Diacomp 287v's, install questions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Diacomp 287v's, install questions

    trying to install some 287v's on my new cross singlespeed and the damn things keep having cable drag. Any ideas? The design of the lever just seems to crimp the cable as it comes around the handlebar.

    MC

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by MellowCat
    trying to install some 287v's on my new cross singlespeed and the damn things keep having cable drag. Any ideas? The design of the lever just seems to crimp the cable as it comes around the handlebar.

    MC
    The 287-Vs were designed to route the cable out at an angle (through that funny "elbow" noodle that they came with), not 90 degrees out and along the handlebars as with normal aero levers. Try sticking those extra noodles in the funny holes in the lever body and routing the cable out through them, and I think you'll find they are much smoother.

    Wish I could describe it more eloquently than that, but take a close look at the lever bodies and I think you'll see what I mean.

  3. #3
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    Ok....

    so how do you tape the bars up with those funny ends on? They seem to stick way up. I was also suprised that the ends don't really fit into the levers at all, they just are in line on the cable. Am I missing how this works? There weren't any instructions with them!

    Thanks,

    MC

    Quote Originally Posted by GlowBoy
    The 287-Vs were designed to route the cable out at an angle (through that funny "elbow" noodle that they came with), not 90 degrees out and along the handlebars as with normal aero levers. Try sticking those extra noodles in the funny holes in the lever body and routing the cable out through them, and I think you'll find they are much smoother.

    Wish I could describe it more eloquently than that, but take a close look at the lever bodies and I think you'll see what I mean.

  4. #4
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    Good job!

    I'm running the 287V's on two bikes.

    I've always just used good cable housing with a bare end (where it goes into the lever)...

    And I DON'T wrap the housing underneath the handlebar tape....sometimes under just two or three wraps. I've found that wrapping beneath the entire tape causes a lot of drag.

    Mine are smooth as can be!

  5. #5
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    New question here.

    Are you referring to the "noodles" with the adjuster on 'em??

    I run those like any other noodle...down at the brake calipers.






    Quote Originally Posted by GlowBoy
    The 287-Vs were designed to route the cable out at an angle (through that funny "elbow" noodle that they came with), not 90 degrees out and along the handlebars as with normal aero levers. Try sticking those extra noodles in the funny holes in the lever body and routing the cable out through them, and I think you'll find they are much smoother.

    Wish I could describe it more eloquently than that, but take a close look at the lever bodies and I think you'll see what I mean.

  6. #6
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
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    tips

    don't use those noodles or whatever.
    reverse the levers. put the R lever on the L side, and vicey versey. the levers are designed for the cables to be routed along the front of the drop bar. by reversing the levers, the cables exit the levers so you can run the cables along the back side of the bar. the advantage of this is a larger radius bend and thus, less cable drag.
    also,f hook up the brakes completely and dial them in to perfection BEFORE you tape the housing to the bar, let alone wrap the bar tape. that way the cables will find their own position of least resistance, the ends will seat in the hoods fully and you won't have any bad surprises after finishing taping only to find you have to untape and start again because the brakes are binding because the housing is messed up going into the levers.
    Don't pay the $85 fee to ride land you own! Resist!

  7. #7
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    Thanks...

    for all the ideas. Ended up flipping the levers with no noodle. No drag at all!

    I'll post some pics of the new ride tomorrow.

    MC

    Quote Originally Posted by bulC
    don't use those noodles or whatever.
    reverse the levers. put the R lever on the L side, and vicey versey. the levers are designed for the cables to be routed along the front of the drop bar. by reversing the levers, the cables exit the levers so you can run the cables along the back side of the bar. the advantage of this is a larger radius bend and thus, less cable drag.
    also,f hook up the brakes completely and dial them in to perfection BEFORE you tape the housing to the bar, let alone wrap the bar tape. that way the cables will find their own position of least resistance, the ends will seat in the hoods fully and you won't have any bad surprises after finishing taping only to find you have to untape and start again because the brakes are binding because the housing is messed up going into the levers.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MellowCat
    I'll post some pics of the new ride tomorrow.
    'Bout dang time! I've been wanting to see something other than the bare frame. I bet it'll be good.

  9. #9
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
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    there ya go, you're welcome

    Quote Originally Posted by MellowCat
    for all the ideas. Ended up flipping the levers with no noodle. No drag at all!

    I'll post some pics of the new ride tomorrow.

    MC
    Great. That advise about switching the L and R levers applies of course to all road levers with under-tape routing. It's one of those little tricks not well known to the general bike stuff-consuming public, like running the L shifter cable into the R side down tube frame stop and vicey versey with the bare cables crossing under the down tube, so the housings make a wider arc. yeah I don't recall seeing no weird noodle things, though I have the canti 287s on my cross bike, so I'm thinking those things might be the noodles for down at the V brakes.
    Don't pay the $85 fee to ride land you own! Resist!

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