conversion- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: conversion

  1. #1
    I'm 3 ducks in a man suit
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    7

    conversion

    Just contemplating turning my 27 speed (Truvativ Blaze 22/32/44) into a 32-only 9 speed, and I had some questions. Who better to ask than the SS guys?
    I found myself never changing the f. der. out of 2, and decided I could definitely stand to shed some weight and clutter by completely removing the front shifting capabilities. Staying on the 32, I have no problems riding how i want, and I really fancy the simplicity of the whole SS thing (maybe a full conversion is in my future). But, for now, I'd like to find out if I can use this crank for a front SS. Will I be able to remove the inner and outer rings while still keeping the 32? Someone recommended getting a whole new straight tooth SS (DH?) chainring and a bashguard. Will this work with the Blaze crank? Is a bashguard necessary? Any info would be great.
    What are you two doing in my bedroom?

  2. #2
    Baron of Gray Matter
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    616
    If your chainrings are bolted on instead of riveted on then you can easily do the conversion. You'll have to buy new shorter chainring (CR) bolts or use spacers or a bashguard to bolt the 32 on since the old CR bolts are too long to work with only one CR. Bashguards are personal preference. If you go over lots of big roots/logs/rocks, then it can be a big benefit. As long a the CR bolts on you can find another CR designed not to shift to use.

    Welcome to the wide world of SSing.
    "Oh Dear, I've been redorkulated."
    Prof. Frink.

  3. #3
    Crash often, crash stupid
    Reputation: crashmasta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    37

    you will also need

    You will also need a chain guide like this http://tinyurl.com/bqwvf To keep your chain from popping off on the inside of the crank and use a bashguad to keep it from popping off the outside. I learned the hard way. First ride I made it about 20yards went over the first log, chain popped off. The next log... you get the picture.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: upstatesspdr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    140
    I have to disagree about the guide.
    I rarely drop the chain on my SS.With proper chain tension and a non ramped chainring you ought to be fine .
    Ideally your chainring shouldn't touch the log anyway-

  5. #5
    I'm 3 ducks in a man suit
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    7
    Thanks for the info, guys, it helped alot. I checked around some web retailers (now that I understand what I'm looking for) and found some pretty decent options. Thanx again.
    Talk to ya again when I'm 100% SS
    What are you two doing in my bedroom?

  6. #6
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236
    Quote Originally Posted by upstatesspdr
    I have to disagree about the guide.
    I rarely drop the chain on my SS.With proper chain tension and a non ramped chainring you ought to be fine .
    Ideally your chainring shouldn't touch the log anyway-
    This is for a 1x9 setup, not SS. In any case the guides are not always needed. You do need to shorten the chain and a shorter cage derailleur can help (both of which reduce the chance of dropping the chain).
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  7. #7
    I'm 3 ducks in a man suit
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    7
    Have to shorten the chain, eh? I figured the tension spring on the rear der. would keep the chain tight enough, but I guess not, huh?
    My rear der. is a brand new Sram X7 (long cage, of course ) and I'd like to steer away from replacing it if possible.
    I was looking into a single-speed-specific 32t chainring, and a bashguard so I have the added protection (alot of fallen trees throw themselves under my bike all the time ) and so it'll match up with my current chainring bolts. ...This and remove a few links, sound like it'll work?
    What are you two doing in my bedroom?

  8. #8
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236
    No big ring = less chain needed.

    Your current derailleur will be fine.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    338
    I use an old road derailleur on my SS as a tensioner. Very short cage, works great. I have the chain pulled quite tight so there is alot of tension from the derailleur, and no chain slap. I also second the unramped ring. I don't get the chain bouncing off the ring with this setup.

  10. #10
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236
    Quote Originally Posted by hu-man
    I use an old road derailleur on my SS as a tensioner. Very short cage, works great. I have the chain pulled quite tight so there is alot of tension from the derailleur, and no chain slap. I also second the unramped ring. I don't get the chain bouncing off the ring with this setup.
    Once again, even though this is the SS board, this discussion is about a 1x9 setup.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  11. #11
    I'm 3 ducks in a man suit
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    7
    So, to check for proper chain length, I should check where the cage is when the chain is on the 44, and remove enough links to match that, while on the 32, right?
    What are you two doing in my bedroom?

  12. #12
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236
    Quote Originally Posted by laffingbuddha
    So, to check for proper chain length, I should check where the cage is when the chain is on the 44, and remove enough links to match that, while on the 32, right?
    Read this: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

    Basically I run the chain just long enough to be able to shift onto AND off of the largest cog.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  13. #13
    Crash often, crash stupid
    Reputation: crashmasta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    37

    1x9 conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by upstatesspdr
    I have to disagree about the guide.
    I rarely drop the chain on my SS.With proper chain tension and a non ramped chainring you ought to be fine .
    Ideally your chainring shouldn't touch the log anyway-
    1x9, The log itself did not cause the chain to come off. It was the bouncing while hoping it that causes it to pop off. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough. You don't realize how much a front der. help keep the chain on until you remove it

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.