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  1. #1
    AEC
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    Consulting the.... "experts"

    So first off this is my first post.

    Im a long time lurker. like ive been reading over these forums for about a year and a half putting together the bike i believe would be perfect for me. more of a dream bike since i am in college spending all my money on booze and books. it just so happens that i know people who know people that need someone to ride for their new bike shop. thats me. now i get some pretty great deals on bike and such.

    so here is the list. feel free to bash/praise/fix/tell-me-how-smart-i-am/or just state your opinion. but be nice, this is my first time


    * Frame Size & Color:
    Niner One 9

    * Fork:
    Reba Team 29

    * Brakes:
    Hayes Stroker - Cleansweep X

    * Brake Levers:
    Avid SD-SL

    * Cables:
    Included

    * Crankset:
    Fifteen G/The Hive

    * Chainring:
    Fifteen G/The Hive Guidering

    * Bash Ring:
    K-Edge MTB Guard

    * Bottom Bracket:
    Included

    * Pedals:
    Eggbeaters 3

    * Stem:
    Easton EA90

    * Handlebar:
    Easton EC90 XC

    * Seatpost:
    Thomson Masterpiece

    * Saddle:
    Sette Evo Ti

    * Seatpost Clamp:
    Woodman Deathgrip SL Ti

    * Headset:
    Chris King NoThreadSet

    * Chain
    KMC Z410

    * Grips:
    ESI Chunky

    * Front Tire:
    SCHWALBE Racing Ralph 2.4

    * Front Rim:
    Industry 9 SS to Stan's Crest

    * Front Hub/Skewer:
    American Classic CroMo

    * Rear Tire:
    SCHWALBE Racing Ralph 2.25

    * Rear Rim:
    Industry 9 SS to Stan's Crest

    * Rear Hub/Skewer:
    American Classic CroMo

    * Weight: lbs.
    20.5ish


    on the fence about the wheelset

    Now let me have it
    Last edited by AEC; 12-02-2010 at 10:24 AM.

  2. #2
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    i personally would go with a rigid fork, the avid levers that have the speed dial (the SD-7, SD-SL, or SD Ultimate), a thomson stem, SRAM chain, and paul hubs. looks like a pretty solid bike in the works

  3. #3
    AEC
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    I was considering rigid for a while because that is what i have been riding for the past year and a half but it really start hurting after 30 miles, and i like the long rides

    i like the idea of the sd-sl

    why thomson stem and paul hubs? any thoughts on american classic?

    and of course THANKS

  4. #4
    conjoinicorned
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    i like the idea of the sd-sl


    and of course THANKS

    not using the speed dial levers would be plain silly. BB7's were made to run with the SD
    what would rainbow unicorn do?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    I was considering rigid for a while because that is what i have been riding for the past year and a half but it really start hurting after 30 miles, and i like the long rides

    i like the idea of the sd-sl

    why thomson stem and paul hubs? any thoughts on american classic?

    and of course THANKS
    i have a thomson stem and love it. it is so stiff, i'm a decent sized dude and i get almost no flex when really cranking on the handlebars up a hill.

    the paul hubs...also something i have on my bike. i have been nothing but impressed with them. the hubs are so smooth that when you dont have a tire/tube mounted on them, you can spin the wheel in a fork, and EVERY TIME the valve stem hole ends up at the very top.

  6. #6
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    Sounds like you've made some great decisions. Can't wait to see a pic. Meanwhile... what color frame?

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  7. #7
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    sounds good, except you're missing a cog and spacer kit!

    if you get a thomson stem in a 31.8, make sure you torque it to spec. There's been a rash of broken stem caps with those.
    As for the wheels, i'd personally go with dt-swiss, but i know that's more expensive.

    i also agree with getting some speed dial 7's. They do help with adjusting modulation with the bb7's.

  8. #8
    AEC
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    Im leaning towards a raw frame. maybe with red accents?

    ill look into the dt-swiss wheels

    hmmmm wonder who i should get the cog from.......
    Last edited by AEC; 11-30-2010 at 08:25 AM.

  9. #9
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    King makes a solid cog. Rennen makes an uber sexy alloy one. Doesn't last as long as a steel cog though. Personally, I'd go with hyraulic brakes. BB7's are nice, but you can get a set of Elixirs or XT's hydro's pretty cheap. As for wheels, look into NoTubes. www.notubes.com. They have solid SS wheelsets for a good deal, especially if the shop you're getting your deals through is a dealer. Looks like a pretty sweet set-up though.

  10. #10
    AEC
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    i am pretty set on NoTubes crest rims. the bike shop carries I-9 hubs so i was thinking of putting them together. plus they come in cool shiny colors. although i have been debating american classics...

    like the king cog

    Rennen single cog spacer nice?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    i am pretty set on NoTubes crest rims. the bike shop carries I-9 hubs so i was thinking of putting them together. plus they come in cool shiny colors. although i have been debating american classics...

    like the king cog

    Rennen single cog spacer nice?
    personally i'd stay away from the crests, they dont have eyelets, so spoke tension can be a *****. That's alot of stress for a hole in aluminum.

  12. #12
    AEC
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    hmmm i see. so what rim would you recommend?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    personally i'd stay away from the crests, they dont have eyelets, so spoke tension can be a *****. That's alot of stress for a hole in aluminum.

    Although I'm not crest user (would rather have more than a single cavity rim) I've had plenty of wheels built with Stan's non-eyeletted rims and zero issues with nipples pulling through or rims cracking.

    Of all the people I've recommended Stan's rims to, nobody has come back to me complaining. That said, if you aren't planning on going tubeless I would say the world is your oyster.

    I even think SUN Ringle is making a wheelset with Stan's design and eyelets if you're still concerned.
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  14. #14
    conjoinicorned
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    personally i'd stay away from the crests, they dont have eyelets, so spoke tension can be a *****. That's alot of stress for a hole in aluminum.


    after 4 years of personal experience (myself and riding partners) and thousands of anecdotal MTBR experiences, i'd say you have no idea what you're on about.

    i'd go with arches instead of crests, as i don't believe in having the lightest rim possible...but nothing wrong with stans at all
    what would rainbow unicorn do?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    hmmm i see. so what rim would you recommend?
    I should add that I know a lot of people who have been running the Crests and 355's with no issues. It's just that I prefer bullletproof wheels with a small weight penalty (Flow/Arch).
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  16. #16
    AEC
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    ok glad to hear that the Stan's are good to go. and since teamdicky ok'd them i feel content in my decisions so far.....

    well except for the hubs. people say the I-9s are indistructable but i also havent found anything bad about the american classic and dt-swiss 240 hubs

  17. #17
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    DT's are quite easy to rebuild and parts are readily available. I have a set of WTB Laser Disc Lite hubs and I'm pretty sure they have the same internals as the AC's. I had to replace the bearings a few times on them. I also have an AC front hub for my other bike. Uber light and it appears to be dependable. DONT USE THE AC QR! Used mine in a 6hr race last season and it loosened up about 3 times during the event. I'm lucky to be alive. For a SS I like the NoTubes Arch rims too. A little beefier but it'll hold up well, I've been using mine for 2+ seasons. Rennen cogs, not spacers...

  18. #18
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    Match your seatpost and stem. It's just classy.

    Your wheels are fine. Avoid freewheel hubs. It's just unnecessary weight. They have their application. This isn't it.

    I'm 200ish pounds riding Crests. They're fine. I laced them to DT Swiss hubs because they are light and awesome. The rims hold up well because the rear is dishless. It is not difficult at all to get the tension correct. I built them myself.

    I'd get a Cane Creek 110 instead of the King. They're just better. Although now King is using Cane Creek's design since the patent has expired.

  19. #19
    AEC
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    good to know schmucker. when would the king headset have switched over to cane creeks design? 2010?

  20. #20
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    I am very hard on rims and I have had zero issues with my Stans 355s. They have taken a ton of abuse and held up well beyond my expectations. I highly recommend Stans. I would also like to echo what others have said - if you are getting the BB7 brakes then get speed dial levers. Not much sense getting BB5 levers. I would also get the Thomson stem. Sweet looking build - looking forward to some pics!
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  21. #21
    AEC
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    Good to hear more people having success with the light weight Stan's rims.

    And trust me, i will put up some pics asap. but that wont be for another month-ish.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    good to know schmucker. when would the king headset have switched over to cane creeks design? 2010?

    It was brought out around Interbike (so Sept?).

    I'm down with the 110 as well.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    ok glad to hear that the Stan's are good to go. and since teamdicky ok'd them i feel content in my decisions so far.....

    well except for the hubs. people say the I-9s are indistructable but i also havent found anything bad about the american classic and dt-swiss 240 hubs
    I would go I9 or DT Swiss.

    For a stiff wheelset though I'd go with the I9 and their aluminum spokes (not the J-bend hubs).

    Before I get shellacked I should mention that I am sponsored by I9 (and for that matter Cane Creek). You can search the forums for reviews of the I9 wheels.

    The I9's have been the most laterally stiff wheels I've ridden. They are pricey compared to your other options though.

    At one point I went from an I9 wheelset with Flows to an I9 wheelset with 355's (early 2009). I noticed that there was more flex. It was not horrible, but it was there. I've stuck with Arch's and Flow's since.

    I would like to try the Crest, but I've been playing around with my wheels too much as it is.
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  24. #24
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    Go for some XT hydraulics over the BB7s....WAY better if you ride in slop and the self adjusting feature is nice.

    I would also do DT 240s to Arch rims...maybe even Bontrager TLR Mustang rims.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny K
    Go for some XT hydraulics over the BB7s....WAY better if you ride in slop and the self adjusting feature is nice.

    I would also do DT 240s to Arch rims...maybe even Bontrager TLR Mustang rims.

    I'm not a fan of cable actuated either. Seems like they have some die hard fans, but I'll never get it.

    I was afraid of hydros at first. Got a set of Avid mech's. Raced a 24 hour race in horrible mud. Got rid of the mech' asap.

    Learning how to bleed brakes was a no brainer.
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  26. #26
    AEC
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    Quote Originally Posted by teamdicky
    I'm not a fan of cable actuated either. Seems like they have some die hard fans, but I'll never get it.

    I was afraid of hydros at first. Got a set of Avid mech's. Raced a 24 hour race in horrible mud. Got rid of the mech' asap.

    Learning how to bleed brakes was a no brainer.
    Seems i am in the same boat you were once. the hydros kinda scared me but if they make that much of a difference i will have to look into them

    glad i havent bought all the components yet!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    Seems i am in the same boat you were once. the hydros kinda scared me but if they make that much of a difference i will have to look into them

    glad i havent bought all the components yet!

    My thinking was "It's just a cable. I know how to change cables. What happens if my hydro line pops off? What happens if I get brake fluid on my paint/rotors/pads/eyeballs?"

    Since then I have completely disassembled an entire Hayes Mag brake (I no longer have them), and I was amazed how simple they were. I replaced the pistons, seals, and master cylinder all on my own.

    One great thing now is that you have the internet. Loads of good info on how to do it yourself. Not sure about other manufacturers, but Hayes has bleed videos on Youtube.

    Easchy Schmeasy.

    I'm a fan of Hayes. Some people hate them. You will not find one brand that does not have a fair share of lovers and haters.

    Good luck picking one.
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  28. #28
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    If looking at hydros, the one warning with Shimanos would be if using them in cold weather. The mineral oil freezes and renders the brakes useless. If it wasn't for that, I wouldn't use anything else. I love them on my racing bike but I won't put them on any bike that will see temps below the freezing mark. Hopes and Formulas are, IMHO, the next best.
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  29. #29
    AEC
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    The Hayes Stroker series looks pretty sexy!

    Decisions, decisions, decisions.

  30. #30
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    Ditch the KMC chain and get a SRAM PC-850.

  31. #31
    CB2
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    Quote Originally Posted by AEC
    The Hayes Stroker series looks pretty sexy!

    Decisions, decisions, decisions.
    Yes...I was shopping for a handlebar and Stroker Grams were at a clearance price too good to be true (back in August, I think it was less than $100 a wheel at Jenson), so I got a pair. Easiest brakes I have ever set up.

    A few years ago I treated myself to a DT 240 SS hub, and I'm glad I did. Super reliable and easy to service.

    I've ridden Crest rims this year, and inspite of all the visible battle scars, they are still round, true* and air up easily.



    *or easily returned to such

  32. #32
    Oaktown Honkey on Strava
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    Total Opposite

    That build is completely different than I would do ( except I ride SIR 9 ss ). I am big fan of Shimano/Fox/Easton but would kill to ride your bike. The SRAM/Reba/Stans Tubeless would really be a trip to ride. Every time I try new brands it's......Well,....new! Good Luck!

  33. #33
    Oaktown Honkey on Strava
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    Also,

    My single speed weighs 31 lbs.!!!! Ouch!

  34. #34
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    Started with V brakes (xtr), then went to BB7's, then XT M775's, back to BB7's. I would not say that I am a dire hard cable guy. It was simply the circumstances I was in. The BB7's are reliable and I have not had any problems with them but you need to get a good set of cables for them (I'm running Gore's). I loved my XT's but the back one must have got a leak somehow and became very tempermental. I swapped the line, had two different shops try to bleed them since I had no success and the rear one is still squishy. The front one however is SWEEEEET! I have a friend that owns a shop that is going to have a look at them for me and see what he can do. I have heard of a few others with the same issues but for the most part everyone seems to be able to fix theirs with no problems so it must just be me. Never heard about them freezing up. That would suck so on that note I am gladd to be on my BB7's but plan on going to Formula R1's by spring.

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