline for the smaller chaining.

    Commuting to work, 42x16

    Riding in the woods, 34x16
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalDesertRider
    Wouldn't it be easier, quicker, cleaner and less complicated to just use a front derailuer???
    Less complicated? You have a shifter, cable and front derailleur to maintain.
    Quicker? You pick the SS gear for the type of ride facing you and you stick with it. You don't change gears for every hill or flat - well, you can gear down using your toe if a long big hill faces you, or not.
    Cleaner? I'll give you that one, but you don't change gears alot in a ride.
    Easier? Single speeding isn't about "easy". Its about personal challenge.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanzoTi
    Does anybody have experience with a dual chainring set-up.
    I'm interested in the possibility.
    Specifically I have a Karate Monkey with 110mmBB , Race Face Turbine Cranks with a 34t chainring and 16t freewheel.I'd like to run a 42 in addition to the 34. Is this possible(chainlength and all)?

    Pros and cons?
    It'd be impossible to do with a freewheel and without a tensioner. I am in the midst of a similar project on my new inbred. I should have enough room to go with a 34*20 'on the inside' and 44*15 'on the outside'. I am using a regular cassette type rear hub with spacers between novatec cogs. This gives me a good mountain gear and a good commuting gear - of course i'll have to get off the bike to move the chain and tension the wheel but it should work.

  10. #10
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    93 steel stumpy here- although it's a bit small for the commuting, so I'm switching parts over to a similar vintage yokota (columbus offroad tubing) I just scored off that auction site.

    48 (alu) /36 (stainless onza) on old xt cranks with an 18t DX cog & a Paul's melvin for a tensioner (picked up on epay pretty cheap). Using a mix of old cassette spacers & 1 1/4" pvc pipe on an old mavic/lx wheelset.
    I was using an old DX short cage, but it's portly... a road der would be the ticket out of the LBS spare parts bin on the cheap.

    I shift with heel to smaller chainring, although I haven't quite got the hang of upshifting while 'on the fly' just yet. Haven't lost the chain yet w/ lack of front derailler. I was using one w/ a thumbie to shift, but decided to go for a cleaner look w/ the Mary bar.
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