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Thread: Cranksets

  1. #1
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    Cranksets

    Regarding cranks:

    Should I be looking for a singlespeed crankset, or will a double or triple with rings do?
    How easy and functional is it to take off a ring and use a double crankset?

    Also, for xc riding, could I use an Ultegra double crank, or mountain only?

  2. #2
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    Hi

    Pretty much any crankset will do, although if you have a specifically built SS frame it might be nice to put a SS crankset on it such as a Middleburn, White Industries etc.

    Most people tend to use a standard crankset, Race Face, XT/XTR etc and just take the rings off. It's really easy to do, I took the granny and the outer ring off and moved my middle ring (32T) onto the outside.

    I use a Race Face Deus which I've just put a Boone Ti chainring on:


  3. #3
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    I would prefer a ss crank, but they are expensive.

    What about road cranks? Will they survive my 210lbs? I ask as I have a brand new 6500 Ultegra crank sitting right here.

  4. #4
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    No problem with a road crank but you will need some flexibility on adjusting chainline in the drivetrain - personally I believe no bike is complete without at least one Campag item on it!

    Here is mine (flattie pedals as well....)

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    Quote Originally Posted by afie
    I would prefer a ss crank.
    Why?

    Esthetics? If so slap a Spot Brand chainring guard on it and you are done.

    I prefer any 5 arm compact system for flexibility in obtaining chainrings. I currently run RF Tubine LPs, but have a set of Cook Bros on the way. Read: I may have a set of 180 RF Turbine LPs square taper available....
    aLaN AT BikeMojo DOT com

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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeMojo
    Read: I may have a set of 180 RF Turbine LPs square taper available....
    I am interested. I would prefer to sell the ultegra (not sure ill get that much for them on ebay) and get 180mm cranks.

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    Road Cranks 130 BCD

    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here, but road cranks are 130mm BCD and the smallest chainring they will accept is 38 tooth. 38 is pretty tall gearing for just about anything besides flattish type rides. I run a 32x18 on my SS, but I do live in the mountains at altitude and am not really strong. You should sell the Ultegra and roll the money into a SS specific crankset. Speedgoat.com has a White Industries with a 180 length for $185 with a 32 or a 34 c-ring. Or you could pick up a used mountain crank off ebay and take off the large and small ring. Also a very good option. Like another poster mentioned, get a Spot bash ring and you won't even need to get new single c-ring bolts. I hope this helps and good luck.

  8. #8
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    ^^ Depends on the crank, my roadie has 110 BCD cranks.

  9. #9
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    Yeah, one of the newer compact road cranks could work. I did just put some Middleburns on and really like them. Nice stuff.

  10. #10
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    I was going to start a new thread but I thought I'd add to this one.

    OK, so we know that SS cranks and more to the point bottom brackets take more of a beating than geared bikes. Infact my Race Face X-Type has prematurly developed a creaking that would go no matter how many times I strip and re-grease it.

    So would a White Industries crank with a square taper BB be stronger/more resiliant? What about a Middleburm with an ISIS BB, or should I just replace the RF X-Type BB with a new one?

  11. #11
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    I suppose what I'm asking is, what's better for SS, External, Square Taper or ISIS?

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    well, i'm not sure there's a clear answer. i've heard good and bad about all of those. i've always used square taper in the past with no problems. pretty easy to work with, but not really great if you take your arms on and off all the time.

    the middleburns are isis. wouldn't have done it if the SKF BBs weren't available. so many bad things out there about isis, but the SKF seem decent.

    as for external, to each their own. i suppose the higher end shimano stuff is fine. however, i've heard a lot of stories of slippage and such, just heard another one this past weekend where the non-drive arm actually slipped. and a friend had the truvativ SS cranks and they creaked from the get go, no matter what he did. ended up ditching them in the end.

    i'd say the easiest are the square taper, but the isis and external offer a bit of stiffness the square taper might not. however, i have no idea how much stiffer they truly are, or how much that matters once you add in the flex from your shoes, frame, crank arms, pedal spindles, spokes, rims, big tires, etc.

  13. #13
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    I've been running external RF for a couple of years on a few different bikes and have never suffered any slippage.

    I think if I were going to buy a SS specific crank set it would be between a White Industries with a Phil Wood BB or a Middleburn, and I'm just about to check out what this SKF BB is all about!

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    What is wrong with 38 or more teeth? There seems to be an unwritten rule that SS's should use 32/16 - there is no advantage to small rings - big is better - 39/19 free 39/18 fixed (what I use) gives a lot more teeth to spread the load.

    Surly blog says it all really:

    http://www.surlybikes.com/spew3.html

    And I am a big fan of square taper - it's simple, adaptable and it works. And it's still good enough for over half the pro-peleton...

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    nothing wrong with 38/19

    There is nothing wrong with 38/18 or 38/19 and you are correct about distributing the load across more teeth. 38/18 = 2.11:1 and 38/19 = 2:1 Where I ride, there are a lot of long steep climbs that I personally just couldn't push that big of a gear ratio. This is what I ride32/18 = 1.77:1 I wold be walking a lot of hills if I tried to go to a much bigger ratio.

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    Sorry

    Didn't mean to hijack the thread. White Industries with Phil Wood or SKF. Have heard great things about SKF and they have been in the bearing business a long time. I work in a vehicle maintenance shop and SKF are widely used in my industry in many different applications.

  17. #17
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    only thing to worry about with a road crank is the chain line and also if it will rub the frame or not, if it does, a wider bottom bracket will fix that

  18. #18
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    You've offered up some good advice to me before...

    Quote Originally Posted by BikeMojo
    Why?

    Esthetics? If so slap a Spot Brand chainring guard on it and you are done.

    I prefer any 5 arm compact system for flexibility in obtaining chainrings. I currently run RF Tubine LPs, but have a set of Cook Bros on the way. Read: I may have a set of 180 RF Turbine LPs square taper available....
    I'll do it for you... Don't do it. (get rid of the RFs, that is) You'll regret it. I've got 2 RF Turbine sets in 180s, one sq tarper and one ISIS. Both will likely go with me to my grave. Awsome sets. (I must admit I like the smooth look of the Middleburns.)

    To the OP, one thing about non-SS specific cranksets is resale might be better should you decide to get rid of them. Also non-SS sets alow you to put your ring on either the inside or outside of the spider to help with chainline adjustments. Not sure if that's something you can do with SS specific cranks.

    To the others, I feared my beloved set of Turbine ISIS cranks would be delegated to the for sale bin after not being able to find a BB that would last more than 3 months. I put in an SKS ISIS several weeks ago and so far so good. Advertised as good for 10 years but warantieed for 2 I believe. Heck, if I get 2 solid years out of it I won't complain too much.

    My issue with the square tapers is that they weigh so much. I'm no gram counter but my older shimanos came in at around 400g! I think the Phil woods come in at a respectable weight. Anyone know about other not-so-heavy sq BBs?

    Mike

  19. #19
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    Hi MikerJ

    I ordered a new RF X-Type BB today, they just look so nice on the bike, are very stiff and lighter than the other options I mentioned as far as I can tell, although the SKF BB's do look really good.


  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J
    My issue with the square tapers is that they weigh so much. I'm no gram counter but my older shimanos came in at around 400g! I think the Phil woods come in at a respectable weight. Anyone know about other not-so-heavy sq BBs?

    Mike
    My favourite BB of all time Shimano's UN73 (XT level) cartridge sq taper BB weighs approx 275g and costs 18 in the UK. They are truly fit and forget and last for eons.

  21. #21
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    When I changed my MTB over I set up with a 16 rear cog. I kept my triple and ran off the 38 middle ring at first, but as I use it mainly for commuting (with only 2 hills on the way) I was spinning out too much on the flats. I changed it up to the big cog now run 48/16. Way faster on the flat and even though I have to stand and crank on the hills, I prefer it.

    Though ideally, I think a 44 or 42 would be my ideal when I do get a SS crankset.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J
    I'll do it for you... Don't do it. (get rid of the RFs, that is) You'll regret it. I've got 2 RF Turbine sets in 180s, one sq tarper and one ISIS. Both will likely go with me to my grave. Awsome sets. (I must admit I like the smooth look of the Middleburns.)

    I rode the 180's for several years. This spring moved away from the 180's to 175's. (I have a set of 175mm Blk Turbine LP's as well). I am 5'6" and the 175's work for me. I know what you mean about keeping them. If I ever needed to find another set I'd be hard pressed.... But I don't think I'll use them again, and these need to be ridden.

    Middleburn, yes. I like your style.
    aLaN AT BikeMojo DOT com

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