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  1. #1
    USB Rep'n
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    Converting hub to a bolt on...

    I saw some great deals on XT disc hubs with Rhyno Lites at a few onlince retailers but wondered if you can convert those hubs to accept bolt on axles. If so, what all is invloved in that process? I am assuming some of us uses horizontal dropouts with non SS specific rear wheels which is why Im wondering if this is what you did.

    Thanks all,
    Scott
    though hope is frail, it must prevail - Taj Weekes

    betam eh-wud-eh-HA-lehu y
    eh-nay Ityopia!

  2. #2
    34N 118W
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    more info here from a few weeks ago...

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...ghlight=xt+hub

    easy.
    HW


    Quote Originally Posted by namaSSte
    I saw some great deals on XT disc hubs with Rhyno Lites at a few onlince retailers but wondered if you can convert those hubs to accept bolt on axles. If so, what all is invloved in that process? I am assuming some of us uses horizontal dropouts with non SS specific rear wheels which is why Im wondering if this is what you did.

    Thanks all,
    Scott

  3. #3
    USB Rep'n
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hollywood
    more info here from a few weeks ago...

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...ghlight=xt+hub

    easy.
    HW
    Thanks HW, I think this might be the way for me to go. One last question though, what tool do you carry on the trail in the event of a flat? Obviously a socket or adjsutable wrenches makes sense but thats a lot of tool to be carrying around.
    though hope is frail, it must prevail - Taj Weekes

    betam eh-wud-eh-HA-lehu y
    eh-nay Ityopia!

  4. #4
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    If they fit, a Jethro Tule from Surly or a "Peanut Butter" Wrench from Sheldon Brown. If not, get a stubby open/closed wrench from the hardware store.

    Quote Originally Posted by namaSSte
    Thanks HW, I think this might be the way for me to go. One last question though, what tool do you carry on the trail in the event of a flat? Obviously a socket or adjsutable wrenches makes sense but thats a lot of tool to be carrying around.

  5. #5
    USB Rep'n
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drevil
    If they fit, a Jethro Tule from Surly or a "Peanut Butter" Wrench from Sheldon Brown. If not, get a stubby open/closed wrench from the hardware store.
    Thanks D!
    though hope is frail, it must prevail - Taj Weekes

    betam eh-wud-eh-HA-lehu y
    eh-nay Ityopia!

  6. #6
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    I tried to get a solid axle for my LX but had all sorts of trouble....what my LBS did was tap some thread into the ends of the QR axle and screw in some 6mm allen bolts.

    Problem solved. Plus I dont need any extra tools for tyre change - assuming you always carry an allen key...


    Cheers & no beers

  7. #7
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    yiiiiikess.... what a terrible disgusting typo !

    that should have been,

    Cheers & no GEARS

  8. #8
    Ride what you want!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drevil
    If they fit, a Jethro Tule from Surly
    15 mm, and it'll open your beer.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Trogs: Too Tough for Carbon Fiber

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by george_da_trog
    15 mm, and it'll open your beer.
    what more can ya ask for. Hey George, is that quote under your avatar a line from a song? I think the Hoffman bmx game for PS2 has that one on it, freaky tune!
    though hope is frail, it must prevail - Taj Weekes

    betam eh-wud-eh-HA-lehu y
    eh-nay Ityopia!

  10. #10
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    We the people ... LX non disc conversion

    I just converted a mid 90's Shimano LX cassete hub (non disc). IT was laced to a beautiful new halo combat dual rim!

    WEAR GLOVES, COMBAT CHEMICALS ENTRANCE INTO BODY!

    STEP ONE: Unthread a lockring with a 17mm socket or wrench.

    STEP TWO: Take it up to the shop. Have the tech check the new axles threads with the lockring you have. This assures you have the right thread and thickness axle, also, get a long one to fit outside the dropouts of your front/rear wheel. If in doubt, go extra long. Get a solid axle, from now on, a qr skewer won't go through the wheel.

    STEP THREE: Buy the axle, washers, nuts, and make sure to have grease, a cassete lockring remover, chainwhip, two 17mm wrenches. (BE sure your cassette lockring remover is a deepwell socket to fit over your new (solid) axle later, i.e. NO GUIDE PIN)

    STEP FOUR: Remove cog and spacers from cassette. Keep these in order to maintain chainline.(use a chainwhip and remover)

    (DO the next step over a towel, or bearings bounce all over.

    STEP FIVE: Remove seal/dust cap. Loosen lockring, remove cone and washers.

    STEP SIX: Pull the axle out from the drive side. (Removing the cassette lockring shows it's importance now) Remove your cone, seal, washer, and lockring (keep these in order)

    STEP SEVEN: Take bearings out, keep track of them. Clean the hub, re-pack with fresh axle grease.

    STEP EIGHT: Place drive side lockring and cone assembly on new (solid) axle. I put mine on 19 threads deep, counting from the lockring out to the closest end. This depth adjustment varies depending on the amount of axle that should stick out of the dropouts. It should be equal on both sides.

    STEP NINE: Place one half of the clean, dry bearings in the drive side cup (smush into grease). Place the other half into the grease in the non-drive cup.

    STEP TEN: Slide the new axle in from the drive side through. Thread on the non-drive cone, seal, washers and lockring. Make sure you get the order right.

    (optional)STEP ELEVEN: If it doesn't look like the axle is equally protruding from both locknuts, reverse to STEP EIGHT, try again.

    STEP TWELVE: Now that the new wide, solid axle is centered, adjust the hub, don't pit your cups. This will require your cone wrench, and a 17mm wrench.

    STEP THIRTEEN: Replace cog and spacers, you won't need a chainwhip, just the cassete lockring remover, tightening clockwise.

    STEP FOURTEEN: Put the axle in the dropouts, put on your washers and nuts. Use the 17mm wrenches both at one time for best results in tightening.

    STEP FIFTEEN: RIDE HARD AND CONFIDENT, NO SLIPPY QR's, STIFFER, STRONGER, BETTER. unfortunately, flat fixing is like a monkey trying to f**k a football, then again, I usually walk home, a backpack full of pump, food, water, patches and tools is too heavy.

    BRAG ABOUT HOW IT IS STRONGER, OFFERS BETTER PERFORMANCE, IS CHEAPER THAN A Ti QR, AND IS MAYBE A BIT LIGHTER, MAYBE.

  11. #11
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    Quote Originally Posted by namaSSte
    Hey George, is that quote under your avatar a line from a song? I think the Hoffman bmx game for PS2 has that one on it, freaky tune!
    Kiss Off by the Violent Femmes.

  12. #12
    KgB
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    does that really work

    Quote Originally Posted by Bingo
    I tried to get a solid axle for my LX but had all sorts of trouble....what my LBS did was tap some thread into the ends of the QR axle and screw in some 6mm allen bolts.

    Problem solved. Plus I dont need any extra tools for tyre change - assuming you always carry an allen key...
    seems like a good idea but I would be a little wary.
    I've been inside too long.

  13. #13
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    Thanks for all the info guys! I'm going to do this to a Sram hub soon. Just a question for those of you who have done this: how wide was the new axle you put in?

  14. #14
    Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
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    SSkip it.

    i'm running some of those jenson xt/rhynolites on my chameleon, Q/R-stylie with no slippage.

    before you spend a lot of time focking around with it, just try 'em out with Q/R's, though SDizzle is having an a$$load of trouble with his jenson chameleon, my '04 hasn't slipped once.

    this has been a nice week for rides; monday night, wednesday morning and this morning. i'm got over 400 miles on the chameleon so far with no slippage, and i'm graceless, fat (well, heavy at least) and ride on pretty big hills, so...

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