Do I need shorter SS chainring bolts?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: djork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,658

    Do I need shorter SS chainring bolts?

    Just got done swapping out the 32t ring for a 36t ring and removing the bashguard that came with the Race Face SS crankset. I was able to tighten two of the bolts till they stopped, but noticed that two bolts continued to turn a bit when I tried to tighten the bolt. I then realized that I have regular chainring bolts and since I removed the bashguard, the bolt goes in farther into the the thread.

    I looked at my work, and it loks like the chaing ring is tight and secure, just that I can still turn the ring bolts a bit. They're not loose by any means, just that I can still crank them. They're not cross threaded into the the threaded part; rather, the whole bolt unit spins. I can't use any sort of flat screwdriver to hold that back "female" part of the bolt unit beacuse the bolt actually pokes out of about 1/2 mm.

    Should I buy SS ring bolts or just save my money and use the RF bolts taht came with my crankset?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Flat Ark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,646
    Quote Originally Posted by djork View Post
    Just got done swapping out the 32t ring for a 36t ring and removing the bashguard that came with the Race Face SS crankset. I was able to tighten two of the bolts till they stopped, but noticed that two bolts continued to turn a bit when I tried to tighten the bolt. I then realized that I have regular chainring bolts and since I removed the bashguard, the bolt goes in farther into the the thread.

    I looked at my work, and it loks like the chaing ring is tight and secure, just that I can still turn the ring bolts a bit. They're not loose by any means, just that I can still crank them. They're not cross threaded into the the threaded part; rather, the whole bolt unit spins. I can't use any sort of flat screwdriver to hold that back "female" part of the bolt unit beacuse the bolt actually pokes out of about 1/2 mm.

    Should I buy SS ring bolts or just save my money and use the RF bolts taht came with my crankset?
    If your chainring is good and tight then you are "probably" ok. However I would definitely use some lock-tite on the threads since you are able to still spin the bolts. It's usually the female side of the bolts that are too long and will not allow you to secure your sprocket. You can also use some washers to take up the space left by removing your bashguard.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    334
    the chainring bolts are cheap. i got mine for 5 bucks @ lbs

  4. #4
    one chain loop
    Reputation: fishcreek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,360
    i usually file the female part short enough that it doesn't protrude out the chainring but not too short that it doesn't support the chainring anymore.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: djork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,658
    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Ark View Post
    If your chainring is good and tight then you are "probably" ok. However I would definitely use some lock-tite on the threads since you are able to still spin the bolts. It's usually the female side of the bolts that are too long and will not allow you to secure your sprocket. You can also use some washers to take up the space left by removing your bashguard.
    Washers! Ha! Why didn't I think of that. Just went to look at my washer box and don't think I have one that will let the female part go through it.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: djork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,658
    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek View Post
    i usually file the female part short enough that it doesn't protrude out the chainring but not too short that it doesn't support the chainring anymore.
    the female part doesn't actually protrude past the spider arms that I can see them. If I recall, it is about 10mm in length, maybe a little shorter. It's just that the bolt, once threaded into the female part, protrudes a 1/2 mm past it in the back so that I can't use something flat to hold the female part securely to turn the bolt for the final tightening.

    I wish I could find things that cheap at my LBS! But I haven't inquired about cost of ring bolts yet. Cheapest I saw on Ebay was $7 for a set of five. The RF bolts look pretty nice, so hate to replace them, yet then again I prefer SS bolts if it is recommended.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bomber495's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    121
    When I install my chainring bolts, I had the same issue with the longer ones. They spun like yours, and felt tight by hand... but not when I hit the trail. I found I needed the shorter bolts.

    If you can't secure the female part of the bolt, I would recommend picking up a chainring bolt tool to help. Lbs should have them for like $5-10. It may help you get proper torque on those bolts to see if you really do need shorter ones.

  8. #8
    Low Rep Count
    Reputation: 1SPD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,958
    If you don't have washers then new bolts is the best option. I ordered a set of KCNC SS bolts from Fairwheelbikes.com. They were pretty cheap and were mailed really fast. You can also take the chainring bolts you have and head to a home improvements store or lbs and see if you can find washers that fit. My vote is new chainring bolts though.

    KCNC Single Speed Chainring Bolts : Fairwheelbikes.com

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    29
    FYI

    http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopsingle.html do slightly wider chainrings, this means no need for SS specific chain bolts.

    I don't work there, just a happy customer

    Have since removed the tensioner, running the Holy Grail 2:1 offroad.


    I can shift, just not my gears.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    It's all in the mind.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Flat Ark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,646
    Quote Originally Posted by djork View Post
    Washers! Ha! Why didn't I think of that. Just went to look at my washer box and don't think I have one that will let the female part go through it.

    Do you have any that will fit the male side? I think that would be the better side for the washer anyhow.

  11. #11
    Kaishingo
    Reputation: wuzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    248
    Hmm - I seem to need shorter chainring bolts. Must be the chainring's fault! I guess the only solution is a $40+USD chainring special ordered from UK

    $10 will get you the right thing - and you have an excuse to visit the LBS.

    And filing down the female part to make it fit?? This reminds me of my poor college days where I would spend hours trying to stuff a frayed gear cable through housing so I wouldn't have to pay $3 for a new cable.

    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    FYI

    VeloSolo Shop - Singlespeed Spacer Kits, Cogs, Tensioners and Accessories do slightly wider chainrings, this means no need for SS specific chain bolts.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    334
    Yea!!! support lbs!

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    29
    However if you are looking to replace your chainring and your LBS doesn't stock SS parts, then you now know that you can buy them from Velosolo and you will be able to use your existing chainring bolts.

    That's all.

    No need to flame off cause I gave some information.

    I know with SS riders it's all in the mind but sometimes I do wonder


    I can shift, just not my gears.
    It's all in the mind.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cygnus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    481
    no, you need shorter nuts on those chainring bolts when using a single chainring. standard bolts are designed for either two chainrings, or a chainring and a bashguard. shorter ones available in various places. i shop webcyclery.com.

    if you can get away with it based on riding style, a chainring w/o a bashguard is elegant.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    644
    I used washers on my pink noir cranks so I could keep the pink bolts. If you don't get it tight enough, it will drive you crazy from creaking every time you apply a lot of pressure.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: djork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,658
    Got a set of SS chainring bolts and they are perfect!

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    170
    my 3x to 1x conversion has bolts too long.

    Is M8 x 0.75 x 6.2mm too long or will it fit and short enough for my 1x 32t

    FSA Chainring Bolts // M8 x 0.75 x 6.2mm // 5 Pack | eBay

Similar Threads

  1. Help me with chainring bolts
    By Sjb93 in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-02-2011, 06:59 PM
  2. Shorter chainring bolts for SLX cranks
    By baltik in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-06-2010, 08:13 PM
  3. Ok to use shorter bolts on a stem?
    By bad mechanic in forum Weight Weenies
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-09-2009, 08:50 AM
  4. SS Chainring bolts
    By joetmtb in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-13-2008, 11:24 AM
  5. Chainring replacement: lube chainring bolts?
    By journey in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-23-2006, 11:35 AM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.