Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?

    Given modern carbon crank construction is pretty advanced these days... would Singlespeeders still feel comfortable mashing on them, day-in day-out?

    I already know Alloy has well proven itself.

    Pic of Jeff Jones modified XTR M960/Boone ti, for attention. Discuss...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?-jj_m960ss1.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    Iíve just always used Shimano cranks on all my bikes. Have never tried the carbon.
    Plenty stiff for me.


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  3. #3
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    My concerns about running carbon, is the heavy torque applied to the long arms and how the alloy pedal inserts fare.


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  4. #4
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    I primarily use XT's, great bang for the buck. I'm not super focused on weigh but require a very solid setup, Shimano cranks are the best, for me.

    I'm not opposed to carbon cranks, but they're pricey and not worth it to me. Plus I've seen way too many RF carbon cranks fail, it's shocking how many of them break. With the way I pound on equipment I'm pretty sure they would live a short life. No thanks.

    If I wanted something lighter I'd probably go XTR, but I wonder if those are more fragile than the XT's? They're pretty light for aluminum.

    White Industries are sexy as hell, but not the lightest and you're stuck using their chainrings if that matters.

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  5. #5
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    I've never felt like spending the $$ on crabon stuff.

    I was disappointed with the bearing life of SRAM.

    Shimano BBs have been awesome. I had SLX cranks but managed to crack an arm on the spider.

    Currently on RaceFace Aeffect cranks. Works with my Shimano BB and I like their direct-mount chainring interface.

  6. #6
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    I donít trust the longevity of carbon on a part that routinely takes some hard hits.

    My RF aeffect cranks have been absolutely bulletproof despite looking literally like I tied them to my car and drug them down the road.

    I mean, like theyíre missing chunks and I still trust them 100%.


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  7. #7
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    All good points, guys. Looks like alloy is winning...
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    Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cayenne_Pepa View Post
    All good points, guys. Looks like alloy is winning...
    I had XT M785 cranks in 1X setting, pretty stiff, fairly light. Now I have Stylo carbon DUB. A bit lighter, but I cannot feel stiffness difference. If you are not very weight conscious, go for XT, new version of course, I have tried them on a demo bike (they are also a bit cheaper and less fear from banging them on something hard).
    IĎm sure some other great alloy options are out there, but I have no experience.
    P.S. Do not go for Eagle NX, they are a bit flexy and quite heavy (but thatĎs what entry level alloy is).


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  9. #9
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    I haven't had problem with carbon, but it would be based on my budget and weight target and the type of bike. I will say, the weight penalty isn't what it used to be. Even 10 years ago a cheap crank could add close to a pound of weight not counting the BB. I still have an older RF crank that's pushing 1000g without the boat anchor ISIS BB. But now, grab a turbine cinch, 550g out the door for under $200, pretty tough to go wrong there.

    But, I run Al on my AM bike and carbon on my light XC bikes and an older 1x converted steel XT crank on my cruiser.
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  10. #10
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    my buddy gave me some RF carbon cranks. i'm pretty big at 210lbs and mash em up as much as i can. no issues at all. up until the new RF carbons, i used XT cranks exclusively.
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  11. #11
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    I have both... (XTR and Stylo alloy, XO and Truvativ carbon)

    Wasted the insert on one side of a carbon set, otherwise they do fine.

    I probably bash through more rocky stuff with the alloy cranks as I am not at all concerned about scarring/damaging them.
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  12. #12
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    Was on the Race Face Turbines and had all kinds of creaking. Problem solved:

    Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?-xtr-chumba.jpg

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jestep View Post
    But now, grab a turbine cinch, 550g out the door for under $200, pretty tough to go wrong there.
    With the right BB interface I agree the Turbines are a great crank for the money, but PF92 wasn't designed with 30mm spindles in mind and bearing life becomes a problem. Generally I avoid PF at all costs anyway, but creaking and bearing life are more of a problem with a 30mm spindle.

    I can't wait for t47 to become more mainstream and this will cease to be a problem.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cortez View Post
    Was on the Race Face Turbines and had all kinds of creaking. Problem solved:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That crank looks awesome all clean and shiny, sexy almost. Too bad it will never look like that again.
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  15. #15
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    Hollowgram.

    Aluminum. Super stiff, lighter than just about everything else, more durable than anything itís heavier than, dozens of spindle widths available.

    Power meter options from SRM, Stages, P2M. Found used for $200 or less, regularly.


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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Hollowgram.

    Aluminum. Super stiff, lighter than just about everything else, more durable than anything itís heavier than, dozens of spindle widths available.

    Power meter options from SRM, Stages, P2M. Found used for $200 or less, regularly.


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    I wish I could install Hollowgram SL in my old-geo Seven. I hate it eccentric BB only allows a 24mm spindle.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Hollowgram.

    Aluminum. Super stiff, lighter than just about everything else, more durable than anything itís heavier than, dozens of spindle widths available.

    Power meter options from SRM, Stages, P2M. Found used for $200 or less, regularly.


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    Which hollowgram is easy to find? I watched ebay for about 3 years trying to to find a sisl2 and never saw anything for under $300 - $400 except a few beat to crap ones with road spindles.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jestep View Post
    Which hollowgram is easy to find? I watched ebay for about 3 years trying to to find a sisl2 and never saw anything for under $300 - $400 except a few beat to crap ones with road spindles.
    I directed someone else here to an SiSL2 for <$250 a couple months back. Complete with SpiderRing.

    Only one Iíve paid more than $200 for was my SRM.


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  19. #19
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    Iíve used old square taper RF Turbines the I tried the E13 with the Tank axle(bearings in my BB didnít last a month) I got the RF Next spline when it was made in Canada ( great crank, still have it. I got the new RF Next G4 and bent pedal axle inserts 2x and Iím only 160# but I do ride a lot and Iím hard on my bikes. RaceFace is a good company and replaced both sets. I got the SixC but put it on my geared hardtail. I replaced my SS cranks with the new Hope evo cranks, OMG I totally noticed the increased stiffness. They have proprietary chain rings and tools but itís worth it. I have the Hope BB and it seems to last a bit longer than many of the others Iíve used.
    Iím going to try the eeWings next since now they have that new BB.
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  20. #20
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    You take your chances with carbon cranks because of the extra torque from SS mashing.
    Another thing to consider is the BB that you will be replacing if your riding often.
    I think the new M8100 XT cranks are strong and durable and itís nice to buy inexpensive Shimano BBís. XTR M9100 if you want direct mount rings.
    I have cranks that use the 30mm BSA threaded external cups but in hindsight I thing the 24mm axles are nicer just because the BBís will probably last longer.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardmtnbiker View Post
    You take your chances with carbon cranks because of the extra torque from SS mashing.
    Another thing to consider is the BB that you will be replacing if your riding often.
    I think the new M8100 XT cranks are strong and durable and itís nice to buy inexpensive Shimano BBís. XTR M9100 if you want direct mount rings.
    I have cranks that use the 30mm BSA threaded external cups but in hindsight I thing the 24mm axles are nicer just because the BBís will probably last longer.
    Good to know!
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  22. #22
    Rod
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    I use an XT triple. The weight is acceptable, but more importantly I can use a mount a larger ring on it so I don't have to worry about destroying a carbon frame. With my XX1 crank I was limited to a 32 as a max chainring size. Personally, I'd use carbon or aluminum.

  23. #23
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    Alloy all the way. I'll never use a carbon component. No Shimano either with their proprietary chainring mounting off and on over the past 20+ years, which is too bad because they make nice stuff, most of the time. E13 can KMA too.
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  24. #24
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    I use Profile BMX cranks - they do not flex.

    Scratch_build4.jpg

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    I use Profile BMX cranks - they do not flex.

    Scratch_build4.jpg
    I seriously considered White Industries square taper CNC cranx...
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  26. #26
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    If I were buying a crank for a frame with a BSA, and I want White Industries, I'd get the M30 crank no question.

    There's no need to go with square taper. Even with a 30mm spindle the external cups place the bearings outside the BB shell so you don't see the issues you would with a PF92.

    I really like the WI stuff. Any time I go to a trade show or check out bikes from custom frame builders, the White Industries cranks are everywhere. They look great and are a solid product.

    If you go WI, get the M30's.
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  27. #27
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    I care more about having a direct mount chainring than arm material, love the clean look and less interfaces to creak. I have a Sram X9 crankset and it has been great with a Wolftooth oval ring.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    I use Profile BMX cranks - they do not flex.

    Scratch_build4.jpg
    I've had the same experience, and I've wondered if it's because the internal BB feels less flexy than an external BB. On a steel frame, at least.

    My BMX has a Spanish BB, in which sealed bearings are pressed into the frame. Therefore, the bearings are retained by the steel of the frame, and it feels very solid underneath the feet. On my mountain bikes, they have GXP or Dub external bottom brackets. These feel more flexy. I've wondered if using light aluminum outer cups is why. Just not as solid as bearings that are retained by the steel bottom bracket.

    Back to the topic at hand, the new dub GX cranks are nearly as light as Carbon cranks, at a fraction of the price. Carbon is fine until you get that one rock strike or scrape that begins delaminiation.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidnightFattie View Post
    I've had the same experience, and I've wondered if it's because the internal BB feels less flexy than an external BB. On a steel frame, at least.
    By Banshee frame has an American BB shell. I love it!

  30. #30
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    I have an SWorks Stumpjumper SS that has always had carbon cranks on it and never an issue. I believe it was built in 2013 and I am a big guy.


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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    I use Profile BMX cranks - they do not flex.

    Scratch_build4.jpg
    I am tempted to use BMX cranks when I build up a SS bike.
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidnightFattie View Post
    I've had the same experience, and I've wondered if it's because the internal BB feels less flexy than an external BB. On a steel frame, at least.

    My BMX has a Spanish BB, in which sealed bearings are pressed into the frame. Therefore, the bearings are retained by the steel of the frame, and it feels very solid underneath the feet. On my mountain bikes, they have GXP or Dub external bottom brackets. These feel more flexy. I've wondered if using light aluminum outer cups is why. Just not as solid as bearings that are retained by the steel bottom bracket.

    Back to the topic at hand, the new dub GX cranks are nearly as light as Carbon cranks, at a fraction of the price. Carbon is fine until you get that one rock strike or scrape that begins delaminiation.
    Iím actually happy with my first-generation GX cranks. Only 605g, with AB oval ring:


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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    If I were buying a crank for a frame with a BSA, and I want White Industries, I'd get the M30 crank no question.

    There's no need to go with square taper. Even with a 30mm spindle the external cups place the bearings outside the BB shell so you don't see the issues you would with a PF92.

    I really like the WI stuff. Any time I go to a trade show or check out bikes from custom frame builders, the White Industries cranks are everywhere. They look great and are a solid product.

    If you go WI, get the M30's.
    I have a WI front Hub on my gravel and just got the 30mm Threaded BB. They make amazing parts! Iím sure their crank set is perfect!
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  34. #34
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    - I pretty much have Shimano XT cranks on all my bikes........install 'em and forget 'em........
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  35. #35
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    Alloy for me! This one resulted in a very long walk out of the mountains for a buddy and I. A friend that doesn't bike at all goes "Don't you carry extra crank arms with you?!".... that comment made me realize how stupid breakable crank arms are. Not the place to sacrifice durability in my book.

    Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?-unnamed.jpg

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudderNutter View Post
    .... that comment made me realize how stupid breakable bicycle components are. Not the place to sacrifice durability in my book.
    Fixed it for you.

    Personally, I don't really care what any component weighs, let alone overall bike weight.

  37. #37
    eri
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    My used bike came with old fsa carbon cranks. Aluminum sleeve for pedal came loose.

    Replaced with an older used sram xx1 carbon crank with direct mount 34t ring. No issues for a few years. Light and stiff.
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    Fixed it for you.

    Personally, I don't really care what any component weighs, let alone overall bike weight.
    So, steel bike frame and every component made of steel and now you have a 50lb bike. Indestructible...like a tank.

    The old cliche fits nicely...

    Light / strong / cheap...pick any 2


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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    Fixed it for you.

    Personally, I don't really care what any component weighs, let alone overall bike weight.
    ^ good post.

    Quote Originally Posted by junior77 View Post
    So, steel bike frame and every component made of steel and now you have a 50lb bike. Indestructible...like a tank.

    The old cliche fits nicely...

    Light / strong / cheap...pick any 2
    ^ bad post.
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  40. #40
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    Carbon XX1 GXP cranksets on both my steel frames.

  41. #41
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    I had terrible experiences with RaceFace Next SL and Next R. Multiple crank arms ruined as the BB and pedal inserts kept coming loose.

    In the past I always used RaceFace Aluminum cranks without issue. I was lured in by the lightweight and incredible stiffness of the carbon, which they are both. Dig around online a bit and you'll find tonnes of info on how many failures these things have... based on my experience they're complete junk.

    Currently running some old Shimano SLX cranks and they're just fine. The ~100g difference isn't worth the hassle of thinking about whether or not my cranks are going to fail again.
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  42. #42
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    I decided to stay with my existing SRAM GX-1400 cranks. At 605g, I simply cannot fault them in any way.

    One of the very FEW rare instances where "light, cheap and strong" all apply!

    Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?-verve_done.jpg
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  43. #43
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    I prefer a mix of both.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cranks: Alloy or Carbon?-next.jpg  

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  44. #44
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    I have run Turbines on two bikes now. One of those bikes I don't have, but the crank is sitting in a box ready to use again if I need it. I beat the everlasting hell out of my cranks (both because I am aggressive, and like 175mm arms on a low bike). I also run Cinch PM's on more than one bike, the interface is handy for that.

    The other Cinch spindle is actually on my Cannondale Si crank. That is my XC bike which gets less abuse, but, still a lot of gouges over the years.

    The older XO1 carbon crank on my 2012 bike has held up fine. I have no idea what it weighs. While I haven't paid attention, I haven't heard of Sram carbon failures. Unlike RF where they are so plentiful, it's like reading about Guide brake failures...

    Just got my first Shimano equiped bike (my roadie is Cannondale Si and DuraAce). I have GRX on my gravel bike, and got a good deal on an XTR crank arm with a Stages PM. Time will tell what my opinion is on it, but I can't imagine I will find anything wrong with GRX or XTR.

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