Crank question(s)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Crank question(s)

    I picked up a replacement crankset for my SS and need some help with it. The crankset in question is a m752 XT crankset. I will admit to my ignorance when is comes to splined cranks, my experience is based mainly on square tapered cranks. I was trying to avoid the splined world but fell into it when I got these cranks as a gift. With this, we will move.

    I am having issues with the self extracting bolts that this system seems to have. I understand the concept of using the crank bolt to tighten the cranks onto the BB. My question is about the caps that screw into the cranks. They seem to need the use of a spanner, which I do not have. My first question, is there a cheap home made solution for tightening these caps? If not, what spanner wrench do I need? Park has a couple of different ones. How tight do they need to be? I guess my first question should be, I have a splined crank puller which I use for my road bike (does not have the same type of crank bolts) do I even need to use the self extracting caps? I guess someone could avoid all of these questions if you can point me in the direction of service instructions for these cranks, which I can not seem to find anywhere on Shimano's site. But then again I have been known to be an idiot.

    Thanks for the wisdom !
    Donkey

  2. #2
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    Not sure about Park tools...

    but I have one of these little tools. One end is a chainring nut wrench and the other is a spanner for the caps in question. Part #TL-FC20, also has code number Y-130 09130 listed at Shimano.com

    I install the caps (mostly to keep the threads clean) but still use a crankpuller to remove the cranks. If you have a puller that works on splined cranks, it should work on these cranks too.
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  3. #3
    Obi
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    Wink Ditto...

    Personally I try to not use crank.

    That being said, the tool mentioned should've come with your crankset, unless it was a "without box" sale. Your LBS should be able to get you one, they're pretty cheap to buy, and are always worth having in your bag for emergency repairs such as loose chainring bolts.

  4. #4
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    Home made

    I use a spoke. Bend it in half, then bend both sides down and cut them off at eaqual length. They don't need to be long, and you don't need to tighten those self-extractors much. Keep the threads clean so they go all the way in. Use blue loc-tite if you wish, since you will never have to remove them.

    I have seen people put those in withtheir fingers and forget them for years. Don't sweat it.
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  5. #5
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    I use an awl or punch for dealing with these - the same tool I use for flaring the inner cable housings after cutting. It's basically like a dull ice pick. Just put it in one of the holes and spin until snug. No big deal, really.

  6. #6
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    Thanks....

    I didn't think it was that big of a deal, but sometimes you never can tell. Thanks for dealing with me and my lack o knowledge.

    Donkey

  7. #7
    Duckin' Fonuts.
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    Don't do that...it is best to remove the extractor caps each time you put the crank on so that you visually line up the splines. It's the best way to ensure you don't ruin the splines by tightening them onto the bb wrong.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nonracerrichie
    Don't do that...it is best to remove the extractor caps each time you put the crank on so that you visually line up the splines. It's the best way to ensure you don't ruin the splines by tightening them onto the bb wrong.
    I must agree and emphasize Nonracer's point. You don't want to ruin the crankarms. I have seen rookie mechanics do just that at a shop I used to work at. An ounce of prevention.......

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